tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009578741771467642024-03-13T08:08:14.240+01:00Who goes where?Join us on our adventure, to explore our natural world and discover for ourselves the wonder and beauty of our planet!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.comBlogger192125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-41615248148403005882015-08-16T16:09:00.001+02:002015-08-16T16:09:02.070+02:00Galapagos Beneath the Waves<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Galapagos Islands and their surrounding waters form an
Ecuadorian province, a national park, and a biological marine reserve. The islands
are famed for their vast number of endemic species and were studied by Charles
Darwin during the voyage of the Beagle. His observations in the Galapagos
contributed significantly to the inception of his theory of evolution by
natural selection.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We flew from Quito via Guayaquil to Baltra Airport and spent a few
days enjoying the island of Santa Cruz, with its Giant Tortoises, friendly sea
lions, Land Iguanas, Blue Footed Boobies and much more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We then joined the live aboard dive boat Nortada for a week of
diving in the northern islands of the archipelago. The 8-berth boat, with 7
crew, only had four guests that week including us! Our dive buddies for the
week were Felix and Shiling from Singapore who we instantly hit it off with.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our week long cruise took us first to the island of Isabela where
during the night we could see the glow of Wolf Volcano erupting on the northern
tip of the island. Unfortunately the cloud rolled in so no dramatic pictures
were caught, however plumes of steam and smoke could be seen rising high into
the stratosphere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We did three dives during the day at Isabela. The visibility wasn’t
great but we saw plenty of white tip reef sharks, lobsters, snapper, hogfish,
green turtles and even a sea lion came for a quick play.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We got on really well with the crew and our dive buddies. As there
are only 4 of us we invited the crew of 7 to join us for meals in the saloon
rather than eating on the cramped bridge or their quarters. This worked well as
there was good friendly banter between crew and guests, although our guide,
Patricio, had to do a lot of translation. The captain Pietro, Chef Francisco
and barman Jerry spoke a little English but engineer Carlos and deckhands
Aureilio and Pablo spoke only Spanish which forced us to improve our Spanish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once we’d finished our dives the boat set sail for the northern
Galapagos Islands of Wolf and Darwin. It was a very rocky night but we awoke
moored on the south side of Wolf Island. We were surrounded by Red Footed and
Nasca Boobies, Frigate Birds and Swallow Tail Gulls – the only true nocturnal
gull. The occasional lost Pelican and Blue Footed Boobie appeared along with
Fur and Galapagos sea lions on the rocky shore and playing in the water – pure
paradise.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There was a lot of swell and chop, which made getting into the
tenders all kitted up in our scuba gear a tad tricky, but once we had descended
to 10 metres it was pretty calm. Within minutes we saw schooling hammerheads,
along with trevally, pacific sierra, black skipjack and green turtles. On the
second dive we saw bottlenose dolphins but they didn’t want to play. Once we
were out of the water however they accompanied our tender all the way back to
the boat giving us underwater and aerial displays.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our third dive of the day was a wall dive with a number of shallow
caves to explore. We found 3 whitetips resting in a cave, outside were a number
of hammer heads and towards the end a pod of around 25 dolphins came to say
hello, one swam upside down, showing off to us all, and one approached me really
close for a little look!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At the end of the dive we explored a cave (old lava tunnel) in the
rib and swam in its dim waters. At the cave entrance three sea lions joined us
for a play and chew on Felix’s camera! It was wonderful to play and dance with
them under the water, they moved like lightning, twisting and turning showing
off their flexible acrobatic skills!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We spent the next few days diving at Darwin and Wolf islands. Darwin
was a disappointing because of poor visibility but we still saw the odd shark
and plenty of fish. Wolf however always delivered something, hammerheads,
turtles, eagle rays and plenty of sea lions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We returned to Santa Isabela via Bartolome Punta and Roca Cousin to
do some land visits, getting close to the Blue Footed Boobies and Frigate Birds
who, like all Galapagos animals, have little or no fear of people.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A big thank you to Felix and Shiling for their pictures and awesome underwater
videos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was a fantastic week, jam packed with activities and 17 dives,
and one we are looking forward to repeating as soon as we can. The Galapagos
Islands provide a window on time. In a geological sense, the islands are young,
yet they appear ancient. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A collation of clips from our time beneath the waves</span><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6285z90PGRc/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6285z90PGRc?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A Blue Footed Boobie looks as interested in us as we were in him</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vUGOsjcZxgXANmCclE8T4AYxXJPKColO4ImrNZ0PQFJW4ELu6LtQ5ZrfoGz92gJhzO9p80aWASxxdTZRzGxdbDufxVncnMtEHLAF-nhrpb_msdLaOVk3vJRgb76hVcKQ3u3gcIvoejdK/s1600/11236428_10153494992826983_2624305054972563471_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vUGOsjcZxgXANmCclE8T4AYxXJPKColO4ImrNZ0PQFJW4ELu6LtQ5ZrfoGz92gJhzO9p80aWASxxdTZRzGxdbDufxVncnMtEHLAF-nhrpb_msdLaOVk3vJRgb76hVcKQ3u3gcIvoejdK/s400/11236428_10153494992826983_2624305054972563471_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our route took us from the central island of Santa Cruz, along the east coast of Isabela and up to the far North Western islands of Wolf and Darwin</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNrJmMWp7pwd9MAcCTUMnQlh12hvdY2bvNnyw09Bym_QwRO69azOxV2kh75Nm53dfSoDkIQ9LoK-XSEP61k3zkiyjkG9GZS7NuzeAfBzdDQXPp1gIW1JXOHCAfPTecUkUkRn9QDvOyJYo9/s1600/11219161_10153494866381983_3060560201854648239_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNrJmMWp7pwd9MAcCTUMnQlh12hvdY2bvNnyw09Bym_QwRO69azOxV2kh75Nm53dfSoDkIQ9LoK-XSEP61k3zkiyjkG9GZS7NuzeAfBzdDQXPp1gIW1JXOHCAfPTecUkUkRn9QDvOyJYo9/s400/11219161_10153494866381983_3060560201854648239_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunset with Darwin island in the background</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6kXALeEsy6Enn7myLHtmF3rLU9L5OPGLy92k1SwfOmKccMnLb8z24eB4uUUfaVo5mrRCFhyphenhyphenE-yyDpgH4qZb07oLxBvI9RIn492CWH06RUk1Yd6qMw__jNYzkrAExk_1f6wKktcTCVU2J7/s1600/10982202_10153494869601983_6121852537593692136_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6kXALeEsy6Enn7myLHtmF3rLU9L5OPGLy92k1SwfOmKccMnLb8z24eB4uUUfaVo5mrRCFhyphenhyphenE-yyDpgH4qZb07oLxBvI9RIn492CWH06RUk1Yd6qMw__jNYzkrAExk_1f6wKktcTCVU2J7/s400/10982202_10153494869601983_6121852537593692136_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Getting into the tenders is tricky work once your all kitted up. Here we are going for a dive with the Captain Pietro</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC_DcnlBSGIG7qAyJ1MBCqM14vtJLflLNtGVOibSFjq9WRtMpVz85REop3gDisZ_T1094QZ7mYInIcdkeisP2VxS3rThJZigLN0MuCqMEmQ8qxbJj9QAbFy2ksQD0jTjnhSYBPJtFckWji/s1600/11665612_10153494890031983_499406798361815049_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC_DcnlBSGIG7qAyJ1MBCqM14vtJLflLNtGVOibSFjq9WRtMpVz85REop3gDisZ_T1094QZ7mYInIcdkeisP2VxS3rThJZigLN0MuCqMEmQ8qxbJj9QAbFy2ksQD0jTjnhSYBPJtFckWji/s400/11665612_10153494890031983_499406798361815049_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With Felix and Shiling our dive buddies </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMp0vliczB0pHSFsh33Y__lUsO377YMFLlJjN4eNHW25F1r6tuIetvjcB3RlC07u1p7ZGj7znWj_5Q3XgjjYreIViXyZn81iltd5rJ_zkpaEr2g5Xxo8LJuKgdzmHusnpgCAo2hVbwJfK/s1600/11709727_10153494916746983_8690537283541981199_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMp0vliczB0pHSFsh33Y__lUsO377YMFLlJjN4eNHW25F1r6tuIetvjcB3RlC07u1p7ZGj7znWj_5Q3XgjjYreIViXyZn81iltd5rJ_zkpaEr2g5Xxo8LJuKgdzmHusnpgCAo2hVbwJfK/s400/11709727_10153494916746983_8690537283541981199_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtRI3cdCCPd6gkcJRdklmbHw5tTrRIXLs5I0lYoelzeNYvmOxIc5o8J06rKRWA9HXrP9dIRNHrr3xInuJDrE9INGmQ7OA9BxIhPE6BSz8sBz4fzVcI3uA6oqwegHojxEPteyyxFgO7e130/s1600/11745520_10153494993211983_6068822509411057083_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtRI3cdCCPd6gkcJRdklmbHw5tTrRIXLs5I0lYoelzeNYvmOxIc5o8J06rKRWA9HXrP9dIRNHrr3xInuJDrE9INGmQ7OA9BxIhPE6BSz8sBz4fzVcI3uA6oqwegHojxEPteyyxFgO7e130/s400/11745520_10153494993211983_6068822509411057083_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sea lions were pretty obstinate and would have to be persuaded to leave their sunbathing spots on the jetties so we could disembark!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uQZRnbEjNSoFWsxc9jxLEd2bn2BXS6NcAwINMGmemfya5QWEjt5NuhrRFy0BaMvZQdWP9aKl3ZizwA9ikjYoBBuYMZCKOslJqLs6UFUnZO98C4AM_eLoJSwE-JFkLTsPn3BFd_Auic4b/s1600/11745597_10153494897461983_4550457403389900081_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uQZRnbEjNSoFWsxc9jxLEd2bn2BXS6NcAwINMGmemfya5QWEjt5NuhrRFy0BaMvZQdWP9aKl3ZizwA9ikjYoBBuYMZCKOslJqLs6UFUnZO98C4AM_eLoJSwE-JFkLTsPn3BFd_Auic4b/s400/11745597_10153494897461983_4550457403389900081_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Watch out for falling pumice from Wolf Volcano!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83xict03VO_q_wDAhyphenhyphenqfyM0WEAYwZynGuwnY8EH_-3PLaGRuY5yjskfTdjthcBVZAPQ6fG8TRGypn9fgZHhyphenhyphen5ZCC6GHUmZHaxV8_XEIEIu9LRMZMGcnoNWEdF0ny8bs9feI0bJvOrxvHr/s1600/11059877_10153494912241983_9028002324323536342_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83xict03VO_q_wDAhyphenhyphenqfyM0WEAYwZynGuwnY8EH_-3PLaGRuY5yjskfTdjthcBVZAPQ6fG8TRGypn9fgZHhyphenhyphen5ZCC6GHUmZHaxV8_XEIEIu9LRMZMGcnoNWEdF0ny8bs9feI0bJvOrxvHr/s400/11059877_10153494912241983_9028002324323536342_n.jpg" width="237" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Giant tortoises on Santa Cruz migrate each year from the grassy highlands down to the coast to mate and lay their eggs. This can take 6 months for a round trip of around 30 miles!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7JMDP4kueW67bfPlwGAelk1niWodJng7ht4dZoGk_O2aHhfve4tQDFqL20EBqefNy3UflHsldCRf3NxXnLnosKSTlqW2W1vA7epPjRtyhLYVLbAijtBDliAV-MHNqa7u_oy4NHWT8Vq77/s1600/11692800_10153494945601983_7176835564000357085_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7JMDP4kueW67bfPlwGAelk1niWodJng7ht4dZoGk_O2aHhfve4tQDFqL20EBqefNy3UflHsldCRf3NxXnLnosKSTlqW2W1vA7epPjRtyhLYVLbAijtBDliAV-MHNqa7u_oy4NHWT8Vq77/s400/11692800_10153494945601983_7176835564000357085_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Panoramic on Bartolome Punta</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbEI784g9AsM3gEiDUjyvUw3tArR3MM72w_d2j-gQHBFJ11yUrRnTmkPxiknFOV-3ZdWGj-cN244OZkjuPtliW9rfMbLDJd3EmpeYXetRFioJ3Kw9MLdYtRggxQemY06niD9LqevSd2BAr/s1600/11705365_10153494916396983_7241611981659824205_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbEI784g9AsM3gEiDUjyvUw3tArR3MM72w_d2j-gQHBFJ11yUrRnTmkPxiknFOV-3ZdWGj-cN244OZkjuPtliW9rfMbLDJd3EmpeYXetRFioJ3Kw9MLdYtRggxQemY06niD9LqevSd2BAr/s400/11705365_10153494916396983_7241611981659824205_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The crew and guests of the Nortada</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2fSqnYDE9Yq2E9rUkYKp2gdMv_Xwxn9mbMpu1UltQPJz1ExS9156irsKOj7vBlxiFqsr4MEcEwt8Urm2XVxZdOgNXmGQx6FgSGhL9ciuZpUCkkdQWVRBX9IbW29O_6nnaQINpr6LY_0v/s1600/11694932_10153494982371983_1340433936862220140_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2fSqnYDE9Yq2E9rUkYKp2gdMv_Xwxn9mbMpu1UltQPJz1ExS9156irsKOj7vBlxiFqsr4MEcEwt8Urm2XVxZdOgNXmGQx6FgSGhL9ciuZpUCkkdQWVRBX9IbW29O_6nnaQINpr6LY_0v/s400/11694932_10153494982371983_1340433936862220140_n.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-66809429226302063552015-07-15T18:23:00.005+02:002015-07-15T18:23:59.302+02:00Quito<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On our return from the Amazon we got the
chance to explore the capital further. The traffic was still terrible, but
taxis were cheap and the city's settling and architecture is pleasant. The city
centre is full of old Spanish legacies, particularly religious architecture -
superb churches and cathedrals with golden alters, coloured columns, glided
balconies and richly sculptured facades. Annoyingly tourists are required to
pay a fee to enter these churches, which we didn't agree with, so we didn't go
in. The Pope announced that he was to visit Quito on 5 July, which created a
visible Pope fever across the city.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Along with our new friends Jessica and
Jason, we took a trip up Mt. Pinchincha, an active volcano to get a birds eye
view of the once Inca city. Thankfully, a sky tram took us up to the top. From
our vantage point at 4100m we saw the city spreading along the high Andean valley
in a roughly north- south direction. We took lunch together in the Old Town at
San Agustin, a colonial style bakery and restaurant..... I had the ceviche
prawns - raw prawns 'cooked' in lime juice and seasoned with herbs and onions,
absolutely delicious. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Soaking up the afternoon sun in Plaza Grande
was really enjoyable. We were able to watch the passers by; the persistant
street vendors, shoe shiners, ambling police pairs, nuns scurrying past and
groups of school children with sweet snacks after school - the girls in white
pleated skirts with high white socks. We finished off the day with an impromptu
karaoke session- such fun!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">With many museums to choose from on Friday
19th June we visited the former house, now museum, of Maria Augusta Urrutia. We
learned that she was a wealthy lady, part of Quito’s elite, who, following her
husband’s death in her early thirties dedicated the rest of her life to caring
for the street children of Quito.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Her collection of European furniture was
high class and a feast for the eyes. Her bathroom featured two enormous stain
glassed windows and followed an Art Neuvau style. Due to her generous charitable
work she was awarded many national service medals and gifted many Catholic
relics, generally small pieces of bone or hair, carefully presented on a silk
backing and denoting the saints name, encased in a finely decorated metal
frame. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Later
that afternoon we enjoyed walking down the 16th century narrow cobbled streets
of colonial architecture. La Ronda is a recently renewed area consisting of a
small street now lined with artisanal shops and restaurants. Visiting a chocolatier
we received a personal presentation of how chocolate is made from the cocoa
bean to the final product - with samples! The local ceramics were jolly, but we
doubted we would get them home in one piece. We consoled ourselves with some
handmade sorbet, and felt like real tourists wandering the lanes with cornet in
hand. We passed whitewashed walls with red tilled roofs, heavy wooden doors and
peaked inside to see fountained courtyards, with stone pillars propping up the
open galleries, reminiscent of the Moorish styles of North Africa and Southern
Spain.</span><!--EndFragment-->
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><br /></span>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">The view over Quito from the cable car as you ascend </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mt. Pinchincha</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoB66ovv7K7wZLh27iEu9FGsqdTHOxwOyTbjYk1wGtNhh877T6s7L0qgLkCaaAmpi8AgjxLTtOnI1cb83IlP0EENxqlZZ2p1mfVy1vocXcFSxVhkYzttlTj8WjOvyvUTFERCq25ryHA0yp/s1600/quito4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoB66ovv7K7wZLh27iEu9FGsqdTHOxwOyTbjYk1wGtNhh877T6s7L0qgLkCaaAmpi8AgjxLTtOnI1cb83IlP0EENxqlZZ2p1mfVy1vocXcFSxVhkYzttlTj8WjOvyvUTFERCq25ryHA0yp/s400/quito4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Plaza Grande could be taken straight from Southern Spain or North Africa</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbP-C4QPwnkD24M1xlfSSzM-HPRCK4NK6qhBt_Va8OiSnvN8JrFDHdwM94yZKycD31XJxxM9RpdUtoGyYL5524r3kSc4UoctV0Y-RvC1R6ry1HaWX0sZk8fMKJIOFEHW4v21j-4B5cjX_v/s1600/quito2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbP-C4QPwnkD24M1xlfSSzM-HPRCK4NK6qhBt_Va8OiSnvN8JrFDHdwM94yZKycD31XJxxM9RpdUtoGyYL5524r3kSc4UoctV0Y-RvC1R6ry1HaWX0sZk8fMKJIOFEHW4v21j-4B5cjX_v/s400/quito2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqkpLpJ1JCp-dNjywMe79DgpcoANRSuxMFHv3c4IOZ2OJbqJW7fh9mf76fTUe_owUWB-CE1qqO86VosqXE7JYRnjDKudw-_xm24nUJdZ_kUEixR6IwaoRvuuP0cASp8_KjyuMKSm8NbByg/s1600/quito3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqkpLpJ1JCp-dNjywMe79DgpcoANRSuxMFHv3c4IOZ2OJbqJW7fh9mf76fTUe_owUWB-CE1qqO86VosqXE7JYRnjDKudw-_xm24nUJdZ_kUEixR6IwaoRvuuP0cASp8_KjyuMKSm8NbByg/s400/quito3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
La Ronda is a gem, housing fantastic artisan workshops, artists and family run restaurants</div>
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The wonderfully OTT Art Nouveau bathroom of <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Maria Augusta Urrutia (borrowed from internet)</span></div>
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The fabulous Moorish style central courtyard</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip2qLretyHbfHi42IdEq3RqxLURJJmlQOwkImrGT0XxY0qiDPbhsP08xKVtOMTjZCdNgH-I6gtEaVAboRXpvTfBxYQep2GC_6g7Q_vN5Kfl4qCv1bUIZ5QJaDhTkpVzuiY9NMGIk811uQw/s1600/Quito7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip2qLretyHbfHi42IdEq3RqxLURJJmlQOwkImrGT0XxY0qiDPbhsP08xKVtOMTjZCdNgH-I6gtEaVAboRXpvTfBxYQep2GC_6g7Q_vN5Kfl4qCv1bUIZ5QJaDhTkpVzuiY9NMGIk811uQw/s400/Quito7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Opulence abound, in this room she would entertain her most important guests including presidents and travelling dignitaries from all over the world</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-28538510153582295302015-07-13T19:45:00.001+02:002015-07-13T19:45:09.360+02:00Amazon Adventures<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The EcuadorIan Amazon is located in the
eastern side of the country, in an area called <i>El Oriente. </i>We
travelled by bus from Quito for eight hours to the frontier town of Lago
Agrio, (which is 40 miles from the Columbian boarder). This area, like much of
the Ecuadorian Amazon provides the majority of Ecuador's export revenue in the
form of oil. We sat around waiting for the next bus for three hours, watching
the rain.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">From Lago Agrio we took another
bus for a further three hours. The further away we got from town, the more
trees and less agriculture we saw. Occasionally we would see a 'Se Vende' (for
sale) sign on a patch of cleared land, surrounded by recently dug ditches to
reduce water logging. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">At the riverside village of Parador Oriental
a couple of houses lined the concrete slipway. A fat pig was teathered under a
bush, lying in the shady side. I sat down on a makeshift bench next to a local
guy, he got out his phone and played the song that goes 'take my breath away'
from Top Gun. I'm not sure if he played it for me, being an English spoken
song, or he just like the tune. A woman was doing her families clothes wash in
a couple of large buckets on the waters edge, she used powder from two packets
then threw the empty plastic wrappers in the river. A man with a huge belly,
and his tshirt rolled up into a crop top was talking to her. He might have had
a herdener. Another woman was in a canopy area next to the slipway, grilling
plantain and chicken legs on her BBQ. It smelt really good. I figured the oil
workers were here target customers, as the ramp was industrial sized compared
to this sleepy hamlet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Then travelling by boat down the Rio
Aguarico (a tributary of the Amazon) for a further three hours we saw
families living by subsistence farming, reaping coffee beans, cassava, cocoa
and breeding cows and pigs. They had cleared the forest around their stilted
houses. In some areas secondary tree growth had come through. One thing was
evident though, colonisation is increasing. We passed large container-like
boats carrying oil tankers and machinery on the river. Apparently the oil
companies are now undertaking directional drilling, so the drill is orientated
to an oil reserve, and open cast mining (which is more destructive) is
minimised. I didn't easily accept the no-environmental impact line which was
fed to us, I guess old age has made me cynical. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We turned up the Rio Cuyabeno into the
Cuyabeno Reserve. Our fibreglass boat was about 8m in lenght and wide enough to
sit two across, powered by an outboard engine. We were told later that these
long fibreglass boats are now more popular than canoes made of tree trunks.
Here the forest was much thicker, with some green giants still standing. We
were now at an elevation of approximately 210m. Half of an hour later we were
please to finally see our camp, just off the river situated in a lagoon. Our 17
hour transit was over. We were in a group of 13, which were divided into two
groups each with a guide. There were 8 English speaking in our group and 5 in
the Spanish speaking group. We soon got chatting with the other guests and had a very
good time together. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">That night, and each night in the jungle,
the sound of the crickets, grasshoppers and creatures of the night chirping
away was overpowering and yet, comforting. We were miles away from another
habitation and I found the blackness very peaceful. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The water was everywhere. When I previously
thought of the Amazon it would be off one large meandering river cutting
through swathes of forest. Here it was more swamp, that is numerous braids of
rivers threading through the jungle. It was wet under foot. The earthen floor
was less than half a metre thick which meant that a badly placed foot soon sank
into the underlying clay strata. At times we hopped from root to tufted hassock
to prevent being stuck in the quagmire. Did it rain in the rainforest? Why yes,
everyday. The rain was warm and by the end of our trip we just embraced it and
let it coat our bodies, knowing the sun would steam clean us in the next hour.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Home sweet home</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3EGt5uhyphenhyphenRHyFExWOjOnRWdI4-G2pfnHlWkk0stkh8dKRcR7cnudfVCZUWFSUOqBm4OO1_19XHsLf82G4c31Pa4CMID-1ItsR7uybBWqZabUKFiFHAs3TIdoO0_7xGqQGcMhBHtNGJRRLo/s1600/image-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3EGt5uhyphenhyphenRHyFExWOjOnRWdI4-G2pfnHlWkk0stkh8dKRcR7cnudfVCZUWFSUOqBm4OO1_19XHsLf82G4c31Pa4CMID-1ItsR7uybBWqZabUKFiFHAs3TIdoO0_7xGqQGcMhBHtNGJRRLo/s400/image-1.jpeg" width="300" /></span></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Over the five days at the lodge our schedule
generally consisted of a 6am boat ride along the Rio Cuyabeno or own of its
tributaries, followed by three to four hour walk, a second boat trip or walk and
then a night walk. It was a heavy schedule, which we were pleased about. We
took a siesta or sometimes I just sat on the edge of the lagoon watching the
turtles sunbath and the Hoatzin birds (or Stinky Turkeys) poorly balance on
branches across the water. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We did spot a range of animals, and they
were expert (as you might expect) at using the jungle as camouflage. Being
in a reserve we saw wall to wall green. Tall trees lined the riverbanks,
dressed in vines. The creepers and leaniers tie the trees together, forming a
highway for the mammals, reptiles and insects. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Our guide was good identifying birds, which
were often the size of a chaffinch and up a huge tree; "See the branch
next to the branch with the lighter colour leaves, third tree to the right from
the hanging vine". But neithertheless, we did tally up an good list of
fauna, which I've listed below (omitting many of the jungle birds). Each
evening we consulted the (laminated due to the humidity) identification books
with our travelling companions. I made some notes to improve my memory and soon
learnt how to distinguish between a squirrel, saki, howler and woolly
monkey. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Two howler monkeys - for those of you who need assistance</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsd26-1V7cji7EJCfEATnT_3XIKnEwybZN7vrSiTkB66ayC_JlxpXhbXviI-XwZZq8gWCvME5P-qwQuEZRcobAJNwoDKT1B9FEWHeZMt7hyeWZOTLjRe2o2FbkdSEKQaBM56gVXX5DHXb/s1600/DSC_1652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsd26-1V7cji7EJCfEATnT_3XIKnEwybZN7vrSiTkB66ayC_JlxpXhbXviI-XwZZq8gWCvME5P-qwQuEZRcobAJNwoDKT1B9FEWHeZMt7hyeWZOTLjRe2o2FbkdSEKQaBM56gVXX5DHXb/s400/DSC_1652.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">As I mentioned in an earlier post our camera
is bust, and we missed its' zoom function greatly, so I'm afraid we don't have
many animal snaps. We did put out our camera trap at night in three different
locations, and one night, much to our delight, we caught a shot of an nocturnal
animal. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Short video of a Capybara captured by our camera trap - apologies the shot is a little overexposed</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">One day we visited a local house, harvested
some cassava (a tubular) and made pancakes. The whole process was labour
intensive but the end dish, cooked on a clay plate on an open fire in a wooden
house, was plaitible. What stuck in my mind the most was the immaceated pigs
and dogs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">I would have like to have stayed for much
longer because the Amazon is my favourite place in South America (so far that
is!). I really enjoyed the lush scenery, nature, sunshine and humidity. I often
get asked if I would live in any of the places we have visited, and I sure
would think about living here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p>List of fauna spotted (but unfortunately not photographed):</o:p></span></div>
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Plumbeous Kite, Great Black Hawk, White Throated Toucan, Masked Crimson Tanager, Black Headed Vulture, Chestnut Fronted Macaw, Channel Billed Toucan, Yellow Crowned and Orange Cheeked Parrots, Crimson Crested Woodpecker, Black and Yellow Macaw, Swallows, Kingfishers, Parquets, Jay, Stinky Turkey (Hoatzin), Social Fly Catcher, Large Billed Tern, Common Squirrel Monkey, Monk Saki, Red Howler Monkey, Three Toed Sloth, Common Woolly Monkey, Black Mantled Tamarin, Kinkajou, Yellow Handed Titi Monkey, Yellow Spotted Turtled, Fishing Bat, Toads, Frogs, Stick Insects, Tarantulas, Pink River Dolphins, White Faced Capuchin, Tayra, Capybara, Bush Master Snake, Scorpion Spider, Anaconda, Armadillo and probably a few more!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few downloaded images of some of the more unusual animals from the list above:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stinky Turkey</span></div>
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White Throated Toucan</div>
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Kinkajou</div>
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Monk Saki</div>
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Yellow Handed Titi Monkey</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHqjOdCpCSglpzBa53jkDEmA3T4cIhUEDBANPHfV7pSD2zeCk5QVlFB8WNk9nSKDimn-PnDauuQz7XmAP2XPEkRdmjDBc5VE4c9nRwN4Z5p8LJX8XfEhyphenhyphen8Sy4nsFsg_Piw4gPYngKWQwu/s1600/TitiMonkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHqjOdCpCSglpzBa53jkDEmA3T4cIhUEDBANPHfV7pSD2zeCk5QVlFB8WNk9nSKDimn-PnDauuQz7XmAP2XPEkRdmjDBc5VE4c9nRwN4Z5p8LJX8XfEhyphenhyphen8Sy4nsFsg_Piw4gPYngKWQwu/s400/TitiMonkey.jpg" width="353" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-7457428846105288672015-07-10T13:29:00.000+02:002015-07-10T13:29:13.644+02:00All you need is Ecuador<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Ecuador is located on the west coast of South
America, and as it's name alludes too, is smack bang on the Equator. Its
neighbours are Columbia to the north and Peru to the south and east.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> A map just to help you out</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The country can be divided into four
geographical regions. The first geographic region we would visit would be <i>La
Sierra</i>, framed by the majestic Andes, with volcanic peaks topping 20000ft.
Running the length of Ecuador from Columbia to Peru, two volcanic ranges are
separated by the 35 mile wide Central Valley (termed the "Avenue of the
Volcanoes") in which Quito is situated. To the west of the Andes is the
coastal region, <i>La Costa</i>, which is lowland and agricultural area. To the
east is <i>El Oriente</i>, the upper Amazon region with its tropical rain
forests. Finally, separated from the continent by 600 miles of ocean are the <i>Galápagos
Islands</i>, made famous by the observations of Charles Darwin on his 1835 trip
aboard The Beagle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The diversity of these four distinct
regions, and their associated wildlife I'm sure influenced their tourist board
to create its slogan "All you need is Ecuador". It is our intention
to visit each of these distinct geographical areas, if our dwindling funds will
stretch to that, of course. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Travelling north we landed in Quito, the
capital of Ecuador on Monday 8th June 2015. Our flight route took us over the
Andes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> Snow capped volcanic peaks near Quito</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">On leaving Peru Chris was suffering badly
from breathing difficulties and man-flu. We spent the first few days holed up
in our Quito hotel, which was exclusively decorated in an 'Inca' style. The
1940s Inca design, with a lift straight out of 'The Grand Hotel Budapest' was
most quaint. We actually fell in love with the fake stone walls, Inca tributes
and ornaments which would be more at home in an Indiana Jones film. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> A wonderful Inca style fireplace</span></div>
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A hammered bronze effect mural in the lobby</div>
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Even the plasterwork is made to look like carved stone</div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">This temporary grounding did give us the
opportunity to book a trip to the Amazon. One disaster we suffered was the
malfunction of our trustworthy Cannon camera. We found a Cannon specialist but
the findings confirmed our fears, and our faithful friend was consigned to the
bottom of the rucksack. We therefore apologise for the drop in photo quality
henceforth!</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-22442327656286401282015-07-07T03:17:00.000+02:002015-07-07T03:17:10.312+02:00Cusco and the Sacred Valley<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A long and uncomfortable (too hot, too cold, manic driver) overnight
bus journey brought us to Cusco at 7am. We were now at an elevation of 3300m
and our breathing was laboured. We checked into our hostel on the main square.
The room felt damp and unpleasant. We set about familiarising ourselves with
the town. Due to the effects of the altitude we didn't walk too far.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the old town the thickset walls and foundation stonework were
immediately apparent. Much of the neater, rounded blockwork was part of the
original Inca capital that was destroyed and rebuilt by the Spanish in the 15<sup>th</sup>
century.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cusco and the other archaeological sites of the Urubamba Valley
(Ollantautaybo, Runcuracay, Sayacmarca, Phuyupamarca, Huiñay Huayna, Intipucu
etc) bear unique testimony to the Inca civilisation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few days later we took a taxi through the Urubamba (Scared)
Valley, stopping at the town of Pisac, about 35km north east of Cusco. We
visited the Inca citadel, which towered above this sleepy village along cliff-hanging
footpaths. It was built built between the 10th and 11th centuries. We
admired this Inca architecture due to the technique used to build its enormous
walls, palaces and turrets with stone blocks, all done without any type of
cement or adhesive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Water is still channelled through the fully functional irrigation
systems. Furthermore, the terraces that encircle the mountain were very
impressive. When following a hanging footpath we went through a tunnel cut into
the hill, about 15m in length. The site afforded marvellous views of the
valley, and we could hear a children's party in full swing hundreds of metres
below.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the town of Ollantaytambo we saw a temple made of massive
monoliths, and a fortress. What was interesting about this site was that at
some point, for reasons unknown, work mysteriously stopped and the buildings
were never completed. You can see blocks just left lying on the ground, and
trace the ramp and road where along which they travelled from the quarry on the
other site of the valley. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The surrounding valleys have been cultivated continuously for well
over 1,000 years. The farmers still grow potatoes and maize, but now use
chemicals, and like many underdeveloped country's the control and effect of
these substances are poorly understood by the masses. The natural vegetation is
scrubby subtropical region ferns and palms. We spotted many eucalyptus trees,
obviously an invasive species, but how they got here we don't know.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cusco's central Plaza</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3lHArToDp-pzAM4CuOFOWSKTI4df7KSTbELqJ8guD0N-h7AuP8kEYzgY37xosbkUyeg13F0oab-2w8C2c7bstgyN3TPDq2uuFk3sjhB9EFgvh-kgINq7XmQKq6qjHXpgQi4DJDgKaG14/s1600/IMG_2416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3lHArToDp-pzAM4CuOFOWSKTI4df7KSTbELqJ8guD0N-h7AuP8kEYzgY37xosbkUyeg13F0oab-2w8C2c7bstgyN3TPDq2uuFk3sjhB9EFgvh-kgINq7XmQKq6qjHXpgQi4DJDgKaG14/s400/IMG_2416.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Typical colonial style cloisters surround the plaza. Built in the early 1500s on the original foundations of the Inca city</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ucXR4j3qtHyCSN_IzBmnQEDOoSx-FyopAWTt79ddjbu1gNuIBuOSVjEuO0UqEMrT4UAY2SCyvRq28mvht8umN7J0Z6J_lVaqI8m1sfJ-gsVxdEvy9p_S9iEOSExHN04dD7wfP-uSdNVa/s1600/IMG_2417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ucXR4j3qtHyCSN_IzBmnQEDOoSx-FyopAWTt79ddjbu1gNuIBuOSVjEuO0UqEMrT4UAY2SCyvRq28mvht8umN7J0Z6J_lVaqI8m1sfJ-gsVxdEvy9p_S9iEOSExHN04dD7wfP-uSdNVa/s400/IMG_2417.jpg" width="236" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guinea Pig anyone?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmhLx9ftRNdUCVBTus3DoAEg51hX8sIMK_zBLfvPd9VW9SVGmz-VBzc0aeAK4NZfMK_tEKiMaWIGqK5INtdOZiZ2ooKZ4LPSn5uOZCwCKrOYna9gGyX1fLFN1bI0ZV652KauFAD7UIn7h/s1600/IMG_2422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmhLx9ftRNdUCVBTus3DoAEg51hX8sIMK_zBLfvPd9VW9SVGmz-VBzc0aeAK4NZfMK_tEKiMaWIGqK5INtdOZiZ2ooKZ4LPSn5uOZCwCKrOYna9gGyX1fLFN1bI0ZV652KauFAD7UIn7h/s400/IMG_2422.jpg" width="335" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fraser and Sarah out exploring Pisac's ruins</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDpfz-LkRCpDdrMsMXfjncx289qGO6UgW9u8ZQ7CZbzXyrWHjOV0n9zeEVGSSmnCjFa9l_GjMS9SLl8gYKgM4LW0QQi_piSxGMxA9wjbfYAbI8WQme8DyRQahnOg4MXmlRXlPpvEW0zhtj/s1600/IMG_2441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDpfz-LkRCpDdrMsMXfjncx289qGO6UgW9u8ZQ7CZbzXyrWHjOV0n9zeEVGSSmnCjFa9l_GjMS9SLl8gYKgM4LW0QQi_piSxGMxA9wjbfYAbI8WQme8DyRQahnOg4MXmlRXlPpvEW0zhtj/s400/IMG_2441.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The steep terraces of Pisac's fields that supported the Inca fortress</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQ3GzAkDm0Wocz2AOLCWEyY2krorBJRNwG72mxcH_mmSPYABfJ_8RnaE39EUSCqQ-SgfxeQtfcVz5xuc88iHYVUbEWPnOBLZuzV5fWFRjryqb08nvZ2beihBpaDJHYti77lVPUydXGjhyphenhyphen/s1600/IMG_2445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQ3GzAkDm0Wocz2AOLCWEyY2krorBJRNwG72mxcH_mmSPYABfJ_8RnaE39EUSCqQ-SgfxeQtfcVz5xuc88iHYVUbEWPnOBLZuzV5fWFRjryqb08nvZ2beihBpaDJHYti77lVPUydXGjhyphenhyphen/s400/IMG_2445.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sarah tied to the old hinges in the stone doorway</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTFYqMN2InYteqVmeJqn7T6FSGut7rJyPYnV8OLIs6smjDGcKgvD7HDyl1y8DkUZDEPJZzrIr5kyr5ibUKF9u6Ucc7Jq-6t9ZCPq6mNLCtTSynnyuNe3-ETzejB56iAVZ8nyQedtX-Pcd/s1600/IMG_2476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTFYqMN2InYteqVmeJqn7T6FSGut7rJyPYnV8OLIs6smjDGcKgvD7HDyl1y8DkUZDEPJZzrIr5kyr5ibUKF9u6Ucc7Jq-6t9ZCPq6mNLCtTSynnyuNe3-ETzejB56iAVZ8nyQedtX-Pcd/s400/IMG_2476.jpg" width="331" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3XCarZ-qC6qeGCM_Ab3Dueixr-KfQmQPvZjNq_k6Oy_sZMpPWpbQ41__Nsuq2W1SPMMpMivbTRwx3r2mr1IQuv6W3ZCH76MetWCJ0XWjuF9ZJY-b_36YPjiZ-AGmueH-CBGOebc3zwkWX/s1600/IMG_2503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3XCarZ-qC6qeGCM_Ab3Dueixr-KfQmQPvZjNq_k6Oy_sZMpPWpbQ41__Nsuq2W1SPMMpMivbTRwx3r2mr1IQuv6W3ZCH76MetWCJ0XWjuF9ZJY-b_36YPjiZ-AGmueH-CBGOebc3zwkWX/s400/IMG_2503.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beautiful stonework - no mortar required</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit8hPPizB4EwxJhKlzERiintrdIt5UrFgz9IEKmkGKexEZYQyMzz7s1WpEHchLHjj4e2TQguGVZW9XRMCxvoROUWERQLMP5K1NiApkNTcHzIaf3ZwC-tvwoxmp3FgHuD4OAzSu2fupf6lj/s1600/IMG_2508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit8hPPizB4EwxJhKlzERiintrdIt5UrFgz9IEKmkGKexEZYQyMzz7s1WpEHchLHjj4e2TQguGVZW9XRMCxvoROUWERQLMP5K1NiApkNTcHzIaf3ZwC-tvwoxmp3FgHuD4OAzSu2fupf6lj/s320/IMG_2508.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Family outing in Olantaytambo</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQofvu8EBmpn41-5iCM6-1yo1qVFU5LdV-Afkci5KNz6fOZs71nzGLZBQeqV_S8i2DqqgJlxRUOd4VmpwHRJLpWtXjGx_jgKNqIM9FB-8X-hRmtBs_8gpXs-0F0H0bNn4cOUfykvFZ4oKI/s1600/IMG_2881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQofvu8EBmpn41-5iCM6-1yo1qVFU5LdV-Afkci5KNz6fOZs71nzGLZBQeqV_S8i2DqqgJlxRUOd4VmpwHRJLpWtXjGx_jgKNqIM9FB-8X-hRmtBs_8gpXs-0F0H0bNn4cOUfykvFZ4oKI/s400/IMG_2881.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ruins at Olantaytambo overlook the small fortified town</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi938CUKqQuNnzJ5YexO5Y-uB2AEuOdyu1i1WYI8p1qEMOcpGYuLDZMtk0sO7k5ZZLpX73kyMRBFoADBD49XpdX-jfg5KSWDVHW1JMPEcsh7P_8Kv-pPP4qZWT5V7WCkb-5j5UbaNfw3Q_B/s1600/IMG_2898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi938CUKqQuNnzJ5YexO5Y-uB2AEuOdyu1i1WYI8p1qEMOcpGYuLDZMtk0sO7k5ZZLpX73kyMRBFoADBD49XpdX-jfg5KSWDVHW1JMPEcsh7P_8Kv-pPP4qZWT5V7WCkb-5j5UbaNfw3Q_B/s400/IMG_2898.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The prominent bulges on these stones are believed to have been used to help fix the ropes to the stones for moving them from the quarry, on the other side of the valley, to the site. The blocks would then have been ground off once the blocks were in position. As the site was never finished these bumps remain providing clues into the construction methods used.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The straight road on the edge of the fields leads to the quarry where the majority of the large stones came from</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The original aqueducts and channels still function perfectly even 600 years later</span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-57744657525975195582015-07-06T00:02:00.001+02:002015-07-06T00:02:36.807+02:00Quyllur Rit’i Pilgrimage Part 3<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The marching dancers and musicians began to pass our campsite at
2am. We stayed in bed until 4am and then, after a quick breakfast, set off in
pursuit. We soon caught up to the back of the marching column. We were
instructed to switch off our torches, leaving us in near-darkness. We found
ourselves walking along between two lines of ghostly figures (the dancers and
musicians). The musicians had stopped playing and so the only sounds were those
of marching feet and the bells on the costumes of the dancers. It was a strange
ethereal experience.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the sky began to lighten, we reached a great ridge upon which all
of the dancers were arraying themselves. The musicians stood in groups on the
far side of the ridge, where we joined them. The dancers formed a huge line
down the ridgeway, grouped by their geographical origins. This gave us a great
opportunity to see the full variety of dancer costumes. Some of the dancers
carried woollen baby llamas strapped to their lower backs, signifying their
responsibility to nurture their herds. Others carried mini-me’s, dolls wearing
the same dancing costume as the owner. One of the dancers explained that his
doll represented the unborn child his wife is carrying back home. In five
years, the child will be joining him at the main festival campsite and watching
his/her father dance to honour the stars.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other dancers have an authority role and carry whips to keep
everyone in line. Though these get vigorously used as part of some of the
dances, they are not used with any great anger to keep people in line. As a
westerner, you are, at worst, likely to get nudged in the ribs by one as a
prompt that there is a ceremony going on which requires you to remove your hat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unfortunately after several days, which apart from the brief
rainstorms, had been almost completely clear, the sky was now heavily overcast.
It was still possible to determine when the sun rose behind the clouds. The
hubbub of conversation stopped and the dancers and musicians knelt to hail the
rising sun. With the sun in the sky, the dancing ideally would have started,
but there was a desire to wait until the assembly could feel the warming rays
of the sun on their skin. So there was a hiatus as we waited, hoping that the
clouds would part and allow the sun to shine through. This they stubbornly
refused to do. So after half an hour everyone finally lost patience, the
musicians began to play and the dancing began!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was on a completely different scale to anything we’d seen
before. We had watched in delight as small regional groups did their individual
dances, with a range of symbolisms. This time, everyone danced at once in a
huge display which soon encompassed the entire valley. We followed them down
through the valley and up to another ridge where everyone stopped to pray. Then
down into the next valley and up another ridge for another prayer stop. It went
on and on. Finally everyone made their way down to a huge garden party where
the dancers could remove their heavy woollen costumes and consume hot food and
fizzy drinks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We left the performers at this point and set off across country to
meet our bus. At journey's end, we had a final superb lunch courtesy of Mauro.
We ran down to a local petrol station and bought beers for everyone, to reward
our guides and our hard working support team. Before drinking, we each poured a
little beer onto the ground for Pachamama (the Earth Mother). Apparently she
was thirsty too!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tired pilgrims continue their dancing in the early hours</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4X8shX4W4UL43BHZF7RyeUDEZCtOk4TKJSE2_ZTCa-nTl2b_55lnpwWflOZxM-JIAcepHLhRxPKEbs7v3-D5dCuAeiPQsJLScVGrxc9uaAA9QSVwJvB9NFNtsKty8YYxVEGGihE2AyxqE/s1600/IMG_3139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4X8shX4W4UL43BHZF7RyeUDEZCtOk4TKJSE2_ZTCa-nTl2b_55lnpwWflOZxM-JIAcepHLhRxPKEbs7v3-D5dCuAeiPQsJLScVGrxc9uaAA9QSVwJvB9NFNtsKty8YYxVEGGihE2AyxqE/s400/IMG_3139.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="line-height: 16.866666793823242px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kicking off the Quyllur Rit'i 2015 Fashion Parade</span></span></div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The outfits are fantastic</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtiVoftKzjd2WO8rzbnvzjFpZhBgjW-BhRrvitQngN0ULdyr5bWDPdLm4uXmacZN5jSDtcJtTqD4a-UNXyff0JMJb3XMKICGwFatXsMrKWcKhWYZxsOL7DQhyphenhyphenP_fMO7OhdgFk4u-vkkMOv/s1600/IMG_3142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtiVoftKzjd2WO8rzbnvzjFpZhBgjW-BhRrvitQngN0ULdyr5bWDPdLm4uXmacZN5jSDtcJtTqD4a-UNXyff0JMJb3XMKICGwFatXsMrKWcKhWYZxsOL7DQhyphenhyphenP_fMO7OhdgFk4u-vkkMOv/s400/IMG_3142.jpg" width="288" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Erm...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dancers following the ridge line curving away into the distance</span></div>
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<!--StartFragment--><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Accompanied by a "mini-me" for his unborn child</span> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibI-MyBCScZyt_pp2x-17mPYYI5a_-roz8tKFeveVQCtNbKiYpQY1FJaf2-_2jdGfROItLM9E-QD8WLaff8ePU4kLCQCvp2G1x29acVPrWWH44ODZ74yBHM4jqNr7FR8D32bVfg9K11u9s/s1600/IMG_3158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibI-MyBCScZyt_pp2x-17mPYYI5a_-roz8tKFeveVQCtNbKiYpQY1FJaf2-_2jdGfROItLM9E-QD8WLaff8ePU4kLCQCvp2G1x29acVPrWWH44ODZ74yBHM4jqNr7FR8D32bVfg9K11u9s/s400/IMG_3158.jpg" width="267" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Very tired now, waiting for sunrise</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The music continues its relentless beat</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXd8-K-Ege-8ng-79fGT-YX2MdD3JrEJDOu1rTKTGIRa0xHvbkZSIpA3US2qFjNaYBoPJ5halsprc8blMdu9PxXegZ-9PUPBQ93TP7wM9A9V4dBejJ627IaQZLccnFpfcOqdYp07tNfSJK/s1600/IMG_3205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXd8-K-Ege-8ng-79fGT-YX2MdD3JrEJDOu1rTKTGIRa0xHvbkZSIpA3US2qFjNaYBoPJ5halsprc8blMdu9PxXegZ-9PUPBQ93TP7wM9A9V4dBejJ627IaQZLccnFpfcOqdYp07tNfSJK/s400/IMG_3205.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The weave up the hills and down the valleys</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Even taxi was enjoying the show</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The final ridge</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kneeling for prayers as the sun begins to rise</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And then back down the hill towards home for tea and medals</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A well deserved rest at the end of the trail</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-5395998260319412292015-06-26T04:14:00.002+02:002015-06-26T04:14:39.964+02:00Quyllur Rit’i Pilgrimage Part 2<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The music and dancing continued through the night and the bass
drummers were pounding their drums with all their strength as if their lives
depended on it. A lot of them weren’t keeping a steady rhythm any more
(probably as a result of sleep deprivation). Many of the fireworks were more
like artillery shells and made a hell of a noise when they went off. Sleep was
hard to come by. There had been more heavy rain overnight and the ground at the
main Quyllur Rit’I camp, which had been more than boggy before, was a veritable
quagmire now. It was a mixture of mud and faeces (provided by mules, horses and
humans), liquidised with a generous application of urine. We were glad we had
our hiking boots. Most of the old Andean women were heroically wandering around
in sandals. It was a major undertaking not to slip over and fall on your face.
We saw several locals go down but our party all managed to stay upright (though
with a few close shaves).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">This was the day when everyone would finally break camp. Most of the
non-participants would head home, but the musicians and dancers would make the
trek to the valley where the final day worship of the sun would take place.
They would set off late in the day and march through the night, but we got a
head start and set off after breakfast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The trek took around seven hours, ascending and descending through
the mountain passes, with epic vistas containing volcanoes, mountains,
glaciers, valleys, rivers and the odd motorbike! We passed a few way stations
where locals had set up cook tents to support the marching dancers and
musicians later on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">After a long day on the move, with several of the group having to
resort to a ride on our spare mule, “Taxi”, we made it to our new campsite. It
couldn’t have been more of a contrast to the one we’d left that morning. The
sprawling mass of tents, people, animals and cook fires had been replaced with
a field containing only our own tents. We stood gazing awestruck at the night
sky for a while before climbing into our sleeping bags around 8pm. We would be
rising at 4am for the last act of the festival.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">A frosty start to the morning at main camp</span></div>
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The musicians continue undeterred!</div>
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Souvenir alley</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwh5hOguY-l_vfmHLtYTMHvNM5hPPxNBkMPEE3d7ZsWPtgENFBTCwR6v_y9v-ZYVSG0PSWidkQAZRPdfaWydyuPam4YEob0luTV_wPVAZ8S_AmpxvixTO7glc-z5Vn2RDEdVJ8XVJR-D5/s1600/IMG_3054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwh5hOguY-l_vfmHLtYTMHvNM5hPPxNBkMPEE3d7ZsWPtgENFBTCwR6v_y9v-ZYVSG0PSWidkQAZRPdfaWydyuPam4YEob0luTV_wPVAZ8S_AmpxvixTO7glc-z5Vn2RDEdVJ8XVJR-D5/s400/IMG_3054.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Main camp "car park"</div>
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The full extent of main camp as we climb out of the valley</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
A herd of alpacas greet our ascent</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Guest reporter caught on camera at last</div>
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The camp and glaciers from high up the mountain side</div>
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Way-station preparing to greet and refuel the weary dancers and musicians</div>
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"Taxi" and friends</div>
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A more modern approach to the mountainous terrain</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-49455321527605939822015-06-24T22:54:00.002+02:002015-06-24T22:54:19.746+02:00Quyllur Rit’i Pilgrimage Part 1<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guest author Fraser Nicol presents the Quyllur Rit’i Pilgrimage Part 1:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before I get started, many thanks to Chris and Sarah for giving me the opportunity to bring down the quality of this superb travel blog!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was with a heavy heart that I set out on this Andean religious pilgrimage. I didn’t want to leave my friends, but I’d have only been in the way and they were determined that I should enjoy what they could not (and bring back lots of pictures and videos of course!).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few others had dropped out of the trek due to illness, but there were still ten of us in the group, accompanied by two guides (Yosip and Briner). Our bus picked us up from Cusco at 7am and set off through the Sacred Valley. Our first stop was at a traditional Sunday market in the village of Urcos. We were instructed to purchase coca leaves (which could be exchanged with people we met on our trip) and sweets. The sweets were to provide extra sugar in our blood to combat the altitude. Yosip was particularly enthusiastically about this and kept saying, “more candies, more candies!!”. We passed a number of other Sunday markets on our way (a tradition in the region) along with open top lorries filled with locals on their way to the festival. All this was accompanied by an Andean pan pipe album which strangely included Highland Cathedral and the theme music to Last of the Mohicans.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We reached what was described as Base Camp, a sprawling mass of tents and parked vehicles (and horses), which served as the launch pad for the climb up to the main camp up in the mountains. Here we met our support team of six locals with a mule train and a horse, which would accompany us in case someone got sick or couldn’t handle the climb. The horse was affectionately known as “Taxi”. Because it was now lashing it down, we decided to have lunch before the climb to the main camp to give time for the rain to stop. This introduced us to our cook, Mauro. I cannot possibly overstate just how good he was. He produced a variety of dishes over the course of the four days which were worthy of any gourmet chef and all he had to use was a camp stove! I gave serious thought to kidnapping him at the end of the trek and bringing him back to the UK to open a restaurant. Once we had eaten, we started the climb at a slow, steady pace with frequent rest stops to help us cope with the higher altitude.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was Trinity Sunday, the day upon which most people traditionally arrive at the main camp. But not everyone was arriving. More than ten thousand people attend the festival at some point or other and many of them couldn’t get time off work for these most important four days. So as we slowly ascended up the mountain path, we were passed by a steady stream of people descending back into the valley. It turned out that the festival had been going for two weeks already! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The route up to the camp is marked by fourteen decorated crosses, the last of which is situated on the Qullqip’unqu glacier, above the main camp site. Merchants also camp out beside the route, trying to sell their wares, most notably fruit juice sellers, who squeeze the juice from the fruit in presses.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We reached the huge main camp, at around 4,400 metres, just before dark. Thankfully, our support team had comfortably beaten us up there and had pitched our tents. We gratefully piled into the mess tent for ‘happy hour’. This consisted of sitting around and drinking tea and eating popcorn! After dinner we went out to do some night-time exploration of the camp site.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Quyllur Rit’i Festival is a strange mixture of Catholic and indigenous rituals (the latter of which the Catholic Church turns a blind eye to avoid upsetting a significant portion of their South American congregation). Quyllur Rit’i translates as “star snow” and involves worship of the stars, the Christian God and, later on, the sun. It always takes place at the full moon. The form of worship is mostly music and dance. The musicians and dancers come from all over the region and the dancers wear a variety of exotic costumes to show where they are from. Competition to be chosen as a dancer is fierce and being chosen is considered a great honour. Even after sundown we were able to see plenty of the dancers as the music and dancing continues 24/7. As some groups take a break, others leap into action. Some of the dancing takes place near the dancers own tents, but there are also several large staging areas (most importantly in and around the church) where the dancing groups take turns to perform. The music involves bass and snare drums with brass and woodwind instruments carrying the tune. The night time dancing is accompanied by displays of fireworks. This means that the campsite is never quiet and sleep is fitful at best, but the atmosphere is incredible so it’s more than worth it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The second day of our adventure began with ‘tent service’, the festival equivalent of room service. This meant being brought a hot mug of coca tea by the guides while still in our sleeping bags. Yosip was alarmed by the fact that I hadn’t used the sleeping bag liner provided. He assumed that I didn’t know what it was for. After I’d reassured him that I was Scottish and so didn’t consider -10 Celsius to be cold enough to justify using a liner, he re-Christened me “chico calientes” (hot guy) and persistently referred to me this way for the rest of the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After breakfast we attempted the climb up Qullqip’unqu to the glacier, several hundred metres above the campsite. The scenery was glorious and more and more of the glacier was exposed to view as we climbed. We could see plenty of small figures up on the snow. Some of these were dancers who are charged to collect ice from the glacier for the festival. Others were ambitious climbers like us. Unfortunately our ascent was foiled at the foot of the glacier. Some officious bureaucrats had just arrived and were preventing anyone else from ascending it. We settled for wistfully taking pictures of the lucky ones who had got up there in time. The saddest thing of all is that, with the rise in global temperatures, the glacier is melting and, according to experts, has only five years left. We will be one of the last festival groups to see it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mauro surprised us with a magnificent pasta cake for dinner. It even sliced like a proper cake. I'd never even thought to try something that audacious. After dinner we watched the fireworks once more. Some of the locals had gone up the mountainside with torches to spell out "Lucre", the name of their region in Peru. Great way to advertise!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Doing a roaring trade in Coca leaves at Urcos Sunday market</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Base camp even has table football</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Base camp car park</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Asea of blue tarpaulin at base camp</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ascent begins - many are already on their way down</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first of 14 decorated crosses which mark the route</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Freshly squeezed juice for the weary traveller</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The main camp at 4400m</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shall we dance? Multiple teams of colourful dancers perform all day and all night. In the background a group in green are dancing on the far hillside!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRNrDCofmcRdiNKECOeiR7Xj5X3gWdOlyr2AJElRhQ6E5P9giq5w__wjMAgJGCyrl2h193dkPUODPeNIEJkCvifEMjL2NRlP0KBd84JgUQ3-aenSF3dvBwWc4282tTfzrYUXzSmG0WRpvO/s1600/IMG_2972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRNrDCofmcRdiNKECOeiR7Xj5X3gWdOlyr2AJElRhQ6E5P9giq5w__wjMAgJGCyrl2h193dkPUODPeNIEJkCvifEMjL2NRlP0KBd84JgUQ3-aenSF3dvBwWc4282tTfzrYUXzSmG0WRpvO/s400/IMG_2972.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many groups carry a model of a baby lama - this represents fertility and new life</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Qullqip’unqu glacier is the objective for Day 2</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinU-iK6QMl_aJBWowCIkCkA2YqKw16aBCqprqGPr4JVotQzFn-rnfrOWM_4fna7cCR1uKoFwTV4v90aK6IlsjHdmU-Mg2TpkpJT5jOuCZx3KLRPr4QpA-TXF-rZaTOefsBhx_aqwbeXto/s1600/IMG_2985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinU-iK6QMl_aJBWowCIkCkA2YqKw16aBCqprqGPr4JVotQzFn-rnfrOWM_4fna7cCR1uKoFwTV4v90aK6IlsjHdmU-Mg2TpkpJT5jOuCZx3KLRPr4QpA-TXF-rZaTOefsBhx_aqwbeXto/s400/IMG_2985.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You can see hundreds of people up on its snows dancing in the sunshine</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YJgFufkBw33zG5iq-Q8HHn1Ha4V9ruCMKicvDr6efUtU211CFPSgkZYW8Q0qrwHpWu-MKOw42TPw1KpvkpZZ_vFGRWxBw5teDV7YcnxaNiy6yC29XZT2h0u65gRJ70F6tsnwNy8ECUoC/s1600/IMG_2988.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YJgFufkBw33zG5iq-Q8HHn1Ha4V9ruCMKicvDr6efUtU211CFPSgkZYW8Q0qrwHpWu-MKOw42TPw1KpvkpZZ_vFGRWxBw5teDV7YcnxaNiy6yC29XZT2h0u65gRJ70F6tsnwNy8ECUoC/s400/IMG_2988.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unfortunately this is as far as we got, to the ice tongue and its meltwater lake</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAWtw9YtYm4X2p33Ii3QJmVfqvPPRdSw61PVMBxsrsDrkpZSSutuTWWm32ZZEp9nRa3v_cTKQ7npT3z3-t-UhUO5KGcz3-leEjYdUZ9wypzA5pN_0C3ONB81HjWAh4rL77ZXjlMjqrb3RE/s1600/IMG_2991.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAWtw9YtYm4X2p33Ii3QJmVfqvPPRdSw61PVMBxsrsDrkpZSSutuTWWm32ZZEp9nRa3v_cTKQ7npT3z3-t-UhUO5KGcz3-leEjYdUZ9wypzA5pN_0C3ONB81HjWAh4rL77ZXjlMjqrb3RE/s400/IMG_2991.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Looking back towards the main camp in the valley below</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">More and more dancers appear</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Birthday bumps?!</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-30568152387135896142015-06-21T19:32:00.001+02:002015-06-21T19:32:17.868+02:00Magnificent Machupicchu<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Standing 2,430m above sea level, in the midst of tropical cloud forests, in an extraordinarily beautiful setting lies Machupicchu. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Machupicchu was 'rediscovered' in 1911 and has since become one of the worlds foremost tourist destinations. That said, I thought that the site still retained an air of mystery and serenity, as we wandered between the 150 plus buildings, ranging from baths and houses to temples and sanctuaries, it was impossible not to get caught up in the manmade wonder of it all. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">We'd seen pictures of the famous Machupicchu, but what they didn't convey was the stunning landscape that surrounds these ruins. In the midst of tropical mountainous forests on the eastern slopes of the Peruvian Andes, Machupicchu’s walls, terraces, stairways and ramps blend seamlessly into its natural setting. The Urubamba River meanders and forms a turn before getting to Machupicchu mountain which, together with the Huayna (young) Picchu (mountain), comprises a C-shape, facing the Sachapata and Putucusi hills. These mountains form a majestic landscape and an insurmountable barrier at the same time. This was our first glimpse of the upper Amazon basin with its rich diversity of flora and fauna.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Armed with our recently purchased guide books, Fraser took on the role of tour guide and showed us around the site with admirable prowess. Machupicchu stretches over an impressive 5 square miles, featuring more than 3,000 stone steps that link its many different levels. Archaeologists have identified several distinct sectors that together comprise the city, including a farming zone, a residential or schooling neighbourhood, a royal district and a sacred area. Machupicchu’s most distinct and famous structures include the Temple of the Sun and the Intihuatana stone, a sculpted granite rock that is believed to have functioned as a solar clock or calendar. We learnt how this stone was damaged in 2000 when a crane fell on it filming a beer commercial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica;">The site’s finely crafted stonework, terraced fields and sophisticated irrigation system bear witness to the Inca civilisation’s architectural, agricultural and engineering skill level.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Machupicchu is an amazing urban creation from the height of the Inca Empire. Its central buildings demonstrate masonry techniques mastered by the Incas in which granite stones were carved to fit exactly together without the use of mortar. The basic module of the rectangular and gabled kancha (basically a large stone brick) is repeated, varying according to the topography and the required functions. The stone walls have a slight inclination that gives them earthquake-resistant properties. The typical doors, windows and niches are in trapezoidal shape.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Much is speculated regarding the religious significance or utilisation of the site, the real truth is that the reason for its construction has been lost in the mists of time, as it was never discovered and chronicled by the Spanish. It is believed that the entire site was planned in detail before it was built. This urban complex is thought to mimic the shape of a condor. The leader who ordered the construction of the urban complex in this very difficult site was definitely visionary. Its giant walls, terraces and ramps seem as if they have been cut naturally in the continuous rock escarpments. In fact, the buildings are made from the pinnacle on which the site stands. At least the construction workers didn't have to carry too many blocks up the hill, just dig them out of the onsite quarry (without the use of steel and iron chisels) and assemble them perfectly together.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica;">We spent a full day at Machupicchu and took hundreds of photos. The place got quieter as the day went on and it was good to sit down and soak it all up. As the sun set behind the western pinnacles we turned to home, waving goodbye to this stone enigma and feeling somehow enriched at witnessing one of the seven wonders of the World.</span></div>
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The iconic view that has adorned thousands of pictures, postcards and magazine articles truly is a breathtaking site</div>
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The early morning train from Olantaytambo winds its way up the sacred valley</div>
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A short bus ride or a 1.5 hour walk brings you to the infamous ruins. Here we're stood in the terraced fields of the agricultural sector looking towards the city.</div>
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As we arrived the early morning clouds (well it is a cloud forest after all) began to part and reveal a fantastic vista of mountains, forests and ruins</div>
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Standing in the remains of the temple of water</div>
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The Temple of the Sun, set atop a giant boulder displays some of the finest quality blockwork on the whole site</div>
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The main door to the Royal Palace, the holes halfway up the sides and the protruding block at the top formed part of a locking mechanism for the original wooden doors. The trapezoidal shape is standard amongst all doors and windows providing extra ear quake resistance. In addition all walls taper in from the outside providing the same function.</div>
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Impressive mortar-less joins between the blocks, all processed using bronze, copper and stone tools</div>
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Temple of the Sun with the Urubamba river far below</div>
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Much more rough and ready blockwork for the less important buildings and outer walls</div>
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Temple of the 5 niches with a giant alter</div>
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This small stone alter is perfectly aligned north-south, east-west and used as a type of solar clock</div>
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The back side of Machupicchu looking down to the Urubamba river. These terraces were used for herbs and precious crops used in the religious ceremonies</div>
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The boulder in the foreground is a miniature representation of the Machupicchu site with Hayan Picchu mountain in the background</div>
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This is the most sacred part of the Machupicchu site, the alter is known as The Hitching Post of the Sun and is aligned for the summer and winter solstices and the two equinoxes. It is believed it was used for the most important Inca ceremonies</div>
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Niches are found in every building, probably used for candles and offerings</div>
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Looking back towards Machupicchu mountain and the terraced agricultural sector</div>
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The main temple of the site with The Hitching Post of the Sun atop</div>
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Grabbing some chill time and soaking up the atmosphere</div>
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Although you can never be alone in this place</div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Maybe this lama is a reincarnation of an Inca Llama</div>
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<br />
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Or maybe they're just here to trim the grass</div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
The cloud forests truly live up to their name</div>
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The main entrance to the site where the Inca trail finishes</div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
The great gully that separates the agricultural sector from the city is actually an inactive fault line that plunges to the valley floor</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Made it!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-71291607401605638232015-06-20T01:44:00.000+02:002015-06-20T01:44:25.467+02:00Dawn Dancing<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">She looked me straight in the eye. It was
hard to tell which of us was colder. The sun wasn't yet up and a light mist
covered the square. An old voice boomed out over the tannoy and the music
started. The young girl and her friends started to dance around the fountain in
the middle of the square. We were told the dance was called a watiti and
represented a love dance of the native Quechua people. These days it was a
tourist show, the square was already busy with traditionally dressed ladies
setting up their little stalls. I wondered if the dancers enjoyed performing,
or if it was a chore before school. The tempo changed and the dancers twirled
like the whirling dervishes. As the sun peaked into the Colca Canyon this
pretty village seemed to come alive.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">We had stopped in Yanque the night before on
our drive out of the Colca Canyon from Cabanaconde. Fraser was feeling very ill
and rested for the afternoon whilst we explored the local museum. The following
morning the alarm shrieked at 5.15am. We took an incredibly early breakfast so
we could be at the village square by 6am. We brought some woven souvenirs and
did our best to speak in Quecha with the store holders. The church doors were
open, so we took a peek inside. I lit a candle in front of one of the grandiose
Baroque alters and said a prayer for my family and friends. Returning back to
our hostel I found a small yellow bird. I think it had flown into a window. It
looked so perfect and was the same species as we had seen during our walk in
the Canyon. It was very still. I put it in the sun on the top of a wall,
perhaps it would get a second chance.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The old traditions of cranial deformation were practised throughout this area for millennia. These examples we found in the museum at Yanque</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpeR-WmBTT6uxD7c5rfy7HXH5e4yA3fyk_c810oU76uVZNGCLKL-n89TAGDHnSFaACMuSr-IcPXZYjK4Ealsw4V3V6BqcAMKA-GsgtNzxDi5s3q4GaydM_tuiFNGlzLTXaz-ZdqOb00Es/s1600/IMG_2270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpeR-WmBTT6uxD7c5rfy7HXH5e4yA3fyk_c810oU76uVZNGCLKL-n89TAGDHnSFaACMuSr-IcPXZYjK4Ealsw4V3V6BqcAMKA-GsgtNzxDi5s3q4GaydM_tuiFNGlzLTXaz-ZdqOb00Es/s400/IMG_2270.jpg" width="301" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The traditional buildings of Yanque constructed using a mixture of stone and mud brick. Most are still in use although a few are in a sorry state</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVyRv2Uo-zaaydfpfv2XcxPG-4MmPoqFjvFu4pwmiDXldrkHsxhZlO7mxQZzSj4XfdOfr9eHFPADpDiD7Zwqx5RUX24DMkFQgqrfWZzt6wMrxVxxN9AJrCeT9lxDbkoZodUFQsLFOMPoXw/s1600/IMG_2262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVyRv2Uo-zaaydfpfv2XcxPG-4MmPoqFjvFu4pwmiDXldrkHsxhZlO7mxQZzSj4XfdOfr9eHFPADpDiD7Zwqx5RUX24DMkFQgqrfWZzt6wMrxVxxN9AJrCeT9lxDbkoZodUFQsLFOMPoXw/s400/IMG_2262.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wonderful door pillars and lintels look like they have been stollen from previous grand buildings</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtir7eLu0Qr3ta2Abi-7FXkM_O2Bt-01_gNJ5Z6w1lq-r4fhrdPSVv8LZUjO_jRQ9F8fBwmAbdIOJbUaLF3WQzhM7kczKTMu51LheHZSLaJtq_4p9QycHDj45uw8KybkDKATqaTJgE4OrR/s1600/IMG_2279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtir7eLu0Qr3ta2Abi-7FXkM_O2Bt-01_gNJ5Z6w1lq-r4fhrdPSVv8LZUjO_jRQ9F8fBwmAbdIOJbUaLF3WQzhM7kczKTMu51LheHZSLaJtq_4p9QycHDj45uw8KybkDKATqaTJgE4OrR/s400/IMG_2279.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The east face of Yanque's church is ornately carved plaster work dating to the early 1500s</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKNvLV9-OTP04q8PpegHaLNIgx1THIGSVgT68s7Rbh4558e5TAFhi2i65xsUqUGrvPcx7V7tL_jdlgNGD4aiIstCnB0LT9T6hi6TtY_5rr5GwWbwtgxQQTtq8lDi7_TPnHVVbeYS2HYia8/s1600/IMG_2274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKNvLV9-OTP04q8PpegHaLNIgx1THIGSVgT68s7Rbh4558e5TAFhi2i65xsUqUGrvPcx7V7tL_jdlgNGD4aiIstCnB0LT9T6hi6TtY_5rr5GwWbwtgxQQTtq8lDi7_TPnHVVbeYS2HYia8/s400/IMG_2274.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The church towers are build wide and squat as protection from the multiple earthquakes that hit this region</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBh3Srj_QeuuZFASKJIFN3UPTtGLR4y8FV2X4scsdfcnvVAtU9MTI0emO13WZxv5AXobz79EMKaBprJ6JyJu4ruycKo1FENstIjW4Po8QfK6CRBd8tr8TKL3i7bBrISwcLUjtDdxCD-GE5/s1600/IMG_2280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBh3Srj_QeuuZFASKJIFN3UPTtGLR4y8FV2X4scsdfcnvVAtU9MTI0emO13WZxv5AXobz79EMKaBprJ6JyJu4ruycKo1FENstIjW4Po8QfK6CRBd8tr8TKL3i7bBrISwcLUjtDdxCD-GE5/s400/IMG_2280.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I found this bizarre carving in a cafe's courtyard, I have no idea what it is!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsISb7EvV5qtgi7ZNeDVq-HeHPil4ZfB-cB0ucUaAFMJ5gH8c3tLGTYLaAQ9raxLUTbgArPJKBSq8XeXCqqOjoe6X3X-ZE9rdznGHvnrS7uBUf7tn2z8lP8H1QfFtHKF4pV1pptV2uzY06/s1600/IMG_2282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsISb7EvV5qtgi7ZNeDVq-HeHPil4ZfB-cB0ucUaAFMJ5gH8c3tLGTYLaAQ9raxLUTbgArPJKBSq8XeXCqqOjoe6X3X-ZE9rdznGHvnrS7uBUf7tn2z8lP8H1QfFtHKF4pV1pptV2uzY06/s400/IMG_2282.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guess who's the coldest this morning - having a lovely 6am shop in Yanque square</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdbkzWDrZcvP2CiZJ-wTgoqu7Bm5Yh9JatbCRGxkJZOJj4vOJgX2r9hwHzDEECj7kojU60M8ISKOGAR3jGajVAzZ-LJU7zQpBmJRC85KFvrRVIqux8tnjGmoQUmDg-UQ2DgvK15MX9ASh/s1600/IMG_2290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdbkzWDrZcvP2CiZJ-wTgoqu7Bm5Yh9JatbCRGxkJZOJj4vOJgX2r9hwHzDEECj7kojU60M8ISKOGAR3jGajVAzZ-LJU7zQpBmJRC85KFvrRVIqux8tnjGmoQUmDg-UQ2DgvK15MX9ASh/s400/IMG_2290.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sun peaks through the clouds at 6.15</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpZy3R_WiHNSgnI4LEL-EGxXlhsQTzeELIJep_brKyYpcTm5aufOTUJAE1Iso9plxTZDIaaCEIoTZAR1_2SU1BApSWXqu7nsz0qB_emToyXVnH-UKgqFG2QykU2aQVDJf8GgEocfPyN3ig/s1600/IMG_2291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpZy3R_WiHNSgnI4LEL-EGxXlhsQTzeELIJep_brKyYpcTm5aufOTUJAE1Iso9plxTZDIaaCEIoTZAR1_2SU1BApSWXqu7nsz0qB_emToyXVnH-UKgqFG2QykU2aQVDJf8GgEocfPyN3ig/s400/IMG_2291.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I met a lady walking her falcon before work</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKpn4TF6DiZGJmw3HD0dO4KVGgi2mooL3OJz_RQXecd6BpyCDUZPXhigABqawn_BCkGy7zTffJlcfvPkhyphenhyphenvATKs0hRwblWuqZuoHR-APozWOvHJvgoUuSK3uY7Zx9-4nlzTlT3oQvLs2r/s1600/IMG_2296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKpn4TF6DiZGJmw3HD0dO4KVGgi2mooL3OJz_RQXecd6BpyCDUZPXhigABqawn_BCkGy7zTffJlcfvPkhyphenhyphenvATKs0hRwblWuqZuoHR-APozWOvHJvgoUuSK3uY7Zx9-4nlzTlT3oQvLs2r/s400/IMG_2296.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkE4cE1oLIhhOcwVuFONsaupDbSdElURi0LbeYBbDFO6G_lT107Imol9GW2YqN2Z9v1cRjaioJIW4r5gwazkucajojyZ8YS2xA4NeovNaIxNO3glqSpY1ft6eDLBwKzgzyRvlKzgEEUWhS/s1600/IMG_2299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkE4cE1oLIhhOcwVuFONsaupDbSdElURi0LbeYBbDFO6G_lT107Imol9GW2YqN2Z9v1cRjaioJIW4r5gwazkucajojyZ8YS2xA4NeovNaIxNO3glqSpY1ft6eDLBwKzgzyRvlKzgEEUWhS/s400/IMG_2299.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the sunlight approached the square the dancing began, slowly at first but building in momentum as they rotated the fountain</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdbDXyd8o9umkZgj5hVGwm8vYdE1_rIgOJzIquBKlLE9rK2i4ByHH01vhjJA83O7k1MaVT3O2Dhf8qxtBUXQdaPtiR5qQUW2p8cWhbzaCDGLU0110vsxiPeytFdsTH3W5UiGh310YQiLf/s1600/IMG_2327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdbDXyd8o9umkZgj5hVGwm8vYdE1_rIgOJzIquBKlLE9rK2i4ByHH01vhjJA83O7k1MaVT3O2Dhf8qxtBUXQdaPtiR5qQUW2p8cWhbzaCDGLU0110vsxiPeytFdsTH3W5UiGh310YQiLf/s400/IMG_2327.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-80477073497686022842015-06-12T03:11:00.001+02:002015-06-12T03:11:12.467+02:00Descending the Colca Canyon<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cabanaconde, a small farming town on the rim
of the Colca Canyon, seemed stuck in a time warp. The residents all wore
traditional dress, the ladies wore long skirts and jackets with colourful
embroidery. Here people ride mules to work and loads are moved by donkey. Though
some houses were modern, most were still made of mud bricks or stone. Woman
cooked on an open fire and the family pig was tied up in the garden. These were
hardy folk who worked the agricultural terraces by hand. They were very
friendly and we were always greeted in the street. It reminded me of how
village life was in the UK some fifty years ago, with a tip of the hat and a
polite word offered, even to a stranger. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 11.0pt 36.0pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We overnighted in Cabanaconde at some
3,300 meters elevation. Even though we were provided with multiple
blankets we had a chilly night. We awoke somewhat pressed, squashed down
flatter under the weight of the blankets. It was Monday the 25th May, and the
onset of winter was being in this high Andean zone. During winter,
which lasts until September, temperatures often drop below zero at night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We set off on our descent down the
Colca Canyon at about 7.30am. The rising sun had now flooded the valley and
began to warm us, yet the air was still fresh. Leaving the dirt streets of the
village behind and passing the bull ring and football field to our left we
walked out to the canyon rim. We could see the narrow Colca River glinting in
the canyons base some 4km and 1,200 vertical metres below. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We took the less travelled route, which fell
in stages through the terraces before becoming a precipitous zigzagging path. The
hike was tough due to the terrain and thin air. Passing through the terraced
terrain we noticed many of the fields were unused, which have may be due lack
of water or/and the time of year, as the first frosts would soon be upon them.
It is also an indication of the reduction in population in these rural areas as
young people migrate to the cities for work and a “better standard of living”
which in many cases is a sorely misguided move.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The maize harvest was coming to a close.
Fresh maize ('choclo' in Spanish) has bigger kernels and is less sweet than the
sweetcorn we have in the UK. The maize stalks where cut a few inches from the
ground and where left lying to speed up the drying of the ears. We saw women
carrying the maize bundles in a woven material sling on their back. They were
taking them home to husk the ears.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">What is difficult to get over in words was
the sheer extraordinary beauty of this place. I'm very fortunate to have seen
many varied landscapes and yet this imposing canyon must be in my top 5 most
impressive places in the world. I wanted to inhale the sweet meadow scents, sit
down and take it all in. I've never seen a place so imposing. It was almost
impossible to take in the view - from the mesmerising snow-capped peaks,
inactive volcanoes, impressive terraces, the ancient paths carved into the
mountain sides, farming villages clinging on to a crag at 3000m, and far below
the dangerous beauty of the canyon. The scale of this landscape was so vast;
the depth of field and sense of perspective was a visual feast. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">And the best thing was the place was devoid
of tourist, we had this Eden to ourselves. Only once or twice on the breeze we
caught voices from farmers tilling there fields on the other side of the canyon
wall, or heard the faint bray of a donkey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">By the time we reached the canyon floor the
temperature was a sweltering 40 degrees. The heat radiated off the granite
walls and the lack of shade became unbearable. We kept well hydrated and
slapped on more factor 50 sun cream. Crossing the Colca River we joined a dirt
track briefly before turning off onto a small plateau, which was home for a
handful of people. One more descent, river crossing and ascent till we reached
our rustic lodge just above the canyon floor. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That afternoon we relaxed alfresco style in
naturally heated thermal pools before enjoying a meal of fish, caught from the
Colca River just an hour before. Chris snapped some stunning shots of the night
sky and the stars shone so brightly it seemed like the sky was suddenly much
closer. </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our first glimpse of the canyon floor 1300 metres below</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg37FuIfJWEMsqC5AW7SnxNzUcum7VqoupYwx1N5J2QE98GZXFmx8zEYfmiaeEgjOXUfutyG_1PKfXy8zm1F5jy9spTqevP25OkNTEobE6onkBefAv2fEu0CyMaeDavNKW2w2zNjD_ZRdnM/s1600/IMG_1829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg37FuIfJWEMsqC5AW7SnxNzUcum7VqoupYwx1N5J2QE98GZXFmx8zEYfmiaeEgjOXUfutyG_1PKfXy8zm1F5jy9spTqevP25OkNTEobE6onkBefAv2fEu0CyMaeDavNKW2w2zNjD_ZRdnM/s400/IMG_1829.jpg" width="340" /></a></div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ancient terraces still in use and worked by hand</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BO9KbAngvCTGteEKw7acDGSjqTrzwCcSX7DxYRxyS1pZ0LD2mVw-O2NNhmxSfsToCexTHK9QzLAt8j7flRy4Xo48JDWsB2Ac-WG9qBj_1dVD3HxH-H53oFhaOfyXHAPKAGcDKvos1kDa/s1600/IMG_1813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BO9KbAngvCTGteEKw7acDGSjqTrzwCcSX7DxYRxyS1pZ0LD2mVw-O2NNhmxSfsToCexTHK9QzLAt8j7flRy4Xo48JDWsB2Ac-WG9qBj_1dVD3HxH-H53oFhaOfyXHAPKAGcDKvos1kDa/s400/IMG_1813.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Distant villages connected by a new track</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Cabanaconde's fields continue right along the canyon rim</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Feeling the heat already</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Grazing on the fallow fields</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
These little beauties sang to us all day long as we descended the canyon walls</div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
An "air plant" living happily attached to the branch of a bush</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Can you spot Chris in red?</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
A sudden rumble made us look up just in time to witness this landslide further to our right, the rim above is where we walked down from the village</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Halfway!?!</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
The Colca river at the base of the canyon</div>
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A further hour trudge up and down leads us to a tributary of the Colca with a tiny hamlet on a plateau</div>
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A shrine marks our departure from the main track</div>
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At last, made it, and what a welcome - natural hot springs - aaaahhhhhh!</div>
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Definitely worth all the effort to see that unpolluted sky</div>
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Essential breakfast of coca tea</div>
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Don't know what these fruits are but love their shape</div>
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Chris and Fraser recrossing the suspension bridge the next morning</div>
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The little hamlet had come alive with mules, donkeys and their owners</div>
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A farewell look back down at our tiny lodge</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-45134084341212587982015-06-09T22:04:00.000+02:002015-06-09T22:04:13.775+02:00Into the Colca Valley<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Leaving Chivay (3630m) we drove west on
a dirt road following the rim of the Colca Canyon fissure. </span>As we entered the
upper reaches of the Colca Valley terraced fields started to appear, initially
on the lower slopes, but soon they towered above us high up the valley walls. <span lang="EN-US">These manmade terraced fields stacked up like
gigantic staircases on the steep canyon slopes</span>. Pre-dating the Inca civilisation by
nearly 1000 years, they are a masterstroke of early agricultural engineering
and still in use to this day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">They are still tended to by local farmers
who grow crops such as potatoes, barley, beans and quinoa. This region
produces 32 varieties of corn, 12 varieties of beans and 54 of quinoa - I
didn't even know there were so many varieties of corn!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the valley narrowed and the mountain slopes steepened the road
deteriorated and the first condors appeared. Gliding effortlessly on the late
afternoon thermals they soared high above the valley floor looking for carrion
and easy prey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At the end of the road we reached Cabanaconde, a small village with
a pretty plaza and church. The majority of houses were stone or mud brick
construction, the narrow cobbled streets held few cars and the locals were
traditionally dressed. There were only a few places to stay and no more than a
handful of tourists in town. The place felt like it had hardly changed in a
millennium.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fields, terraces, bare hillsides and distant snow capped volcanoes - simply breathtaking</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih1y7_KoBvZSwe_4MG6_fNhJF3d0_Mr5Bpc8tB7xm3ZIl4Ls7SCgceaqVTCeQzTRX7MyevTcVkEAF6zbFfujAiG0IwDeLBSXG6gYB2l7QqT1Mx-_KUgcQUMIZwO3uQVWBQKFbzixJi7VMB/s1600/IMG_1631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih1y7_KoBvZSwe_4MG6_fNhJF3d0_Mr5Bpc8tB7xm3ZIl4Ls7SCgceaqVTCeQzTRX7MyevTcVkEAF6zbFfujAiG0IwDeLBSXG6gYB2l7QqT1Mx-_KUgcQUMIZwO3uQVWBQKFbzixJi7VMB/s400/IMG_1631.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghoxZ-vks-8ZUBA5Vgi2bZ-LiZY2dAijfO9Z_alHSWmPqq9TB_LEg4WcDNmTvJ0pKWTNxycemn6eTyLQsW1as9DSg3AL-Q5HXfKaQQ3QT5gYcO1g7bOm-8-GMXDugdTd7pSJyIKzXKRVe2/s1600/IMG_1633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghoxZ-vks-8ZUBA5Vgi2bZ-LiZY2dAijfO9Z_alHSWmPqq9TB_LEg4WcDNmTvJ0pKWTNxycemn6eTyLQsW1as9DSg3AL-Q5HXfKaQQ3QT5gYcO1g7bOm-8-GMXDugdTd7pSJyIKzXKRVe2/s400/IMG_1633.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A good section of road with tarmac - wahoo!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUO1LklNDnARpcpJlCs8ryV-L_54kphihHatd_kp9FPhgXULAIIroQdhzlTqRYEvDMKf3vQ-r5VjEWTU8xWqDeSYx9AusmbjlCYoDLmmsUOHAG5umcSsPb7-NEfdqlq0rJt5i9qSQqs2q/s1600/IMG_1635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUO1LklNDnARpcpJlCs8ryV-L_54kphihHatd_kp9FPhgXULAIIroQdhzlTqRYEvDMKf3vQ-r5VjEWTU8xWqDeSYx9AusmbjlCYoDLmmsUOHAG5umcSsPb7-NEfdqlq0rJt5i9qSQqs2q/s400/IMG_1635.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A timeless landscape - unchanged in a millennia</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXe3DHdfOK3bVHKsMoghwo9hyphenhyphenXlpwaVgNnCWtpQ9oV-ocPH0vwTILJYNemYs-dVp8XuurV3Lxf3P8JJs-rj3hVTMTuECsvJLZWJzy_-cyNVznfDiHXVI_KtaXrUN-sLDgyvV-GeXCgRBg/s1600/IMG_1686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXe3DHdfOK3bVHKsMoghwo9hyphenhyphenXlpwaVgNnCWtpQ9oV-ocPH0vwTILJYNemYs-dVp8XuurV3Lxf3P8JJs-rj3hVTMTuECsvJLZWJzy_-cyNVznfDiHXVI_KtaXrUN-sLDgyvV-GeXCgRBg/s400/IMG_1686.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ancient terrace systems include their own aqueduct and drainage systems and have been functioning for nearly 2000 years</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gnxCXQ3dw1pU2-6xFJ6qwVaNHAQHpvYcxnWqEscD64u3YwUUv6ATQyhujSuNVqcqdTMFkhGnTTtWLLWETgqILHk1udjtn00SoUkLowZkEKONughTp9UBZTCp7bRjgjL8JiQZA9gyeplU/s1600/IMG_1721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gnxCXQ3dw1pU2-6xFJ6qwVaNHAQHpvYcxnWqEscD64u3YwUUv6ATQyhujSuNVqcqdTMFkhGnTTtWLLWETgqILHk1udjtn00SoUkLowZkEKONughTp9UBZTCp7bRjgjL8JiQZA9gyeplU/s400/IMG_1721.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The condor is a very symbolic bird in this area, to the Inca's it represented heaven, the highest tier of the afterlife</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BMehFlzcB2oUHk-4hirPxNQkEiMq39SOvf7RDVqNWSXCCTqU4SsfHhTBIpRyajGyQY5aSmkmOQ8R1bVVbhs80kAWqZxz_wOvZuZQ5ThtWd-5aOgTzOJDoJMdi1WlPu7eRK1wSmzs5YHs/s1600/IMG_1780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BMehFlzcB2oUHk-4hirPxNQkEiMq39SOvf7RDVqNWSXCCTqU4SsfHhTBIpRyajGyQY5aSmkmOQ8R1bVVbhs80kAWqZxz_wOvZuZQ5ThtWd-5aOgTzOJDoJMdi1WlPu7eRK1wSmzs5YHs/s400/IMG_1780.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The upper reaches of the Colca river</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCBp3SBL1-HiE_y04fDcQQQD-qaYyqrqlULk8iRjkHpKZVcnkdOLoI437XOYOENUjMJxh0Az6FaLIlCpJnhqkYE-z5rxhCIXcr0OLnMC_9OIgbPqiut3Qcj96ceQI9fbLsp0hsWaKGeXRQ/s1600/IMG_2209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCBp3SBL1-HiE_y04fDcQQQD-qaYyqrqlULk8iRjkHpKZVcnkdOLoI437XOYOENUjMJxh0Az6FaLIlCpJnhqkYE-z5rxhCIXcr0OLnMC_9OIgbPqiut3Qcj96ceQI9fbLsp0hsWaKGeXRQ/s400/IMG_2209.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3pf-ozuzYtEMA2xrdbO-rIt8lQeVG2-enHgK5r_n9wiZt_3JEMMIwmleZY4SFNQwbv058ybSQ4NmWBapgsaqN9O_t8ws8cNm2CVXbqfO7LXki7TvIJHYT2QLFUr9wiyO25peha6hh5K9/s1600/IMG_2210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3pf-ozuzYtEMA2xrdbO-rIt8lQeVG2-enHgK5r_n9wiZt_3JEMMIwmleZY4SFNQwbv058ybSQ4NmWBapgsaqN9O_t8ws8cNm2CVXbqfO7LXki7TvIJHYT2QLFUr9wiyO25peha6hh5K9/s400/IMG_2210.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<br />
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</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cabanaconde - the village at the end of the Universe</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvc3GMBHA3kgQQb6X0Iykz4PkOkzXLmvwXqgNXgtmTpmDsegFZJgNcMysziIhqPykBw4vjrRJdRTP-KintdRZOwOzJSW3c6D0DJ3m6Eab1nDHuO5hSLb-bnGazCc7QqKQvzE0qyY3dwGd6/s1600/IMG_1790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvc3GMBHA3kgQQb6X0Iykz4PkOkzXLmvwXqgNXgtmTpmDsegFZJgNcMysziIhqPykBw4vjrRJdRTP-KintdRZOwOzJSW3c6D0DJ3m6Eab1nDHuO5hSLb-bnGazCc7QqKQvzE0qyY3dwGd6/s400/IMG_1790.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The best breakfast view in town</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The kids are out in force this morning marching with the band celebrating something...we never did find out what exactly!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomQC4X2ejsRqk7Fos-WvQKgWgJ1cBRTh-rfIgL3M5Iof9W9uaWfcFsKYG08G8yoU7b6fYJxHPwKlf_ShBnjpVZinQX8iVVhE_mkdZqRKp1DsPyIU7uYEp7GI4EGjOe7aRN0u5lNTaoxi5/s1600/IMG_2101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomQC4X2ejsRqk7Fos-WvQKgWgJ1cBRTh-rfIgL3M5Iof9W9uaWfcFsKYG08G8yoU7b6fYJxHPwKlf_ShBnjpVZinQX8iVVhE_mkdZqRKp1DsPyIU7uYEp7GI4EGjOe7aRN0u5lNTaoxi5/s400/IMG_2101.jpg" width="338" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Its a sleepy kind of place</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJshXSsyIh2vh-yV4_UexQVtqhevp1fHCJyr_GYWYr6Q0927V1Pxg3Tw4NBbgkNFHVl-7e4rDWPBTF3Ye-ZHp-GYkqVtP9usACnv-crp1ab7Nq_HBfQ40gx8D8_mvi9dY5VhF4ucHy2taJ/s1600/IMG_2122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJshXSsyIh2vh-yV4_UexQVtqhevp1fHCJyr_GYWYr6Q0927V1Pxg3Tw4NBbgkNFHVl-7e4rDWPBTF3Ye-ZHp-GYkqVtP9usACnv-crp1ab7Nq_HBfQ40gx8D8_mvi9dY5VhF4ucHy2taJ/s400/IMG_2122.jpg" width="352" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But the locals seem friendly!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEEkc2dipcGT-7qECq2ZlAlTrdJ9NENhcPnhBxEcATfxc1Y1yQCijx3fAAi8w9znXWfCbEuEdVIabLLtSBRV2drwKOFWkY86TLfbnUIfDxSgRzhbByra_BYBWxr8J7M0dFmP8WEWNgwDb/s1600/IMG_2137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEEkc2dipcGT-7qECq2ZlAlTrdJ9NENhcPnhBxEcATfxc1Y1yQCijx3fAAi8w9znXWfCbEuEdVIabLLtSBRV2drwKOFWkY86TLfbnUIfDxSgRzhbByra_BYBWxr8J7M0dFmP8WEWNgwDb/s400/IMG_2137.jpg" width="293" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Its mainly the women who keep the traditional dress and seem to do most of the carrying too</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYw-_a0C-n98AEi1w1NnqkY1bt6CcY5xsmXCAnwS4Uo6gCJx3KuouFMTrIt-YZFFF2lHG88Mx0-TTH_K9RW_hVpaoT44T-n26kPvD47T-q62Y1_zoco84_khtkgBI55WQWbYTQW0_AGje/s1600/IMG_2141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYw-_a0C-n98AEi1w1NnqkY1bt6CcY5xsmXCAnwS4Uo6gCJx3KuouFMTrIt-YZFFF2lHG88Mx0-TTH_K9RW_hVpaoT44T-n26kPvD47T-q62Y1_zoco84_khtkgBI55WQWbYTQW0_AGje/s400/IMG_2141.jpg" width="251" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Along with the mules and donkeys</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYwmkD9dqUFUyDHykcWTM1TJCcidSpfLAFWWSIcgcATnGUICgKml_HODImDJeU3oLvnHXZnFP8geZy6mPQcjAaxJOo0FkrknHlWAGZjjb0rg9yNeD6HuHK-xT7h_eqqEov-Wol0fNxtQby/s1600/IMG_2143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYwmkD9dqUFUyDHykcWTM1TJCcidSpfLAFWWSIcgcATnGUICgKml_HODImDJeU3oLvnHXZnFP8geZy6mPQcjAaxJOo0FkrknHlWAGZjjb0rg9yNeD6HuHK-xT7h_eqqEov-Wol0fNxtQby/s400/IMG_2143.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few of the locals</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7hhHsy89FwHWTL6Cjqcwq7aXsy7gmfYXNaBJ2t7s-nYkJ-K8GyMqdeu0bGFiH4yaAi_IL3e5krqfefOagQMrSuNXREVelSc98vdXP_cpr6H9zP14Pge6l-mQnTOdSbf1yawdhBUB9I9LB/s1600/IMG_2175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7hhHsy89FwHWTL6Cjqcwq7aXsy7gmfYXNaBJ2t7s-nYkJ-K8GyMqdeu0bGFiH4yaAi_IL3e5krqfefOagQMrSuNXREVelSc98vdXP_cpr6H9zP14Pge6l-mQnTOdSbf1yawdhBUB9I9LB/s400/IMG_2175.jpg" width="303" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPUCs3lXAP6lQZpywxUC1yzPnVK9Y1kk88WUGQ7YjI6DxTDmRl62ZWznGxJFpSI1yNKe_tqRLI-I2KuHo6nsHZb-z_Nil1WjqFrGcx6l0MgzJkeMKOTxKUDm2O4hAKjctSZPKMGem7haz/s1600/IMG_2208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPUCs3lXAP6lQZpywxUC1yzPnVK9Y1kk88WUGQ7YjI6DxTDmRl62ZWznGxJFpSI1yNKe_tqRLI-I2KuHo6nsHZb-z_Nil1WjqFrGcx6l0MgzJkeMKOTxKUDm2O4hAKjctSZPKMGem7haz/s400/IMG_2208.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And a traditional Peruvian pizza for dinner!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnv6WAlkyQkAPZRzrOvo8MO3affglkNzxEjh4JoLk80i1P6eK6dDyIOkWMtjmi25Ou24AfgKWIGfw3AZOoJ37pGKbrodWEL7JK5NmhJlqdb862fnqu1DTBqLQBm8mRrx0_ytVn8w_uCUX/s1600/IMG_1785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnv6WAlkyQkAPZRzrOvo8MO3affglkNzxEjh4JoLk80i1P6eK6dDyIOkWMtjmi25Ou24AfgKWIGfw3AZOoJ37pGKbrodWEL7JK5NmhJlqdb862fnqu1DTBqLQBm8mRrx0_ytVn8w_uCUX/s400/IMG_1785.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-25182413514662718042015-06-06T17:41:00.001+02:002015-06-06T17:45:45.688+02:00Crossing the Andean Plateau<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Peru’s second largest city, Arequipa is a mix of beautiful old
colonial architecture, plazas, narrow cobbled streets and cloistered courtyards
surrounded by concrete and illegal settlements as people flock to the city from
the countryside looking for work.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We arrived on the night bus from Nazca at 8am, picked up our hire
car and headed for the nearest exit, away from the car per-fumed smog of the
city. We climbed steadily out of the Arequipa valley and into the high altiplano.
The huge volcano Misti (5822m) stood sentinel over the city as we climbed
higher. Guanacos and vicuna appeared along the roadside, the wild relative from which the
llama and alpaca were bred. The highest point on our route to Colca Canyon was a
nameless pass at 4910m. We got out to stretch our legs and admire the ring of
volcanoes that surrounded us, snow capped giants in excess of 6000m. I noticed
immediately that breathing was much harder as I walked across the car park to
the viewing point, then waves of dizziness hit, but no nausea, which was good
news. Sarah didn’t seem to notice the altitude at all! Once we got back to the
car I waited for the worst of the dizziness to stop before carrying on driving
– how considerate!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We passed numerous herds of alpaca and llama being cared for by
traditionally dressed women and girls. The animals’ ears often adorned with
bright ear markings in luminous pinks and greens.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We stopped for lunch at the town of Chivay, the gateway to the Colca
Valley. Here we experienced our first taste of grilled alpaca and coca tea to
help with the altitude.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our 12 hour bus ride had tired Fraser out although Chris didn't seem to notice</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3IgTHAcz_TmZBZMV2qYVnW78l4NHQglE0dbjUQP1N1BgjuY3J-CLGBD2mOVOYfSqj0pZ7-e_QA7FOcp3E3zqH4Cc9otrqIaRupF34gCwlfxSgm-GSBoDJr_66irOVpFWQtZsHs90FmWO7/s1600/IMG_1445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3IgTHAcz_TmZBZMV2qYVnW78l4NHQglE0dbjUQP1N1BgjuY3J-CLGBD2mOVOYfSqj0pZ7-e_QA7FOcp3E3zqH4Cc9otrqIaRupF34gCwlfxSgm-GSBoDJr_66irOVpFWQtZsHs90FmWO7/s400/IMG_1445.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing out of the city, it was nice to see traditional lawnmowers still in use by the council</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHIPKEO9FFJT9kB6ltphoIfYAGXuFugusWmLpstXLCaV4kzPmMsblWw7VoH27nDwIZTKA2HcPkeBA4MNw25nijkXYlpuhAmeEQxJL2htlnMzc90CmBQ6MMNl7x6PQ-4BVVUG0G6_ws6amh/s1600/IMG_1467.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHIPKEO9FFJT9kB6ltphoIfYAGXuFugusWmLpstXLCaV4kzPmMsblWw7VoH27nDwIZTKA2HcPkeBA4MNw25nijkXYlpuhAmeEQxJL2htlnMzc90CmBQ6MMNl7x6PQ-4BVVUG0G6_ws6amh/s400/IMG_1467.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Giant volcanoes everywhere you look</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8W0DTK2xvZw29ZtVQ7Yl2JlBBx5HlSqqKXrA4CC6SFeZ-QuwrIaCB9Np0hN60Yxsiks90c8pu1FNGmuJMRgHYP-iFfbCNUIAjScldOksTfot2RynzeN0qKrxpUOH0fY3k8Tn_ZpVELRe/s1600/IMG_1478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8W0DTK2xvZw29ZtVQ7Yl2JlBBx5HlSqqKXrA4CC6SFeZ-QuwrIaCB9Np0hN60Yxsiks90c8pu1FNGmuJMRgHYP-iFfbCNUIAjScldOksTfot2RynzeN0qKrxpUOH0fY3k8Tn_ZpVELRe/s400/IMG_1478.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reaching the high altiplano at around 4000m</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwOtbQzODi_Nisu3Aw6C-b2JKKeg6sjR6JQ9ueNSNqLnLhRw0xS0I8DtZfyYSIcAUiNOAbIgLFIk70_ngw6fYLSco-kW0qWGdZR97V7bZOszVP-iRhpMO_5-S71UnbPQjdyG9y2ERqYBMG/s1600/IMG_1498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwOtbQzODi_Nisu3Aw6C-b2JKKeg6sjR6JQ9ueNSNqLnLhRw0xS0I8DtZfyYSIcAUiNOAbIgLFIk70_ngw6fYLSco-kW0qWGdZR97V7bZOszVP-iRhpMO_5-S71UnbPQjdyG9y2ERqYBMG/s400/IMG_1498.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirBPi1cAQFR3lExs8-7v1_QZp16cNlvHb5nOD46DExAqE3QNyr6oltS9qmy8oh7vA5MbQpvrZWzTHBhbHrsul8MwBgcqZydKu5j-f_dn2GlWS5pnJ4G65XRohPDX2BfHuaoorX3IfbyQDs/s1600/IMG_1506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirBPi1cAQFR3lExs8-7v1_QZp16cNlvHb5nOD46DExAqE3QNyr6oltS9qmy8oh7vA5MbQpvrZWzTHBhbHrsul8MwBgcqZydKu5j-f_dn2GlWS5pnJ4G65XRohPDX2BfHuaoorX3IfbyQDs/s400/IMG_1506.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Distances seem vast over this huge high plateau</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ZGIYmte4QGPiYyc37Qrp-vp2gq3nmhJHaCeKM5dUCfkChQ0zIVrrwEx130YgrLZnroEPozgTUuIzrtWJe8bufG4BPdpSahIugJ4AqCz8cRWGA1yUeA7UvXT8ieGqfajviOiCQFg_GSCo/s1600/IMG_1523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ZGIYmte4QGPiYyc37Qrp-vp2gq3nmhJHaCeKM5dUCfkChQ0zIVrrwEx130YgrLZnroEPozgTUuIzrtWJe8bufG4BPdpSahIugJ4AqCz8cRWGA1yUeA7UvXT8ieGqfajviOiCQFg_GSCo/s400/IMG_1523.jpg" width="303" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A wild vicuna, similar to the guanaco but much daintier</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4sn5zIYhDYc3TI1NPe93epVvqNXrlzrMcxZaB2zfrexnaFhzPCxHJSQGtvvstLuBAARKWn8p_I6ViXxkiUMX1HX4SaY7eoARKRVJY8n65zd5pgL3YPsqNRRcpWHLsYKEvnOxBNROriIrR/s1600/IMG_1559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4sn5zIYhDYc3TI1NPe93epVvqNXrlzrMcxZaB2zfrexnaFhzPCxHJSQGtvvstLuBAARKWn8p_I6ViXxkiUMX1HX4SaY7eoARKRVJY8n65zd5pgL3YPsqNRRcpWHLsYKEvnOxBNROriIrR/s400/IMG_1559.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A beautifully dressed herd of llama by the roadside</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Ready for a night out girly?"</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI9XpHPkci0XRaTKRbH62yuDpMkBtg0pGsL4CrLpXDolaCIzbxQ5BoyySfw9jwCvHmgOBptTOIwFVXtnl0EaO1KQHbSYW-e3z8DJ_Xz09_aRZqczGSvtDPULYvselzx_-L4kgPK35PPeDx/s1600/IMG_1579.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI9XpHPkci0XRaTKRbH62yuDpMkBtg0pGsL4CrLpXDolaCIzbxQ5BoyySfw9jwCvHmgOBptTOIwFVXtnl0EaO1KQHbSYW-e3z8DJ_Xz09_aRZqczGSvtDPULYvselzx_-L4kgPK35PPeDx/s400/IMG_1579.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The smoking volcano Hucica Huaka 6225m as viewed from our high pass</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJ8NHsYWCoEK_rJTcQWU7cpLHCmKAZ7Tn48imJ7ixJbsbGRX8aHYzPeB-VmN2CAWdMTQ2UrweAruqHDjIqET-LyBjaNHj3MAC8T1ozmjpe4jdcCyVUrkif9B3xgEnZmqxOqqSaKpKasAi/s1600/IMG_1582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJ8NHsYWCoEK_rJTcQWU7cpLHCmKAZ7Tn48imJ7ixJbsbGRX8aHYzPeB-VmN2CAWdMTQ2UrweAruqHDjIqET-LyBjaNHj3MAC8T1ozmjpe4jdcCyVUrkif9B3xgEnZmqxOqqSaKpKasAi/s400/IMG_1582.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Feeling a bit dizzy, 2000m to 5000m in one and half hours can do that to you!</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The town of Chivay nestled in its green fertile valley at 3633m</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVw2YIiv-rapwmYX9R_svl1vpGaAsyyj2ftDkN5cxm-3ZKbIVBnANDibR7Rk-_mzSF8HALu41L0g0x7qdlN70_hj2cJ1BgQiXtuN3jEZwhw1tTQSD_z_We5wuI3NxniZcyfFTxqDJ57I0/s1600/IMG_1607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVw2YIiv-rapwmYX9R_svl1vpGaAsyyj2ftDkN5cxm-3ZKbIVBnANDibR7Rk-_mzSF8HALu41L0g0x7qdlN70_hj2cJ1BgQiXtuN3jEZwhw1tTQSD_z_We5wuI3NxniZcyfFTxqDJ57I0/s400/IMG_1607.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most of the women still wear traditional dress</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVdjHRlabJsbA322wcacUMYHAfo2guBnWIpyPHSD-mcQvxRsquEoKg_qlqRnLiAXRohnc8wea7lJ14uEIkoO3XFtky62wsgtWwKxhfWr6hZw0SCuLJZoIG-30gwIiVu_A_1fQCEPYBm03V/s1600/IMG_1609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVdjHRlabJsbA322wcacUMYHAfo2guBnWIpyPHSD-mcQvxRsquEoKg_qlqRnLiAXRohnc8wea7lJ14uEIkoO3XFtky62wsgtWwKxhfWr6hZw0SCuLJZoIG-30gwIiVu_A_1fQCEPYBm03V/s400/IMG_1609.jpg" width="275" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf_2RcB5-C1j4ztdn5zGFfZtiYh9ASK2-Eqo7ud41ok5aAK8GgKKaXJcPH4v3oCfbAdVxsdUn14c4EPhzY6V_DLd0u1w3s1kXyNWiE4wY3YQEVUeovmSY1CeqQyh3UBUcnxrXJI7Aa9qJ0/s1600/IMG_2134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf_2RcB5-C1j4ztdn5zGFfZtiYh9ASK2-Eqo7ud41ok5aAK8GgKKaXJcPH4v3oCfbAdVxsdUn14c4EPhzY6V_DLd0u1w3s1kXyNWiE4wY3YQEVUeovmSY1CeqQyh3UBUcnxrXJI7Aa9qJ0/s400/IMG_2134.jpg" width="317" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The <span lang="EN-US">Church</span><span lang="EN-US"> of our Lady of the Assumption in Chivay's central plaza</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Interesting waymarker!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Why did the alpacas and llamas cross the road?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To have a nice dust bath to start the day</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-23471753348593158372015-06-06T01:32:00.001+02:002015-06-06T01:32:25.458+02:00Nazca Sands<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Nazca civilisation flourished between 100 and 600 AD.
Responsible for the majority of the famous geoglyphys carved out of the desert
the culture also managed to carve out an existence in this inhospitable
environment. With so little rain falling in the region, sometimes only a few
hours a year, the rivers often only ran for a few months of the year. They
built huge networks of aquaducts to channel spring water and seasonal river
waters to fields and urban areas. These aquaducts were constructed using a dry stone
wall technique to allow for movement during earthquakes. The access points to the
aquaducts were terraced to prevent any stone collapse from blocking the flow of
water as any rock fall would be held up by the terrace below. The construction
of these aquaducts was so robust that not only are they still standing, they
are still fully operational and used by the farmers of the Nazca valley to this
day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">10 km outside the city of Nazca is the archaeological site of
Cahuachi. Discovered in 1922 it is believed to be one of the largest ceremonial
and burial sites in the world covering an area of around 20 square km.
Initially resembling a series of mounds in the middle of the desert, once the
layers of sand were removed by archaeologists from some of the mounds, adobe
structures were found resembling a stepped pyramid-like structure. There are
over 40 of them spread throughout this area and were believed to be used for
ceremonial purposes including animal and perhaps human sacrifice. People never
lived here permanently, instead it is believed to be a site of pilgrimage from
the surrounding Nazca towns and villages. The pyramids themselves do not
contain tombs like those in Egypt but smaller tombs have been found in the area
in addition to the thousands of burials that cover the landscape. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Unfortunately grave robbing is common here, the graves are not
protected by law or a physical presence. As you drive for mile after mile
through the desert around Cahuachi, sun-bleached bones dot the sandy surface.
We stopped at a highly concentrated area of bones with signs of fresh digging.
Some of the bones here were not yet bleached by the sun and had only recently
been exposed. Scraps of skin, hair and clothing was still visible, perfectly
preserved in the dry sandy grave for nearly 2000 years. Now just tossed aside
by the robbers as they look for any grave goods such as pottery and jewellery
which they can sell on the black market. It was a gruesome sight!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Onwards and upwards we drove in our dune buggy, leaving the dried up
rocky river valleys behind and up into the giant sand dunes, hundred of metres
high. As the sun began to drop, the temperatures eased and the vibrant colours
of the desert burst forth in the dimming light. A perfect time and place to
strap on a sandboard and go plummeting down the slopes under the setting sun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">“That day makes it into the top 5 ever!” exclaimed Fraser.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our transport for the afternoon...."shotgun"!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LPWJ8alhw3O_GzB3MZU8k6F1pW983FGgRPzBz4lDTzxnKLQooJOYmtXfld2MSTit9v8B2UN_ItUfKnk7gOzDTTL8pXKOHMBC1isGbHF11J_Yifve5YhDmMZaAQXO1IAR35OXTnkY0ztb/s1600/IMG_0913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gEDQaW49tjTI0-lHEh8oB5cOgSabr1IFkULOJA_i6OY7mFzwc-v55bqRVXhSDbsGJ7tgv-gTmoU2f5tzEeOJQqP0w25AOiv5ZkGseWXfJ3JYIOoL05A1qPfJ573Ms2vmO6_sVcNpGipx/s1600/IMG_1185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gEDQaW49tjTI0-lHEh8oB5cOgSabr1IFkULOJA_i6OY7mFzwc-v55bqRVXhSDbsGJ7tgv-gTmoU2f5tzEeOJQqP0w25AOiv5ZkGseWXfJ3JYIOoL05A1qPfJ573Ms2vmO6_sVcNpGipx/s400/IMG_1185.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Hold tight, scream if you wanna go faster!"</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhT24CwWUWgEMbqGqSbDkEhA3JsAsKHia8EJ45p37iwnyqQ5lQDxqgZjZOeoqk-tULEzQdL6IUuXqze_usz5gJQB6bueLpve5yYK-4L0M264miA1z1z8VyTJSgLxTG13-A5ZrMm5EIV3O/s1600/IMG_1158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhT24CwWUWgEMbqGqSbDkEhA3JsAsKHia8EJ45p37iwnyqQ5lQDxqgZjZOeoqk-tULEzQdL6IUuXqze_usz5gJQB6bueLpve5yYK-4L0M264miA1z1z8VyTJSgLxTG13-A5ZrMm5EIV3O/s400/IMG_1158.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The terraced access to one of the ancient aqueducts</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfl35ujUM6Zxjxiftq5ppoEpAoBscdkVObVyIcrBQmjjZHlriiUhLbUXruU614aTr66935pl89Za0LtPE5Gi9tRqs-01HUdcraYYe9iAnxvmQNyEenVL2TvE5tZez9KRHtEYvNS2SYMltU/s1600/IMG_1177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfl35ujUM6Zxjxiftq5ppoEpAoBscdkVObVyIcrBQmjjZHlriiUhLbUXruU614aTr66935pl89Za0LtPE5Gi9tRqs-01HUdcraYYe9iAnxvmQNyEenVL2TvE5tZez9KRHtEYvNS2SYMltU/s400/IMG_1177.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9yAX9T8XWuNkoEBMMJFJEDElJydOUUD979cJL2HOjiDvRQ7m71k1R_A4_-zBHAkfjOEHfKA1QLG4oXtqQ1EfZMgp-PhXbKeYxryOZtYgHKGly765Mxrk_tMo24lFch3hxrkmNyAhNoTM/s1600/IMG_1181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9yAX9T8XWuNkoEBMMJFJEDElJydOUUD979cJL2HOjiDvRQ7m71k1R_A4_-zBHAkfjOEHfKA1QLG4oXtqQ1EfZMgp-PhXbKeYxryOZtYgHKGly765Mxrk_tMo24lFch3hxrkmNyAhNoTM/s400/IMG_1181.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cactus are grown for their fruit and a strange bi-product....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">...this little beetle (cochineal) was traditionally used by women to dye clothes (the red colour carmine) and even as rouge and lipstick. Peru is the largest exporter in the world of this organic dye as health fears over modern synthetic red dyes means it has returned to popularity.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A lush oases sits amongst barren, dry fields, heavily reliant on the aqueduct systems</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The large pyramid at Cahuachi "we've made it!"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These skulls in the museum at Yanque show signs of trepanation - where the skin is peeled back, a hole is bored into the skull and the skin is sewn back into place. In many cultures it is believed to purify the soul, release evil spirits and improve consciousness. Perhaps these activities would be undertaken at Cahuachi?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Piles of bones and broken artefacts abandoned by Cahuachi grave robbers litter the sands</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Time to leave the dead behind and seek some thrills</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climbing higher and higher into the mountainous dunes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the sun drops the colours swirl and change</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This slope looks too good to ignore!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQqN_EPk_5PlJsZrfg9Dw09N9z85QAuzpar42YZGocGTOdtL9jeEt8Yi_82NFItzQeMZ8wMhCZ_1KVK3KdhPFvuCyXTxfGcIWY8wVvr47V7_BKCb_jRLkbIo5o9Rd6JUWoesLEMY5fIHS/s1600/IMG_1373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQqN_EPk_5PlJsZrfg9Dw09N9z85QAuzpar42YZGocGTOdtL9jeEt8Yi_82NFItzQeMZ8wMhCZ_1KVK3KdhPFvuCyXTxfGcIWY8wVvr47V7_BKCb_jRLkbIo5o9Rd6JUWoesLEMY5fIHS/s400/IMG_1373.jpg" width="358" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Sand X-Games is here</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDREv3D1gc5kdzN_VRXWdU0Gq1Q3JSetcjA0UEhYigqgO0e_6w3colqjVD2SeCGNhWo1vO1mMtViqZGblV16EHcs99FgQgtpwdEXSh9hV7R9jt12_AFdvtbpXtokPavfKdKLoD0-upkAM/s1600/IMG_1377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDREv3D1gc5kdzN_VRXWdU0Gq1Q3JSetcjA0UEhYigqgO0e_6w3colqjVD2SeCGNhWo1vO1mMtViqZGblV16EHcs99FgQgtpwdEXSh9hV7R9jt12_AFdvtbpXtokPavfKdKLoD0-upkAM/s400/IMG_1377.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thats not how you do it!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Much better</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJ9azYu7DHkC2EjTlEloJGiIanQHY1m664YOValheliRP7kavu9SLTKzLWbYObK01sY5G8io1VC-UctDPyIlGlRSqU9GZTVhYVu9jW3rOT9-Oc11JJCOAjVvI94QPaDNYkP3s9N9Er39f/s1600/IMG_1404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJ9azYu7DHkC2EjTlEloJGiIanQHY1m664YOValheliRP7kavu9SLTKzLWbYObK01sY5G8io1VC-UctDPyIlGlRSqU9GZTVhYVu9jW3rOT9-Oc11JJCOAjVvI94QPaDNYkP3s9N9Er39f/s400/IMG_1404.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Extreme!!!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkjEC_MGF0_5AP8MO7NeXrzd7AVQRooSB5VrznhxQemmEYbsQDlFCGAzKDkYAzxiXsbJ45NqPTWke9KRFm8J2UGyLmTCCnX_4jYhrkOtmcaEDidcFG43RwnQzGJZ09OZ7x5RUFVP9WFYl/s1600/IMG_1409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkjEC_MGF0_5AP8MO7NeXrzd7AVQRooSB5VrznhxQemmEYbsQDlFCGAzKDkYAzxiXsbJ45NqPTWke9KRFm8J2UGyLmTCCnX_4jYhrkOtmcaEDidcFG43RwnQzGJZ09OZ7x5RUFVP9WFYl/s400/IMG_1409.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Night all.....oh how do we get down?....Dune Buggy anyone?!</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-17472826025752555732015-06-02T20:55:00.000+02:002015-06-02T20:55:48.516+02:00Nazca and Palpa Lines<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Nazca desert is a dry desolate place,
the surface teems with red stones and boulders, scrawny half dead, dried out
shrubs dot the landscape, only interrupted by a sudden gush of green at one of
the occasional oases hidden in the deep dried up river valleys. From the desert
floor there is nothing particularly remarkable about this place with the
exception of the world's largest sand dunes and the miraculous survival of
humanity in such a place for thousands of years. But once you take to the skies
all your preconceptions change. The desert floor transmogrifies into a giant
canvas filled with shapes, images, lines and patterns - say hello to the Nazca and
Palpa lines.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We took off from Nazca airstrip in a 6-man
Cesna, 4 of us plus a pilot and guide. We spent the next hour flying over
remarkable scenery, seemingly endless geoglyphs filled the desert floor and
flat plateaus on the mountain tops. Lines and triangles are the major shapes,
criss-crossing each other and partially overlaying earlier markings. The most
fascinating to us however were the images; a spider, tree, condor, flamingo,
numerous hummingbirds and people, some representing fertility others a divine family
group and one a traveller.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There have been numerous interpretations
proposed for the markings made in the Nazca desert since they were first made widely
known in 1941 by Paul Kosok an archeologist from the US. He was joined shortly
after by the German mathematician and archeologist Maria Reiche, who devoted
her life to trying to protect, restore and unravel the mystery behind these
geoglyphs.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The theories proposed range from the devout through
the bizarre to the downright ludicrous, including aliens, supreme beings and an
earlier civilisation that has since left our planet! The more palatable ones
however have mainly been developed, or supported by, Maria Reiche.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All the markings have been made by creating
a shallow trench (10-15cm deep) by removing the red surface rocks and using
them as small edging walls. This exposes the white clay underneath which forms
the lines. But what are they for? In essence they seem to be split into three
categories, those representing deities or people, those associated with water
and those associated with the skies.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Palpa lines contain some of the oldest
markings, believed to date back to 2000BC, produced by the Chavin culture. The
earliest images tend to represent animals and people, later they produced
deities and then an increasing number and variety of geometric shapes. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The human / deity images include a voyager,
a man and woman representing fertility and a whole divine family. The geometric
shapes include a solar clock, temple and a star. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Later on the Nazca valley became more
inhabited and Nazca culture developed. In its early development, around 200AD
more stylised animals were produced, as it progressed geometric shapes
proliferated.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The triangles and lines have been
interpreted as pointing to areas where water normally comes from such as dried
up river beds and mountain gorges. It rains very little in this area, last year
for a total of just 20 minutes, therefore it is proposed that the early
civilisations that lived here between 400 BC 400AD would draw these triangles pointing
towards their water sources and dance within them, perhaps performing animal
sacrifices and other religious ceremonies to persuade their gods to provide
them with water each year.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some of the animal images produced are
believed to represent water in its different forms. The whale signifies the
sea, the hummingbird is humidity and the monkey, are not found in this area, is
likely to represent the wet rain forests to the north east.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other animal images could potentially relate to constellations and
counter constellations, the dark shapes between the stars, and mark significant
celestial moments e.g. the rising of a particular star, the summer and winter
solstices and corresponding equinoxes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whatever they represent they truly are incredible works of art,
determination and devotion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Owl Man or Astronaut is one of the unexplained images, potentially representing a deity, he is 35metres long and is one of the images quoted by the more bizarre theorists to explain extra terrestrial involvement</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqHZcb_ppv7dgItpKB7Y1d7GiGhul6G5pL0dr5BKPT237CcWO9esHPJ67Tj6enzaJVau7VKSQX0ZlG7Djw0O-Tha_G3hFQdC7kfNf7cSxKoqIN4Vj1oESGEnuJYjCSROxoXFiNnM4sqgD/s1600/IMG_0974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqHZcb_ppv7dgItpKB7Y1d7GiGhul6G5pL0dr5BKPT237CcWO9esHPJ67Tj6enzaJVau7VKSQX0ZlG7Djw0O-Tha_G3hFQdC7kfNf7cSxKoqIN4Vj1oESGEnuJYjCSROxoXFiNnM4sqgD/s400/IMG_0974.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An overview model provided at the visitor centre gives you an indication of the size and scale of the lines</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzBsjTel9xxnAdqCQXuLRpRwCkhXVhcf2Ewr5mUxcPGN8hfMTPXQdTfykU8qyw_B2XJnHQ_dZt1js7VAeJcBHlXmfckljNFmqO4h9XkqnZnNQNjTYqLitEC2DlbWKCLIIuqqJ6dtU7Hgk0/s1600/IMG_0927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzBsjTel9xxnAdqCQXuLRpRwCkhXVhcf2Ewr5mUxcPGN8hfMTPXQdTfykU8qyw_B2XJnHQ_dZt1js7VAeJcBHlXmfckljNFmqO4h9XkqnZnNQNjTYqLitEC2DlbWKCLIIuqqJ6dtU7Hgk0/s400/IMG_0927.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chocks away</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxjYN_Jk8rAQsOIulOFCb7A0m-X61STvvn0qZ-OObkkmYvPPnaV9EfX60IQ63agVDn-GD7wheYe-Knrl2wrY8mvaUvQYCN-HLjY_J3YUmTLoO8-EV2nI4ZIASFxa8DMhZMdbEhEvVNqJyb/s1600/IMG_0936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxjYN_Jk8rAQsOIulOFCb7A0m-X61STvvn0qZ-OObkkmYvPPnaV9EfX60IQ63agVDn-GD7wheYe-Knrl2wrY8mvaUvQYCN-HLjY_J3YUmTLoO8-EV2nI4ZIASFxa8DMhZMdbEhEvVNqJyb/s400/IMG_0936.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Uh oh - stowaway on board!!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpBoDux5eN85u5XBK-7FrfqhLctscaqLynZXgEBaST6I1sK4aGdgxygnlf9WsOlptQt4lDl4NK_wPFlS3MvaJuWvxjWLYJS6XUd68A7nHyBxP-lKMOcdCmXD5Jhv4DxfcJdJz9d7eoVk1t/s1600/IMG_0967.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpBoDux5eN85u5XBK-7FrfqhLctscaqLynZXgEBaST6I1sK4aGdgxygnlf9WsOlptQt4lDl4NK_wPFlS3MvaJuWvxjWLYJS6XUd68A7nHyBxP-lKMOcdCmXD5Jhv4DxfcJdJz9d7eoVk1t/s400/IMG_0967.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> A 93metre long hummingbird, perhaps symbolising humidity</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1zdDQpeSvnmS0qSzkVhZjloJUg9QfptwQPdj3jCTVdghXJu9U2p9sZyZnClvsy1HVOb6Pimt2QfGQkX2kVgwvZA-U8xrwAVQm4BX3rmPn1OOEEdBJafdts-zl2rApVgAHIViZNgnk9Y2A/s1600/IMG_0996.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1zdDQpeSvnmS0qSzkVhZjloJUg9QfptwQPdj3jCTVdghXJu9U2p9sZyZnClvsy1HVOb6Pimt2QfGQkX2kVgwvZA-U8xrwAVQm4BX3rmPn1OOEEdBJafdts-zl2rApVgAHIViZNgnk9Y2A/s400/IMG_0996.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the many huge triangular geoglyphs</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDqVKozPciNj1t8ONDLHrICACPFF3hoW19u8FO_YQbp6GV4dBWBVz4FgdIbuSwa2pl6bIJBsjF2H4MbVHhhiMbavU71Ddn-D_MNzg5du45ucJ6NkA01XbnCih9FSorV8s4-5psTtw1zXq/s1600/IMG_1005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDqVKozPciNj1t8ONDLHrICACPFF3hoW19u8FO_YQbp6GV4dBWBVz4FgdIbuSwa2pl6bIJBsjF2H4MbVHhhiMbavU71Ddn-D_MNzg5du45ucJ6NkA01XbnCih9FSorV8s4-5psTtw1zXq/s400/IMG_1005.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The mighty Condor is 135metres long. In the Inca culture around 1400AD it represented heaven, perhaps it was the same 1000 years earlier?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3zQC5UZRTz0HyI_eru4wuetl0oLUXUXBr-JV3wMBIeryJAQj3jMBb_uccmf6Y3PC4SvdvjDFE3tD6Tho-dzqU2N4tYoaXg2Vr6ZPOTKndU5XMUhtleBQ71Wllne_AhsSIfMK3Ns_It4B/s1600/IMG_1008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3zQC5UZRTz0HyI_eru4wuetl0oLUXUXBr-JV3wMBIeryJAQj3jMBb_uccmf6Y3PC4SvdvjDFE3tD6Tho-dzqU2N4tYoaXg2Vr6ZPOTKndU5XMUhtleBQ71Wllne_AhsSIfMK3Ns_It4B/s400/IMG_1008.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Spider (46metres) is believed to represent what we know as the constellation Orion. The 3 stars of Orion's belt would go across the narrow join of the thorax. In addition lines that pass through the spider point directly to where the first stars or Orion emerge above the horizon and different times of the year.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8RxsYUom1nz-4v_EbMu1XDUnibbOWMXZ2mE8STmmSWLrqb9m7AH3wuVviil2wbPB-kHFmbA37iDBTqsmlsh9jBGEP-B4etmnKNderhiS6UMDdJmLPkSak2hzPc9JSMXqIsz5hY_fgYEY/s1600/IMG_1018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8RxsYUom1nz-4v_EbMu1XDUnibbOWMXZ2mE8STmmSWLrqb9m7AH3wuVviil2wbPB-kHFmbA37iDBTqsmlsh9jBGEP-B4etmnKNderhiS6UMDdJmLPkSak2hzPc9JSMXqIsz5hY_fgYEY/s400/IMG_1018.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The tree of life (70metres) on the left represents the Huarrango tree that grows in the desert but only near water. It has very deep roots and is therefore a good indicator that water is present even if it is a long way down! The hands (50metres) on the right however are still a mystery, especially the one with only four fingers!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ImwhqP_BDaj5i6oKI8e9p8Lw0jGYrJGzAvXx1MIH9ei8PM3EYmJbxTA0KOTmL-QN5qfCpPsCsrxUeLhfB9-p8ir10B1ddh-8GdFSX8w4Ov8wyA2sTmjR-OvwTA1JdrFSdx6hRpdT-Zq2/s1600/IMG_1023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ImwhqP_BDaj5i6oKI8e9p8Lw0jGYrJGzAvXx1MIH9ei8PM3EYmJbxTA0KOTmL-QN5qfCpPsCsrxUeLhfB9-p8ir10B1ddh-8GdFSX8w4Ov8wyA2sTmjR-OvwTA1JdrFSdx6hRpdT-Zq2/s400/IMG_1023.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Parrot, potentially represents the wetter forests to the north east</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wZTjIfyKrptltbEuKpeG1mU4Wt8f_tz1vX1aQCAoQeU5WU8UMzgZ5yMxyyXZTARjXapRdrgFkE34u39-GwXV9c5IbMjuKADKgUiYoRv0ZWMVGQHqZ2Uj_e1lPs7tqWfrgL4mnmkuYsdt/s1600/IMG_1030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-wZTjIfyKrptltbEuKpeG1mU4Wt8f_tz1vX1aQCAoQeU5WU8UMzgZ5yMxyyXZTARjXapRdrgFkE34u39-GwXV9c5IbMjuKADKgUiYoRv0ZWMVGQHqZ2Uj_e1lPs7tqWfrgL4mnmkuYsdt/s400/IMG_1030.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The lines and triangles stretch into the distance, some are over 4km long</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLe3ppGyp3-sJP7qtbpdh4aeK2Kr8FEg6TAKajmiHCiRYkvLh0CwXq2huxhaYEputHTagPnFqKdNCPXoVNgM1xvXheSO_43-kf8NZbfjCGtXGZCHavYPNWz70MiQAElpnE4fiQz4dZE12w/s1600/IMG_1039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLe3ppGyp3-sJP7qtbpdh4aeK2Kr8FEg6TAKajmiHCiRYkvLh0CwXq2huxhaYEputHTagPnFqKdNCPXoVNgM1xvXheSO_43-kf8NZbfjCGtXGZCHavYPNWz70MiQAElpnE4fiQz4dZE12w/s400/IMG_1039.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The contrast between the lush river valley and the desert plateau is stark</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvwvpW5IO1WCzaYf3BBXtZAEL44Nc2Idjzg4MuH7w4T6iphBIpBeW9nwmCtI8pHXvkALeiDGkd8D0sjSH9sEmV8JyhLxpuH0G_tV3VJtMLMZfgq03i0piapIP1ajdSR2SAOrpPzY2ITrbY/s1600/IMG_1046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvwvpW5IO1WCzaYf3BBXtZAEL44Nc2Idjzg4MuH7w4T6iphBIpBeW9nwmCtI8pHXvkALeiDGkd8D0sjSH9sEmV8JyhLxpuH0G_tV3VJtMLMZfgq03i0piapIP1ajdSR2SAOrpPzY2ITrbY/s400/IMG_1046.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The heron or flamingo represent the rivers</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTPUQ6-I-9x4QONqotNRUxJyEiwsfX0Q11z2r3IKiRngzYGcoSO4y4zVcTW5v8cAeYJD8xZF26xf_t2aeatOUR9rTl1AHjWwq3KW5kpexVjwCzWjdci-IUzwyl5qx5UDCXRi2ln19sA9B/s1600/IMG_1048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTPUQ6-I-9x4QONqotNRUxJyEiwsfX0Q11z2r3IKiRngzYGcoSO4y4zVcTW5v8cAeYJD8xZF26xf_t2aeatOUR9rTl1AHjWwq3KW5kpexVjwCzWjdci-IUzwyl5qx5UDCXRi2ln19sA9B/s400/IMG_1048.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My favourite - this dude is believed to be the Voyager, a deity who protects people on their journeys. He is one of the older Palpa lines.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFMexR8Vr6zATlHHaiGJErSejFy94VSaNPhbxoQmQCLIJ6oSqyn1gNH1nit7X4Ixwc1tRWgCawY8hf6FI7YirXZl6EIochcSSx2QqPnLQJSZCyV7sT7MfLJTyGNqO5TzEGZIrcu5vRHHf/s1600/IMG_1067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFMexR8Vr6zATlHHaiGJErSejFy94VSaNPhbxoQmQCLIJ6oSqyn1gNH1nit7X4Ixwc1tRWgCawY8hf6FI7YirXZl6EIochcSSx2QqPnLQJSZCyV7sT7MfLJTyGNqO5TzEGZIrcu5vRHHf/s400/IMG_1067.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A triangle geoglyph overlays an earlier bird image</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJH5RAR2zysuwlSckEgRAf35Ld16oaJkumsinK3d9ngGgDQrSwsWYbYXencSIRTZUNIPdC_oGRi9mBI-ki86hUs4ER3Tnsj97wSeXM3faexIXodA4iTFqP4MKUiwcVu3kD9al-vPp40NQ8/s1600/IMG_1069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJH5RAR2zysuwlSckEgRAf35Ld16oaJkumsinK3d9ngGgDQrSwsWYbYXencSIRTZUNIPdC_oGRi9mBI-ki86hUs4ER3Tnsj97wSeXM3faexIXodA4iTFqP4MKUiwcVu3kD9al-vPp40NQ8/s400/IMG_1069.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A man is shown in the top left, below right a woman and to her left a symbol of fertility - again these are much earlier Palpa lines and are much more simple in their design.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKV5DKNT0mILwKnLuNenlnPkHT6f86JQGyL717nKji48MwDxA4BASCJMZJXkXVDSizybOrJrQslbQEDXKa9o9_Hxis2GyCnstL7pDLBtBpCLWhrZiz8tbfUwFI2xRLJemerkcC_UX5nw9L/s1600/IMG_1078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKV5DKNT0mILwKnLuNenlnPkHT6f86JQGyL717nKji48MwDxA4BASCJMZJXkXVDSizybOrJrQslbQEDXKa9o9_Hxis2GyCnstL7pDLBtBpCLWhrZiz8tbfUwFI2xRLJemerkcC_UX5nw9L/s400/IMG_1078.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Solar Clock</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Divine Family</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">...and some of their cousins!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Awesome trip!</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-1000888684541537962015-06-01T20:27:00.000+02:002015-06-01T20:27:04.092+02:00Savouring Rondon<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">'Rondon' is a type of Caribbean stew
cooked in coconut juice. The contents of the dish depend on the chef and
whatever is in season or to hand from the local land and sea. The name comes
from the English “Round Down” which either means to cook down (reduce) or
describes the cook preparing the dish with whatever they can find (although I'd
call this Round Up!). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">This meal is definitely a social affair. It
is a popular lunchtime dish cooked at weekends with family and friends on an
outside fire. We were fortunate enough to be invited to two family Rondons.
Both were delicious albeit prepared slightly differently. The preparation takes
a few hours during which the guests stand round the fire (noting the ambient
temperature is already hitting 30c), chatting, listening to music and drinking
beer. Following the meal, which is very filling, everyone retires to their
hammock to take a nap!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We took notes on how to prepare this
traditional dish so we can recreate it at home....<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">First the fire was built with coconut husks,
and bits of wood lying about the back yard, and a large round bottom pan was
put out to rest on three stones. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Coconuts are always plentiful on Providence.
A good number, I'd say 5 or more where shelled and the flesh cut into medium
slithers. This was then blended in batches with water, sieved and squeezed, and
then the process was repeated. The resulting coconut milk was kept and the
leftover finely grated coconut went to the chickens. This juice made the
base of the soup and was heated over the fire at a good simmer. I saw one chef
add some corn flour as a thickening agent. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">To the simmering soup is added the
vegetables - cassava, yam and plantain all chopped into large pieces.
Then flavourings are stirred in, these vary depending on the cooks preferences
including onion, garlic, red peppers, pimento (spicy peppers), basil, chili and
Maggie (stock) seasoning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">In a separate pressure cooker conch is
boiled to make it tender. Conch (pronounced <i>'konk'</i>) is a large
marine snail, a distant relative of the whelk. They are gastropod
mollusks, found in warm waters of the Atlantic and the Caribbean. Their
shells have overlapping whorls with a bright coloured pink lip, which can reach
a length of about 25cms. These are collected by free diving around the island.
They are a very popular food and can also be served with garlic or in a ceviche
(cooked in lime juice) style. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Next the pig tails in brine! To remove the
excess salt from the tails they may have been soaked over night in fresh water.
In a pan the pig tails were boiled to soften and remove further salt. They
were then also pressure cooked to tenderise them. Apparently the tails actually
come from Canada and no one knew why they where used in the dish, but they
certainly added a good flavour. When the vegetables in the soup have softened,
the conch and tails were added. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Near the end the fish was gently laid in the
stew, if it was to be used. Local fish, such as snapper, were seasoned with
black pepper and salt. The fish was added to the simmering stew in large
pieces, heads and all. Other seafood could be added, depending on what is
available such as langosta (lobster), cangrejo (crab), calamare (squid)
etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Finally the dumplings. These were made of
wheat flour, baking powder and water. The dumplings where flattened by hand
into a disc shape and laid on top of the stew. I was told that the dumplings
came from the English influence, and were always called dumplings even when
speaking in Spanish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">With all the smells and the anticipation we
were excited to taste this dish! It was a creamy and rich dish, and the strong
pig tail and fish flavours were balanced by the starchy vegetables. The pig
tails were delicious, we enjoyed gnawing them! We liked the peppery and
spicyness of the dish, and cooking the conch really well gave them a pleasant
soft bite. The dumplings were great, real stodge and comfort food. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We were very grateful for the generous
hospitality of our new friends. It was an incredibly filling dish and they were
right, we had to have a lie down afterwards to let it settle! </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Joanna adding seasoning, boiled pig tails, conch & potatoes to the bubbling coconut milk</span></div>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNJBi3O3heAxjE8rnlSOQ62i-VDS_XINateJPRlOOjkkYocugXlAW4V145E58oAeaxWb5TEhauDurESEpuGfRdwvbzrRv7lk4OEOexOajKzzlQq4XuugwChMl8d-bNM0Q7giXigqvYBEv/s1600/IMG_0661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNJBi3O3heAxjE8rnlSOQ62i-VDS_XINateJPRlOOjkkYocugXlAW4V145E58oAeaxWb5TEhauDurESEpuGfRdwvbzrRv7lk4OEOexOajKzzlQq4XuugwChMl8d-bNM0Q7giXigqvYBEv/s400/IMG_0661.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our graceful hosts backyard - the epicentre for Rondon cooking</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlCAu5j3HFUNkknAG8b_RdZQL4abOHjyhBBFxjl3lRlrTBZlrWpmjQOiHWZPx-3y92tBBOZaXerlMbVYPc4MLXIWHCzPvVCJb2rI3IOHQ89U-4iu3yLYYZamrE0n_i51HY8CIj9UspF3D/s1600/IMG_0664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlCAu5j3HFUNkknAG8b_RdZQL4abOHjyhBBFxjl3lRlrTBZlrWpmjQOiHWZPx-3y92tBBOZaXerlMbVYPc4MLXIWHCzPvVCJb2rI3IOHQ89U-4iu3yLYYZamrE0n_i51HY8CIj9UspF3D/s400/IMG_0664.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nearing the end the fish goes in</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOM2dHYqDRQXLGxoFcUdd2YO7C024U84kj_wcQVGAGiBrwKM40UG6RMjbEOt8cnyz2w643NKzEsna7l8zL5M-HBM50bc_qeZq7iUglpibbwxKNRqHinY5z88uAtCUD2YqAk0M1_Eubsnm/s1600/IMG_0669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOM2dHYqDRQXLGxoFcUdd2YO7C024U84kj_wcQVGAGiBrwKM40UG6RMjbEOt8cnyz2w643NKzEsna7l8zL5M-HBM50bc_qeZq7iUglpibbwxKNRqHinY5z88uAtCUD2YqAk0M1_Eubsnm/s400/IMG_0669.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9mOQh51GO6O1nYIk4oQFsHFfSvHO3RQSSG-CGvKX8W4tWczUKFVfMGdHtBABWFnmQXNgV6jaW2w1KNRITIltgn_IdmHyjBTSMj_tBBIYf60jkUk_RBd9SsmL2mqYf8HGs4j_nAbqY_RA/s1600/IMG_0670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9mOQh51GO6O1nYIk4oQFsHFfSvHO3RQSSG-CGvKX8W4tWczUKFVfMGdHtBABWFnmQXNgV6jaW2w1KNRITIltgn_IdmHyjBTSMj_tBBIYf60jkUk_RBd9SsmL2mqYf8HGs4j_nAbqY_RA/s400/IMG_0670.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And last but not least the 'English' dumplings are rolled and kneeded into flying saucer shapes and added to the pot</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1j13NbdeFPsJIPS7BvgB3CuKhirkPJx1J-EzV4nfssQKgW2hGOCW8DlL-lxLlqc7tHLd7TPyfMNiJzG_8CtWTClaguura2Fd7GCzZCsixgAlvQI6vlJjTslo1EPeS6tUcNEyhE9Bq1SL/s1600/IMG_0671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1j13NbdeFPsJIPS7BvgB3CuKhirkPJx1J-EzV4nfssQKgW2hGOCW8DlL-lxLlqc7tHLd7TPyfMNiJzG_8CtWTClaguura2Fd7GCzZCsixgAlvQI6vlJjTslo1EPeS6tUcNEyhE9Bq1SL/s400/IMG_0671.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Add the lid and simmer whilst having a beer</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfEnJhCN3gQTOCFdKSRu1shF32MSTn8es7DbIme4bwPrnHDBDgojj_dMwQZ4Y2co9IauZdEDvvBvfJFtD6qtUD7WVi1mzclUUxkusIbifEsl75PsgtipNtUCrQlqo3XyS_5yyDv6u_lUnH/s1600/IMG_0682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfEnJhCN3gQTOCFdKSRu1shF32MSTn8es7DbIme4bwPrnHDBDgojj_dMwQZ4Y2co9IauZdEDvvBvfJFtD6qtUD7WVi1mzclUUxkusIbifEsl75PsgtipNtUCrQlqo3XyS_5yyDv6u_lUnH/s400/IMG_0682.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">...ok its hot two beers!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZJuIQoanVBqa3r9fhp84AZbaDTNqRphBy86CnydrTis4KrC31oE0mQIRVRJhmKtPMBym0yeLxzV_xJhCVH4NqnO1JOcptjGji88mpMkDK82aWx8-f6JRXmUOhAck7C4Bf8_0okT7U6ay/s1600/IMG_0684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZJuIQoanVBqa3r9fhp84AZbaDTNqRphBy86CnydrTis4KrC31oE0mQIRVRJhmKtPMBym0yeLxzV_xJhCVH4NqnO1JOcptjGji88mpMkDK82aWx8-f6JRXmUOhAck7C4Bf8_0okT7U6ay/s400/IMG_0684.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eh voila - amazing - eat and sleep!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQg-OfgSLKXsN6MxzM61gre-RZD0J0MpinnKk4MCdFta_MefXjfZtUpomrsVzosc0Ti1g5SdvPPXB66EyuItTYV_p4d4eQBP98dXbGFDXtTQTwSO4UjPxRCuIZlefqOp9AB5xO67RG8e-N/s1600/IMG_0691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQg-OfgSLKXsN6MxzM61gre-RZD0J0MpinnKk4MCdFta_MefXjfZtUpomrsVzosc0Ti1g5SdvPPXB66EyuItTYV_p4d4eQBP98dXbGFDXtTQTwSO4UjPxRCuIZlefqOp9AB5xO67RG8e-N/s400/IMG_0691.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bruce, our host and chef, boiling up his veg and conch in the coconut milk</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioR1INb_OIjI5euTz6qhwS2Iwa1kztu2fePyYN0Ed1DiEbhlQBIyaaeLfdmekunsjWfhZHIvQQsyElz7tpsDjkRRrOICBAlXTpPeGL9PrDqjreUPrPvD4lQmCw4Sg0TSiBCxUjYHeIbkkb/s1600/IMG_0763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioR1INb_OIjI5euTz6qhwS2Iwa1kztu2fePyYN0Ed1DiEbhlQBIyaaeLfdmekunsjWfhZHIvQQsyElz7tpsDjkRRrOICBAlXTpPeGL9PrDqjreUPrPvD4lQmCw4Sg0TSiBCxUjYHeIbkkb/s400/IMG_0763.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bruce's fisherman crew join us for a few beers around the fire</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Hm1-e928Gzclbgi7TsoNzgSPayAfBH2XQsDe_yIiSGNIfvVRq6umDVEFfUzQ-D1fC8J4LNvcb3JjJhTMn7kbCwfElhuKEgf68Q4ziWTF1469P7a8oGxvOwaWJpnCEsp8hAKJLaDYKByH/s1600/IMG_0767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Hm1-e928Gzclbgi7TsoNzgSPayAfBH2XQsDe_yIiSGNIfvVRq6umDVEFfUzQ-D1fC8J4LNvcb3JjJhTMn7kbCwfElhuKEgf68Q4ziWTF1469P7a8oGxvOwaWJpnCEsp8hAKJLaDYKByH/s400/IMG_0767.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Carmeni, our wonderful hostess, for the majority of our stay on Providence</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILoWlAj7GyvJMY-aQUnJYjKf6VLHaYyWj2NwtkYRwYNL31l_GA3Ko_JRdf4lWDp__CBEW-pIw6ND9_QLw_00w5EUQGJTVP8OnEt6uNNw5KXm5GSp0n0QxQbBaWGvY2jz7WiGExltj1pjb/s1600/IMG_0768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILoWlAj7GyvJMY-aQUnJYjKf6VLHaYyWj2NwtkYRwYNL31l_GA3Ko_JRdf4lWDp__CBEW-pIw6ND9_QLw_00w5EUQGJTVP8OnEt6uNNw5KXm5GSp0n0QxQbBaWGvY2jz7WiGExltj1pjb/s400/IMG_0768.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Can't talk must eat!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVBsku_RaMhJkdwXbY_ctw7iNkJJRNxunp9d1Pb_6-GdUvOXgtJUoMKDFNB4L5PlxQsGdYRICj5XFcEUdtae9BIZuvpojbsuV51DxvIOLETLCRrciUtyXSbnRU114lMGIMTI8ieycn8kAQ/s1600/IMG_0771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVBsku_RaMhJkdwXbY_ctw7iNkJJRNxunp9d1Pb_6-GdUvOXgtJUoMKDFNB4L5PlxQsGdYRICj5XFcEUdtae9BIZuvpojbsuV51DxvIOLETLCRrciUtyXSbnRU114lMGIMTI8ieycn8kAQ/s400/IMG_0771.jpg" width="352" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Very different style with yam, potato, plantain, conch and pigtail - just as good and just as sleepy!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11VbHLxltdB25JnpMBVhu5wyhLtkNcZTSxpYLM75Fo7sIn4JQ4b00ruO6-6piMOdH0oUtL9l0VxshOK6eqILLYsaSz8sVym-pcBk7mVvR3RQ6A9qy2IVfxs6y2hQt20vTQ97EVQG7BI-A/s1600/IMG_0772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11VbHLxltdB25JnpMBVhu5wyhLtkNcZTSxpYLM75Fo7sIn4JQ4b00ruO6-6piMOdH0oUtL9l0VxshOK6eqILLYsaSz8sVym-pcBk7mVvR3RQ6A9qy2IVfxs6y2hQt20vTQ97EVQG7BI-A/s400/IMG_0772.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sarah with Angel, Carmeni and our two loyal companions Cossita and Puppy!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZgkWYU5MRsz2fiRiW_CZjWxFqBonNi1O6S68we5mqtI1mG88tXP9jjOXU3ul9bByXZUvW5Sxpp5MS8Js7RmLix6L4D_C8z320l33bbRAnejU4nwwQcBvuL7bmroF5Z0D6qtFDpCQPx3Dh/s1600/IMG_0781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZgkWYU5MRsz2fiRiW_CZjWxFqBonNi1O6S68we5mqtI1mG88tXP9jjOXU3ul9bByXZUvW5Sxpp5MS8Js7RmLix6L4D_C8z320l33bbRAnejU4nwwQcBvuL7bmroF5Z0D6qtFDpCQPx3Dh/s400/IMG_0781.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-52827274478514614302015-05-28T18:36:00.001+02:002015-05-28T18:36:32.886+02:00A Marching Army<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the darkness embraces the island of
Providence and the temperatures settle to a more manageable warm embrace, the
people return to their front porches, swing in their hammocks, cook their
dinners and crack open a beer or two. But in the forested hills of Providence’s
interior something is stirring.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You hear it first, a rustling of leaves
followed by the scratchy tickling of needled toes on concrete. The volume
grows, more rustling more clicking until it reaches a crescendo of a thousand
ticking clocks all out of sync. Like a forest of cicadas or a thousand Fonzies,
this is a metronomic army on the march.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then the smell hits you, of rotting mulch
with a whiff of putrifying fish guts. But it’s not umpleasant, quite sweet, the
smell of action.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And then you see them, dozens at first, then
hundreds and by midnight thousands. A two way procession, mothers laden with
eggs marching determinedly towards the sea and those who’s mission is complete
climbing back up the banks and rock outcrops returning to the hills.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These are the infamous black mountain crabs of
Providence. Every year when the first small showers arrive between April and
June they leave their mountain retreats and head to the see driven by the need
to reproduce. The females carry their eggs under their bodies. Males loiter
attempting to fertilise the eggs during the females migration to the sea.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Their major obstruction is Providence’s
single road which encircles the island with its high curbstones and occasional
traffic. As a car or bike approaches the swarming marching army scuttles in a
wave to avoid the wheels of doom! Many islanders are conscious of the crabs,
which provide a livelihood to many as they are eaten most of the year, and slow
their charges to avoid the black mass. But some do not. The squashed crabs do
not go to waste. The hungry mothers dine on the flesh as they re-cross the road
on their return to the mountains. In the daylight chickens will feed on those bodies
that remain.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As your eyes grow accustomed to the dark you
notice the banks on the side of the road contain a thriving mass of moving
shiny shells rustling their way through the leaves. But the road resembles a
battleground, the wounded, dead and dying litter the road, the opportunist
cannibals feed as they pass.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We felt most humbled to witness this amazing
migration, to experience the drive that these crabs most feel in order to
undertake such a mammoth journey to ensure of their species own survival.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">However we also felt horrified at the
numbers squashed by careless and ignorant people, many of whom rely on the crab
for an income or at least have friends and family that do. The islanders are
trying to protect these animals. Road blocks are set up during the migration
and people are encouraged not to collect crabs, particularly those with eggs.
We are hopeful for the future as people become better educated and aware so
that future generations can experience one of natures amazing events.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Say Hello to the Black Mountain Crab</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAxg7zdlQrHA740puF-TcFJnjN6qtTnnpUNkEa1zUjQcGg9KzeJAm5gUgDJY3F14I9vHY97A91iJB1cjf3K5Fsq2EBsgbu-eSuXkvhU_KHUqx5tKRwnlpL3G2KvAIr3HCvxW5FTXAXipk/s1600/IMG_0759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAxg7zdlQrHA740puF-TcFJnjN6qtTnnpUNkEa1zUjQcGg9KzeJAm5gUgDJY3F14I9vHY97A91iJB1cjf3K5Fsq2EBsgbu-eSuXkvhU_KHUqx5tKRwnlpL3G2KvAIr3HCvxW5FTXAXipk/s400/IMG_0759.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Emerging from the forest through the leaf litter and on to the road</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgql4X5D0hyphenhyphen614efaq_k54niCZK9IfPkvbRf4z6hXJtThs4dfOF1D6iE8pCFaG2paQI2M_sapXdlrz4kNPdtB4psAAA1i7zX6aHND1CzVsZ78Pjz77PmoMi-nAw5Nd260p66xYAaiIrseBa/s1600/IMG_0703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgql4X5D0hyphenhyphen614efaq_k54niCZK9IfPkvbRf4z6hXJtThs4dfOF1D6iE8pCFaG2paQI2M_sapXdlrz4kNPdtB4psAAA1i7zX6aHND1CzVsZ78Pjz77PmoMi-nAw5Nd260p66xYAaiIrseBa/s400/IMG_0703.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A steady clicking and ticking of needle like toes</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJXkInbtPtdTcNgOrFsKTln9ko9XnP3c__u8sUKSA4foLzm9JRGtpghGw9EFnx1mPkmM8aaTRi1JvRZT7lx8cy8VydGaw7HGIn5T_PXHBJaCK8J6dmmQ8UB40fWTqR02T3Jpjs8nVhp9n8/s1600/IMG_0706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJXkInbtPtdTcNgOrFsKTln9ko9XnP3c__u8sUKSA4foLzm9JRGtpghGw9EFnx1mPkmM8aaTRi1JvRZT7lx8cy8VydGaw7HGIn5T_PXHBJaCK8J6dmmQ8UB40fWTqR02T3Jpjs8nVhp9n8/s400/IMG_0706.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As the night progresses the numbers boom</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3qMsdsGLa1fUDHEcq21xQemSGBarPFqycwoFhDYca0cNO3AzA_KIGPLDoIsjtcPB_2pjQFkgX2gnwaNmtbYpqvy0opif8YpjspQxqkJoB9WGHrUwUT2nSHm8LZneYNhyphenhyphen5RFVzQe588Z6v/s1600/IMG_0714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3qMsdsGLa1fUDHEcq21xQemSGBarPFqycwoFhDYca0cNO3AzA_KIGPLDoIsjtcPB_2pjQFkgX2gnwaNmtbYpqvy0opif8YpjspQxqkJoB9WGHrUwUT2nSHm8LZneYNhyphenhyphen5RFVzQe588Z6v/s400/IMG_0714.jpg" width="368" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The high curbstones provide yet another obstacle</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZJmC_8S-PbIat8cyQF186gWNOuZIGIK8U_upVpzaOf2YCkJAyVdGCEm09J1rBE2Grwgh0yLoxZpbwOAKprEGi-Eiww_Nn5KimNZj05mVeoikxkUmmDxKQ5kE4sVQtq1UtpS8bEoCWpth/s1600/IMG_0715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZJmC_8S-PbIat8cyQF186gWNOuZIGIK8U_upVpzaOf2YCkJAyVdGCEm09J1rBE2Grwgh0yLoxZpbwOAKprEGi-Eiww_Nn5KimNZj05mVeoikxkUmmDxKQ5kE4sVQtq1UtpS8bEoCWpth/s400/IMG_0715.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although called black their shells are more of a deep purple</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFkZLfkXexZdJDRW5BxJTAWm-FN8wprkdry18Qokc2j57nbmzM0VA_jDGJ8v7yawlM5ae1CP6jL0sOS0zV-D95eBIDgSOlmvobczbzx-5hF5AT-_dYz26-LnCpnGUQq5IqZCHBrx-2tLYq/s1600/IMG_0720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFkZLfkXexZdJDRW5BxJTAWm-FN8wprkdry18Qokc2j57nbmzM0VA_jDGJ8v7yawlM5ae1CP6jL0sOS0zV-D95eBIDgSOlmvobczbzx-5hF5AT-_dYz26-LnCpnGUQq5IqZCHBrx-2tLYq/s400/IMG_0720.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">8 legs is an advantage for climbing</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWLci8mo0RtIAVuZN4tbutw1Mxmrjjrcn2CQl9dNovIct9PaymZZlav8b-pBUClKWDHgqKanBYykoRsrL4ebq5Jb3Foa4Kh0RIaDQDnTx49vQDpZHHcaMemrcBEmuvRoZP90wHXLToMOk/s1600/IMG_0722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWLci8mo0RtIAVuZN4tbutw1Mxmrjjrcn2CQl9dNovIct9PaymZZlav8b-pBUClKWDHgqKanBYykoRsrL4ebq5Jb3Foa4Kh0RIaDQDnTx49vQDpZHHcaMemrcBEmuvRoZP90wHXLToMOk/s400/IMG_0722.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfergmwsZUF28ONRX91LH4SD4-O3R_vrhh3_ZH5nwqNnVMFmi92BiXJ_gJOl6XUfK7JpR-6PNvzLCk6P2cUc1L0jEkwaTd3TIvcaPhtM5VQpkOc022CycawlkZy0xf1VqQ3VxYPXvdmhmN/s1600/IMG_0724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfergmwsZUF28ONRX91LH4SD4-O3R_vrhh3_ZH5nwqNnVMFmi92BiXJ_gJOl6XUfK7JpR-6PNvzLCk6P2cUc1L0jEkwaTd3TIvcaPhtM5VQpkOc022CycawlkZy0xf1VqQ3VxYPXvdmhmN/s400/IMG_0724.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Often they cross the road near street lights which I think must confuse them</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBafLIE68pYWJiYxlCMQ2pvb3M0M5iCNWduPZ30_EZJTdoXTqTqSQtERpIQN6LVWGKKKxT9NPR5-vvDO40yAIdZUwwV1LNMo3Qb4rLfqSGiP4GCdkROnqLC_pzfNywnPWboGUZoQi5-zcn/s1600/IMG_0725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBafLIE68pYWJiYxlCMQ2pvb3M0M5iCNWduPZ30_EZJTdoXTqTqSQtERpIQN6LVWGKKKxT9NPR5-vvDO40yAIdZUwwV1LNMo3Qb4rLfqSGiP4GCdkROnqLC_pzfNywnPWboGUZoQi5-zcn/s400/IMG_0725.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This one is definitely confused</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBFhulSnMekDL1ctubdgzFB3Xq-5bI2JPB34V70B0UKc-6l9P7CAFb1h1LRouqsAyifii3h9l2cdyXNZ2BXszubfgXf0Nk21Ri2f71t2Rv4freEFVS9M3gsL_0gY_QD39-_oNwVK3IS4u/s1600/IMG_0730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBFhulSnMekDL1ctubdgzFB3Xq-5bI2JPB34V70B0UKc-6l9P7CAFb1h1LRouqsAyifii3h9l2cdyXNZ2BXszubfgXf0Nk21Ri2f71t2Rv4freEFVS9M3gsL_0gY_QD39-_oNwVK3IS4u/s400/IMG_0730.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">They swarm around and into any building in their way</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHFjB6OlBwsSW8Fgu1RqSvrQFQd9pKcpC-8494SSNAyKG5OiBk1v_ECuElKC7iBQ4vt5jCXwxoL1c2Wf7e22SBY91fKrnX1YYpV9Z_7Z1shrsNzVkwYZPNfc2m8mC5_I9HgBvodSLfgp8/s1600/IMG_0733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHFjB6OlBwsSW8Fgu1RqSvrQFQd9pKcpC-8494SSNAyKG5OiBk1v_ECuElKC7iBQ4vt5jCXwxoL1c2Wf7e22SBY91fKrnX1YYpV9Z_7Z1shrsNzVkwYZPNfc2m8mC5_I9HgBvodSLfgp8/s400/IMG_0733.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Home owners are for ever sweeping out their houses in the morning to remove the squatters</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrR8OaJ8v5Mpk82RdMnFLzTwv62kVp4-VrzwcaACyUoTq-URsKKQcA-tGHcjW_wMezAvoDm48enzEjN-7TQFWs9pqo08fCcB1NPBm4JJs8OL13ktAhuqJ1TZ2A7oFGOJXeC7vJnYP-zbh/s1600/IMG_0741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrR8OaJ8v5Mpk82RdMnFLzTwv62kVp4-VrzwcaACyUoTq-URsKKQcA-tGHcjW_wMezAvoDm48enzEjN-7TQFWs9pqo08fCcB1NPBm4JJs8OL13ktAhuqJ1TZ2A7oFGOJXeC7vJnYP-zbh/s400/IMG_0741.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A chance meal for the long return trip</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDjnEI5s9B3cOakK4wPOM0p-JZc1B3OiSbaMdrU8JywTPQAZk7Qn3RHO0VxFFLVbtiigYf0e66L6eWWRlfttnEdDMjvlyJ6Ak_WuGVa1VL-tOrGcwNtj2Eq2V1yfGaChd-8GMZU2Ly1sL_/s1600/IMG_0746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDjnEI5s9B3cOakK4wPOM0p-JZc1B3OiSbaMdrU8JywTPQAZk7Qn3RHO0VxFFLVbtiigYf0e66L6eWWRlfttnEdDMjvlyJ6Ak_WuGVa1VL-tOrGcwNtj2Eq2V1yfGaChd-8GMZU2Ly1sL_/s400/IMG_0746.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg696WxcGPm2Ihy8yYzhf6JMzUGhHxx8at_eaUWDEt2uLShXm__1O6Sx9U7iigUr7G6shHjSWv0fwDhxhMtdhYYy8GtswUto7v9Ye64Z43nh0LRLtwAuR16a8BIBBpQ5AUFJR14_WmZsarV/s1600/IMG_0747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg696WxcGPm2Ihy8yYzhf6JMzUGhHxx8at_eaUWDEt2uLShXm__1O6Sx9U7iigUr7G6shHjSWv0fwDhxhMtdhYYy8GtswUto7v9Ye64Z43nh0LRLtwAuR16a8BIBBpQ5AUFJR14_WmZsarV/s400/IMG_0747.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although this one may have just fainted!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrYGXrVkmsrCnY062uETILra-wnxLnx85x2gZvA5U7P7iCxFU3RdF5vL8cpx1YaBMsD3u8sug0LEamJKgdoLrboHv7MPPCTH-8vxg0Pi5cUS-NIG0UJF98bYOSEzlm9NbR6EZuU1sIKPA/s1600/IMG_0748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrYGXrVkmsrCnY062uETILra-wnxLnx85x2gZvA5U7P7iCxFU3RdF5vL8cpx1YaBMsD3u8sug0LEamJKgdoLrboHv7MPPCTH-8vxg0Pi5cUS-NIG0UJF98bYOSEzlm9NbR6EZuU1sIKPA/s400/IMG_0748.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJPclvPkBigqY9KBqF4si-bJ8Ti4dP8PubOq1cXfOrkF6IYK8xsQFWYnLypMyNOTFnbpTh8foSU9hKgI7K6TZtvgGAjA3VbwSjha_xT_R5xRli2fyojWN6sb9mY_A5pnvRgsYvUW-6ihP/s1600/IMG_0753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJPclvPkBigqY9KBqF4si-bJ8Ti4dP8PubOq1cXfOrkF6IYK8xsQFWYnLypMyNOTFnbpTh8foSU9hKgI7K6TZtvgGAjA3VbwSjha_xT_R5xRli2fyojWN6sb9mY_A5pnvRgsYvUW-6ihP/s400/IMG_0753.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdr71v7e6wBE3hokWW15W8xize3LUxbMNgf_BF5YjjrtLpcy5pcj_WApo2RsNW-cMf7gqQ0hPwMb_ntMsLyaFO8NIZvFnx6ZUl_jrrvzpQVJQW1Ggu_zHEp9TAQ9p-XPbcIMC1thcBjzul/s1600/IMG_0756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdr71v7e6wBE3hokWW15W8xize3LUxbMNgf_BF5YjjrtLpcy5pcj_WApo2RsNW-cMf7gqQ0hPwMb_ntMsLyaFO8NIZvFnx6ZUl_jrrvzpQVJQW1Ggu_zHEp9TAQ9p-XPbcIMC1thcBjzul/s400/IMG_0756.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stop! Crabs crossing</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4unIdWrebrLy9sULgjwnvgrD0za18yE72bKgOSl27Ggk26OyOfZtIAd0ZOLu_EgCkhRgc4fNeV0EqwTTVnmdJiJ5CERgTPrlieKY-HIN2N-QCtaIpFLJvvlkh3XHYiHKkC7CrwKJ0Wxz/s1600/IMG_0758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4unIdWrebrLy9sULgjwnvgrD0za18yE72bKgOSl27Ggk26OyOfZtIAd0ZOLu_EgCkhRgc4fNeV0EqwTTVnmdJiJ5CERgTPrlieKY-HIN2N-QCtaIpFLJvvlkh3XHYiHKkC7CrwKJ0Wxz/s400/IMG_0758.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-69546474262802067392015-05-26T19:42:00.001+02:002015-05-26T19:42:52.876+02:00At the Races<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the Saturday we arrived in Providence we were lucky enough to catch a horse race on Southwest Beach. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In a rum-fuelled discussion on zoology we were told that the first horses of Providence might be the descendants of large sea horses. As part of their evolution they changed their diet of seaweed to that of grass of terra firma. The English brought thoroughbred mares, which have now been mixed with the blood of the spirited Colombian trotter.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were two flat races, each race consisting of two colts or fillies. Each runner was owned by a local syndicate. Honour and glory were at stake, and we heard whispers that due to alleged cheating or unfairness last month someone was stabbed. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most of the island turned out to watch them gallop along hard sand on the waters edge. We could hear bets being placed amongst friends and rivals on which runner would win. Some of the bets were over £200. The largest bet we were told about on a recent race was £750. On an island with a poor economy this represented some very serious alliances! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The horses trotted up to the starting line past the punters talking quickly and loudly on the beach. On the first race the riders where quite distinct. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The noise of the crowd built to a crescendo, children were called in to close quarters so as not to get trampled under the hooves of this local Derby. Suddenly we saw the horses galloping towards us through the surf. Spray and sand was flung up from each striding hoof. The rivals vied for pole position. With their tails raised they shot past us towards the finish line with the bay increasing his lead.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">It was over too quickly and exciting to watch. Apparently they only race once a month, so we happened to be in the right place just at the right time.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Feisty fillies warming up</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixIeQP_cc_VyHcGZlfBv0tRmDWhVGOTiUeUy2UIph0O0ui-ZdS6SoTKpI-0PiDn4Mqb4LORqTh4xINQmbjC5Rsp8NR6Ky41xET4B1HeCEOmb13GYpXSWx3FB_9cW8sypIRazuRMXB8JIEr/s1600/IMG_9766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixIeQP_cc_VyHcGZlfBv0tRmDWhVGOTiUeUy2UIph0O0ui-ZdS6SoTKpI-0PiDn4Mqb4LORqTh4xINQmbjC5Rsp8NR6Ky41xET4B1HeCEOmb13GYpXSWx3FB_9cW8sypIRazuRMXB8JIEr/s400/IMG_9766.jpg" width="298" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwx5Rj2336qhp7RfSdYMKKiAv125s-n_BiJ5s2nylJEGoWWsLywOjjbyTYDFizzP6eaFZeDQYLU_LnyIQKfQNzyLW4VfuNDPzIP-Vy7xseJfAJdq9Y4odUCVA2uHv0brHaQDawBlAie8Jf/s1600/IMG_9774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwx5Rj2336qhp7RfSdYMKKiAv125s-n_BiJ5s2nylJEGoWWsLywOjjbyTYDFizzP6eaFZeDQYLU_LnyIQKfQNzyLW4VfuNDPzIP-Vy7xseJfAJdq9Y4odUCVA2uHv0brHaQDawBlAie8Jf/s400/IMG_9774.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Smart uniform including Liverpool football socks circa. 1985</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9pU0YFtIJPb6ooKHMds1PknnITo6rwCwdV7gRabf7Ebikjt8CNLNc9RgdynY5eBu58tHkprv9gAektkr-CEeqhht_3aLD7RJzI13pDrn8BX4zyqVW1CpaJ3UMGeTN0Y3bsMmq2sIFN7W7/s1600/IMG_9779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9pU0YFtIJPb6ooKHMds1PknnITo6rwCwdV7gRabf7Ebikjt8CNLNc9RgdynY5eBu58tHkprv9gAektkr-CEeqhht_3aLD7RJzI13pDrn8BX4zyqVW1CpaJ3UMGeTN0Y3bsMmq2sIFN7W7/s400/IMG_9779.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A crowded finishing post (palm tree)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96me26m-_FwbffwWEKKMJAyAH-8TqF48fwnFkqymGgWvm5AWpldkCQfKKgcLivEYJnsT1sVr2R04-3LK43O1Z6xQ0Gg6_sxyn7T1WDXkjP-TzCgxnBnSmWaWxKbcgQQfvXlChlQcWEz6X/s1600/IMG_9783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96me26m-_FwbffwWEKKMJAyAH-8TqF48fwnFkqymGgWvm5AWpldkCQfKKgcLivEYJnsT1sVr2R04-3LK43O1Z6xQ0Gg6_sxyn7T1WDXkjP-TzCgxnBnSmWaWxKbcgQQfvXlChlQcWEz6X/s400/IMG_9783.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ladies Day at the beach</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78gxg0OHxJ0o3GjHxymLnZOjLQ2DyZZ8VfY6rW3ieu92n3pgrUmDnlresgRRx_CtSjBpw1z18D0bUzOuoVVlOBY2-odQzG7I0FzEvOUm4OK8sHz3YDem9NeimPGxcHHnd6oIlTVqOImcq/s1600/IMG_9787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78gxg0OHxJ0o3GjHxymLnZOjLQ2DyZZ8VfY6rW3ieu92n3pgrUmDnlresgRRx_CtSjBpw1z18D0bUzOuoVVlOBY2-odQzG7I0FzEvOUm4OK8sHz3YDem9NeimPGxcHHnd6oIlTVqOImcq/s400/IMG_9787.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And they're off.....</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDKhg87vriwi7ymLiNF-t5veO6-bHD4e2kGPyMC6HqFGDyVp04R2c8fxKzCZhcxYb_hRJl_Ddw7vvrow1FA1CPoZ_m3IfG7n-s8HZDqwiMvtuGKD3PMkNvggbJflSDIXt2FOgiKHg7HE_/s1600/IMG_9789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDKhg87vriwi7ymLiNF-t5veO6-bHD4e2kGPyMC6HqFGDyVp04R2c8fxKzCZhcxYb_hRJl_Ddw7vvrow1FA1CPoZ_m3IfG7n-s8HZDqwiMvtuGKD3PMkNvggbJflSDIXt2FOgiKHg7HE_/s400/IMG_9789.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sprinting clear</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cruising to victory</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh681Evz2UNogTBhlafBU-s8dTnEn-Ag9j4g9azCk-SWu7fXfXsG8uWBoH0rxGQEaphD-IghueIWHqBTjyFRzQuwzTb9P886SAmce7B04ZxdRwtHMXqPyw_geewTmzNdBAqtPB8GSDRJDDx/s1600/IMG_9793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh681Evz2UNogTBhlafBU-s8dTnEn-Ag9j4g9azCk-SWu7fXfXsG8uWBoH0rxGQEaphD-IghueIWHqBTjyFRzQuwzTb9P886SAmce7B04ZxdRwtHMXqPyw_geewTmzNdBAqtPB8GSDRJDDx/s400/IMG_9793.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Second race (the 13:45 at Royal Providence)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkaA8owhkoDetD0ME8ASkLMwGLBdakxCl3vB7-Wlzk2cZskjaRjqISghGeV1dDTqYaT3f-6qhMY5URuE3-s8U_VF5M4DQXEnQ32LVNKt5Bsd7aID5ECJSHz23QXF7Cu6_oHqVxwTvN-Vgp/s1600/IMG_9817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkaA8owhkoDetD0ME8ASkLMwGLBdakxCl3vB7-Wlzk2cZskjaRjqISghGeV1dDTqYaT3f-6qhMY5URuE3-s8U_VF5M4DQXEnQ32LVNKt5Bsd7aID5ECJSHz23QXF7Cu6_oHqVxwTvN-Vgp/s400/IMG_9817.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A closer encounter</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7azlV5bqXjKqIQDaz_791Gf90ha4DpkJ8oOtvGrWsbA5Pg_iIzLgOE7CIYFUuKvfF63EV4A9USFDyhCZwbHWSwxT_0IwgE1KsZbNBw6c18sC5dVL11Hw0aZM7z50Sm82UKa-MBW7vn6r/s1600/IMG_9822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7azlV5bqXjKqIQDaz_791Gf90ha4DpkJ8oOtvGrWsbA5Pg_iIzLgOE7CIYFUuKvfF63EV4A9USFDyhCZwbHWSwxT_0IwgE1KsZbNBw6c18sC5dVL11Hw0aZM7z50Sm82UKa-MBW7vn6r/s400/IMG_9822.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The grey ahead by a length</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But the chestnut powers through to take it at the finish</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-53536632524349585492015-05-21T22:09:00.002+02:002015-05-21T22:09:40.526+02:00History of Old Providence<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We were interested in the history of
Providence and Santa Catalina so noted down gems of information we found around
the islands. So, for those of you who are interested, this is what we gleaned,
I wouldn't base your PhD on these 'facts' alone though.....</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The islands were formed by an ancient
volcanic mountain building phase during the Miocene period (23 to 5 Million
years ago, which is pretty recent in geological time). Casting our fading
memories back to our geology degrees we saw evidence of the volcanic eruptions
that formed these lands, including crystallised lava flows, ash and pyroclastic
deposits and lava bombs. We surmised, perhaps in error, that the volcano that
created Providence and Santa Catalina was now extinct. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Those in the know say that the first humans
to arrive around 400 years ago were Miskito Indians who navigated across from
the Central American Caribbean coast in long dugout canoes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Historians state that British sailors washed
up on Providence in 1510 following a shipwreck. They named it Providence as it
was due to God or nature that this land saved them from a watery death. The
prefix of 'Old' was added later to distinguish the location from the Bahamas
site of New Providence. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The Spanish captain Diego de Nicuesa and his
expedition team discovered Santa Catalina on 25 Nov 1510 and San Andres 5 days
later, giving them the names of Catholic saints corresponding to the dates the
islands were discovered. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">San Andres, Old Providence and Santa
Catalina became recognisable navigational aides since their hills could be seen
from afar warning any navigator of the surrounding barrier reefs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">History states that in1629 the first
settlements were instated by the arrival of English Puritans from New England.
The Puritan adventurers arrived on the Seaflower, the sister ship of the
Mayflower which some 56 years previous had taken another group of British
Puritans to Massachusetts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The British returned many times to the
islands. There is evidence to suggest that Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe
published in 1719 was inspired by a story of a castaway sailor that survived 8
years in the North Cays of the archipelago.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Old Providence served as a refuge for
audacious buccaneers and pirates, many in search of adventure, fame and
treasure. These desires, the protection of the British Crown and the mutual aim
to fight the Spaniards brought the pirates and puritans together. Of notoriety
was the famous pirate Henry Morgan (now mostly remembered by the rum of the
same name), who used them as a base for his famous attack on Panama. Sir Henry
Morgan was welsh and a colourful character, who was a pirate and an admiral of
the Royal Navy. He is famous for raiding mostly Spanish settlements and was
very successful. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Around 1740 British colonisers with African
slaves arrived from Jamaica and developed sugar cane and cotton plantations. English
- Spanish wars ended in 1786. The islands became Spanish possession becoming
part of Great Colombia and later Colombia after the Spanish colony’s
independence.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Today on the island we found that there is
not much patriotism towards Colombia, which hasn't ben particularly welcoming or supportive to the islanders traditions, culture and language. Many folks we talked too freely expressed
strong sentiment that they wanted to be independent, and also wished they were
still part of the Commonwealth like their neighbours the Cayman Islands and
Jamaica. It is a unique place and we hope that Colombia embraces the wonderful diversity within its boarders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Providence viewed from one of its small Cays or island outcrops</span></div>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hHVBoIE24_rX0LEM1OPulq_HdGNaIL40fcz95exVOSp9BA_1uJmXfn0FitT6s9yWXYV6eD_BpzA32jasQxj9laFprxK-YQym3c0FULX0qG-TwDyiOtfwLkb-WZqqiPL7KhpErDjqK4B/s1600/IMG_0037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hHVBoIE24_rX0LEM1OPulq_HdGNaIL40fcz95exVOSp9BA_1uJmXfn0FitT6s9yWXYV6eD_BpzA32jasQxj9laFprxK-YQym3c0FULX0qG-TwDyiOtfwLkb-WZqqiPL7KhpErDjqK4B/s400/IMG_0037.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The remnants of Fort Warwick built to keep the Spanish at bay</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vfLYoxmzTERSDfyc-nq0xS4vICLW4Q50jn3q95ovKFao4vic7b0D0mZpqwFweIQsFIobjrnOqwCy7MPdVeacrYVTUhtMIhkbHt0kJ4JTOxPo449wszN6lZ1x39VC_AC2wTx-Pxse7an8/s1600/IMG_0231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vfLYoxmzTERSDfyc-nq0xS4vICLW4Q50jn3q95ovKFao4vic7b0D0mZpqwFweIQsFIobjrnOqwCy7MPdVeacrYVTUhtMIhkbHt0kJ4JTOxPo449wszN6lZ1x39VC_AC2wTx-Pxse7an8/s400/IMG_0231.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUj7utBZMv6ydC1g6i2H_pqZZJ938bcNHcJ82h_Pjx-7c9YfblMXMrq0fPJxGGmJyPx22TOPUXnPU83VP_r5uBAc03O5El9HFLjk1lKOsC0VwjYArYfISzsH82dbrxrBxWhUE42Sd2bIRU/s1600/IMG_0234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUj7utBZMv6ydC1g6i2H_pqZZJ938bcNHcJ82h_Pjx-7c9YfblMXMrq0fPJxGGmJyPx22TOPUXnPU83VP_r5uBAc03O5El9HFLjk1lKOsC0VwjYArYfISzsH82dbrxrBxWhUE42Sd2bIRU/s400/IMG_0234.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many of the older buildings in the main town have a colonial Caribbean feel to them</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrjtEZX4NxaaNrw-O2XfgJG-kauYMX37MS1l8714UJYWqG_W2LUSp5Axpsu7AJABGkd4R2fYRdY8C5L8bk53RAW0bc0WkcUpvkV-1KCk1UlEY-Si0e6unHI1aSD8h93mukPK_AykaMHEQ/s1600/IMG_0256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrjtEZX4NxaaNrw-O2XfgJG-kauYMX37MS1l8714UJYWqG_W2LUSp5Axpsu7AJABGkd4R2fYRdY8C5L8bk53RAW0bc0WkcUpvkV-1KCk1UlEY-Si0e6unHI1aSD8h93mukPK_AykaMHEQ/s400/IMG_0256.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was the Governor's House, now home to the local government and Mayors office</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The walk through the forested Santa Catalina to find Morgan's Head is dotted with colourful images regarding the history and folklore of the islands</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxPjYEEv0OBq3iu2Yt-wh8kawVvfdYMX1owSwx_zZ8UPQcmDU1JIrJH6ZJ015B9ZIlPW1gwRIXQVPrsmQ1vRu-V4Z8ycbF5xy4hhooCNvb8iFHWGfhxZ42F5Bzj5tBFAsZdWVA7J6NaAdx/s1600/IMG_0465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxPjYEEv0OBq3iu2Yt-wh8kawVvfdYMX1owSwx_zZ8UPQcmDU1JIrJH6ZJ015B9ZIlPW1gwRIXQVPrsmQ1vRu-V4Z8ycbF5xy4hhooCNvb8iFHWGfhxZ42F5Bzj5tBFAsZdWVA7J6NaAdx/s400/IMG_0465.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Rumour has it the treasure accumulated by the pirate Henry Morgan when he sacked Panama was brought back to Providence and his hidden somewhere on the island</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bwfkIWh6uJ0aqLwwVGPbYKloyflvi1PY0LeoUQWrKqqi53Y7plKe617hhOoPVjRHMAGPt7DhEtjMXaaZssrFldhA4BZBiyMCfRHy3E_P44mrpI1Bx0Ak6xxlri08sCYVhPRsOQqZNzxM/s1600/IMG_0468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bwfkIWh6uJ0aqLwwVGPbYKloyflvi1PY0LeoUQWrKqqi53Y7plKe617hhOoPVjRHMAGPt7DhEtjMXaaZssrFldhA4BZBiyMCfRHy3E_P44mrpI1Bx0Ak6xxlri08sCYVhPRsOQqZNzxM/s400/IMG_0468.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Captain Morgan's ghost still walks the beaches of Providence, with his parrot on his shoulder a bottle of rum in one hand, a cutlass in the other and a girl under each arm</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hZh8d7PvqEeCtkm6fKdEnGB2LT4BKVqGuI7LbrzA8q-juHW-D0y-9SaiBR4eyaVNs5kp2XEg3Y62gkaG1FKaPffsNAznsNJ3f2FjaXaI6I4DEDeTRpwv0WGv56HJDTzhYkc2GvLeqgYV/s1600/IMG_0469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hZh8d7PvqEeCtkm6fKdEnGB2LT4BKVqGuI7LbrzA8q-juHW-D0y-9SaiBR4eyaVNs5kp2XEg3Y62gkaG1FKaPffsNAznsNJ3f2FjaXaI6I4DEDeTRpwv0WGv56HJDTzhYkc2GvLeqgYV/s400/IMG_0469.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The famed Morgan's Head - I can't see it myself but apparently his nose fell off during a storm last year!!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AWdQdK_ARWkEfWcmr_RQWfc56Y7QsLKxhyl6FtiVJxAWNgbdixhfBjnUgfWlev1-dsLpgG1mbkpWRTmo98XkGQkN4vpYv-yKznhuyMo6uBBvFVQWQD4o71kYfLjCQB8TRXKLberMOuWx/s1600/IMG_0476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AWdQdK_ARWkEfWcmr_RQWfc56Y7QsLKxhyl6FtiVJxAWNgbdixhfBjnUgfWlev1-dsLpgG1mbkpWRTmo98XkGQkN4vpYv-yKznhuyMo6uBBvFVQWQD4o71kYfLjCQB8TRXKLberMOuWx/s400/IMG_0476.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ghost of Henry Morgan?!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMSskCQaMQ2KtaHjyR5eN3RrzoXbtYOHCnawdMk-_FhKOuQaxRCP12KXedGd55KEYk99pa81Ch6Z2_GjbcaQDqZND_NAh8LzphJBl3IuHe5t-oVqVMyhgsP4G5shyMaNS57uIW3-ae61e/s1600/IMG_0479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMSskCQaMQ2KtaHjyR5eN3RrzoXbtYOHCnawdMk-_FhKOuQaxRCP12KXedGd55KEYk99pa81Ch6Z2_GjbcaQDqZND_NAh8LzphJBl3IuHe5t-oVqVMyhgsP4G5shyMaNS57uIW3-ae61e/s400/IMG_0479.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">More guns to defend the narrow straits between Santa Catalina and Providence - the only safe harbour around the islands</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqp3si03gqey8Np9bb-WHYVkw3HVYTUyVTIeSsdIgYvQWTeVWvQOTihFSO2KKLQaZ0uSW_oWChQtUiNrRoYBsoz9Yadg0mZ9oVRsmDb0VdQCTgmSM_NQaYTCBd0mDRUTFxeyF15ySzsuKt/s1600/IMG_0489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqp3si03gqey8Np9bb-WHYVkw3HVYTUyVTIeSsdIgYvQWTeVWvQOTihFSO2KKLQaZ0uSW_oWChQtUiNrRoYBsoz9Yadg0mZ9oVRsmDb0VdQCTgmSM_NQaYTCBd0mDRUTFxeyF15ySzsuKt/s400/IMG_0489.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Rocky islands called Cays appear on the northern and north-eastern sides of Providence</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifYQdrofzvhZS-c2VMiP430VPVmfQWJ17OY3EmLuQ_hey_Fo3pg7D81p6NNiAswQ-eUBnPfRbU3pqMOY1L00qmLsJETEye9huollyFfQ2SN9cDuz0-MdbziK-ytxtQJwTYaPIbdWmf_gx/s1600/IMG_0587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifYQdrofzvhZS-c2VMiP430VPVmfQWJ17OY3EmLuQ_hey_Fo3pg7D81p6NNiAswQ-eUBnPfRbU3pqMOY1L00qmLsJETEye9huollyFfQ2SN9cDuz0-MdbziK-ytxtQJwTYaPIbdWmf_gx/s400/IMG_0587.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The waters around the islands allegedly contain 7 shades of blue - can you see them all?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSxeH966jpO6JadKj3sYQ9H7Zmi7jF8mQt5JIWnoEQKP6an9T5wa6JlRR7E4mN2bX3GaAg0-DCToAJi05u-4C4jbhgz3agRQkaAhQmXKAwRbonWgSIRl0Bh8-eOiqFfYngIxg7VQL_ykG/s1600/IMG_9985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSxeH966jpO6JadKj3sYQ9H7Zmi7jF8mQt5JIWnoEQKP6an9T5wa6JlRR7E4mN2bX3GaAg0-DCToAJi05u-4C4jbhgz3agRQkaAhQmXKAwRbonWgSIRl0Bh8-eOiqFfYngIxg7VQL_ykG/s400/IMG_9985.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-35614384105534550482015-05-21T03:25:00.000+02:002015-05-21T03:25:53.675+02:00Colombian Caribbean<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Traveling 480km from the Colombian coast we
landed on the neighbouring islands of Old Providence and Santa Catalina. These
fertile mountainous islands are set in the emerald Caribbean sea, 180km from
central America and 400km SW of Jamaica. Together they consist of an area of
20km sq. Surrounding the islands is an oceanic platform which stretches 100km
sq. This contains patch, fringing and barrier reefs, along with marine grasses
and mangroves. The tidal variation was small, up to 50cm, and the water
temperature was around 26C. For the islanders their relationship with the sea is
still a key part of daily life and island culture.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We booked a B&B or 'posada' on the
eastern side of the larger island of Providence run by a wonderful lady called
Carmeni. We arrived towards the end of April during the dry season. The rain
was awaited by parched grasses and flowers and their domestic grazers of horses
and cattle. Providence experiences a steady arid climate, at a near constant
28C, but it felt hotter in the sun. The next few paragraphs and future posts
talk more about these tiny dots in the middle of the ocean, which was to be our
home for three weeks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We found out that there are no native
mammals on the islands except for some bats. Driving on our rented moped around
the one road which encircles Providence we could see that domestic cattle
raising causes serious problems of erosion and contributes to the shortage of
water. The dusty hills are parched dry and what little grass there was had been
devoured by the cattle. We commonly spotted land Crabs, mosquitos, beetles, ants,
iguanas, geckos, blue lizards and a myriad of bird life. Due to the islands
location it is an important pit stop for migratory birds flying between North
and South America. It was a relief to know that there are no venomous snakes on
the islands, but we were told we might find the smallest snake in the world
called the silver snake. We didn't find it, but it is really small! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">This natural environment is yet to be
heavily corrupted by 'progress'. Thankfully there are no big hotel chains, we
saw no cruise ships swarm into dock and tourist or foreign access is strictly
time limited, a maximum of 3 months per year for any non-native of the island. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Richer in ancient traditions than the
neighbouring island of San Andres (90km to the south) Providence has a powerful
identity and passionate history. The local people are termed Raizal whom have
British, European and African heritages. Generations of Robinsons, Archbolds,
Newballs, Britons, Taylors, Byrons and Howards have lived on Providence. It is clear
they are proud of their mixed heritage and we heard many an explanation of an
individual's linage being traced to a sailor from England, Scotland or Ireland.
They speak a heavily accented clipped English, which has similarities to Jamaican
Creole. Once we got our ear in, we could roughly follow 50% of a conversation. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The islanders we met during our stay were
easy going. One example of this is not working more than necessary: “if
paradise is lost when you have to work, the local doesn’t see why it cant be
regained without too much effort, especially since he lives in it.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Throughout the hamlets of Lazy Hill, Bottom
House, Rocky Point, Old Town, to name a few, hammocks are hung on every veranda.
In the afternoon, generally from 1 to 4 or 5 they sway to and fro following the
measure of the breeze and in its absence inventing one itself. Relaxing with a
book, listen to music, being with ones thoughts or dozing is a treat to be
savoured as this pendulum brings a comforting and primeval rhythm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Playing dominoes is a very popular islander
pastime. We didn't partake but we certainly heard the games. They play it
quietly at first but as the end approaches sounds of triumph and desperation
are heard, whilst the slapping of domino pieces against table tops gets more
vigorous and louder!</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">As the bananas flower the local birds feed</span></div>
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<br />
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A magnified view of Providence's location in the Caribbean</div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
A busy day at south west beach</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSpLjiL1ntlfE_lMvoW4zTgQqIAgpGgeVFuF3Mbwj3XfcaMJpQIyTikjIWtOSGNpslp26E1c1nc76M3agLcVP-wm9J8EsfRVlWVBagKUXwqyMgob3zTUt5uWN_0xmTsJZqDDpBIe4gNQq/s1600/IMG_0281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSpLjiL1ntlfE_lMvoW4zTgQqIAgpGgeVFuF3Mbwj3XfcaMJpQIyTikjIWtOSGNpslp26E1c1nc76M3agLcVP-wm9J8EsfRVlWVBagKUXwqyMgob3zTUt5uWN_0xmTsJZqDDpBIe4gNQq/s400/IMG_0281.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The local dive boat returns and the horse gets taken for its afternoon bath to cool off</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
The fisherman gut their fish at the shore providing a feast for the swooping Man O Wars</div>
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The beautifully iridescent blue lizard prowls the garden of our Posada</div>
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The floating bridge that joins Providence to Santa Catalina</div>
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Safe anchorage off Santa Catalina sheltered from the easterly winds - the tree is not so fortunate</div>
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The north tip of Providence from Santa Catalina</div>
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The turquoise waters of Crab Cey a tiny island a few kilometres off shore</div>
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These little fellas are everywhere jumping from rock to rock</div>
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Hermit crabs emerge at night rustling through the leaf debris</div>
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Hummingbirds are everywhere and are regular visitors to our Posada garden</div>
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Home sweet home - the ground floor is ours and Carmini's family has upstairs</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-53858221787797440552015-05-18T18:21:00.002+02:002015-05-18T18:21:47.418+02:00Vibrant Valpairiso<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Two hours west of Santiago you find the twisting alleys, creaking
funicular, towering town houses and multi-coloured, muralled walls of Valparaiso. The town clings to the hillside surrounding the deep natural harbour
that plays home to the Chilean navy. The old town is packed with beautiful
grand Spanish colonial buildings, imposing as they tower over the shabby squares
and busy streets.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The best way to enjoy Valparaiso is to duck into one of it's many
twisting passages, follow their convoluted course up stairs, under archways,
through alleys and begin your exploration. Everywhere you turn bright murals
gaze back at you, some comical, others historical and others just downright
bizarre.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We were based near the old port, half way up the steep slopes above the
harbour, surrounded by huge town houses in various states of dilapidation. Two
doors down was The Brecon, the only Welsh pub in South America (so the patron
claimed)! William had been in the Chilean Army and was stationed in South Wales
on two occasions, falling in love with the place and it's people. He produced
great craft beer and a mean burger to go with it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The neighbouring town of Vina del Mar is a sharp contrast, with its
neat grid system, graffiti absent buildings and pedestrianised shopping streets
lacked the charm of its older, chaotic rival. However, its museum does have one
of the original Easter Island heads set in its gardens so we toddled over for a
glimpse. We both agreed it was a lot shorter than we expected, maybe they only brought
over a small one!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What an angel!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN01SMODzPZwoKaHzwSAuh2AmmfGMNeO5fdbzDa8QABc62kf0UkquCZeE128l5i1BlrBnp3wAD67BGLxw7-FIXqXkl-bU8mexWu3Qa9kO-5jb8ZHmmcqc8v3bhZ53YYvd2pWzpJKTkmu60/s1600/IMG_9519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN01SMODzPZwoKaHzwSAuh2AmmfGMNeO5fdbzDa8QABc62kf0UkquCZeE128l5i1BlrBnp3wAD67BGLxw7-FIXqXkl-bU8mexWu3Qa9kO-5jb8ZHmmcqc8v3bhZ53YYvd2pWzpJKTkmu60/s400/IMG_9519.jpg" width="298" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Amazing murals and graffiti adorn the streets</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_eLwzKU-mEmqBVYvehYaiGAHel7_ionDwLazrZpxY5P_iipR9lQhUm7Ty4LFfyIzcj3ECnA_RaiKvIWLPwfWzHrsGqIreRq7dlaN1cpUhEHPuO73SiNBcf8kgcyBhr7LKRYaLyqas54OR/s1600/IMG_9564.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_eLwzKU-mEmqBVYvehYaiGAHel7_ionDwLazrZpxY5P_iipR9lQhUm7Ty4LFfyIzcj3ECnA_RaiKvIWLPwfWzHrsGqIreRq7dlaN1cpUhEHPuO73SiNBcf8kgcyBhr7LKRYaLyqas54OR/s400/IMG_9564.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The poet, diplomate and politician Pablo Neruda lived for a time in Valpairiso, his house is now a museum dedicated to his poetry and there's multiple images of him around the city</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEMD6J_CAwQEuEZRmee5AAfJWH6wVZQqbvXwEf7_v1bcTG1oCmeutXsg5St6XxXdhggWtlAYiCuWO59QPITOM8LoNhYOLNSpe1_DLjzO8zvCiaip5rXoRBzzimeKZGgPPxzR4wzmXSNpc/s1600/IMG_9523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEMD6J_CAwQEuEZRmee5AAfJWH6wVZQqbvXwEf7_v1bcTG1oCmeutXsg5St6XxXdhggWtlAYiCuWO59QPITOM8LoNhYOLNSpe1_DLjzO8zvCiaip5rXoRBzzimeKZGgPPxzR4wzmXSNpc/s400/IMG_9523.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVLk-jRQzqKVeNlFkoHVM3mkDjZZZApffxVNNNSEuz6-_ZTNDy5gkDIeHqbJ6OqOs0gHnNBYC9Dy9fsVjW77DeOdlfEjKWXxMfcRYRx0hiRma1It-FyBLBNDpLTqOSTSq5NkgR1PqTvBk/s1600/IMG_9525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVLk-jRQzqKVeNlFkoHVM3mkDjZZZApffxVNNNSEuz6-_ZTNDy5gkDIeHqbJ6OqOs0gHnNBYC9Dy9fsVjW77DeOdlfEjKWXxMfcRYRx0hiRma1It-FyBLBNDpLTqOSTSq5NkgR1PqTvBk/s400/IMG_9525.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The chaotic jumble of Valpairiso sprawl from the port up the steep slopes that surround the natural harbour</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_DpcsopfppKOTkEECE9cUC4TDeftPWjpDbApg8GRAlDz97ai7vhvuQE_wEhwc6PmUgNdym2lkWl-Yup0J9lER_MSLqhwrQf15-tEMUo9YjsKT3ANT58g7Phn67z4_Y-2RmWczRzKEI24/s1600/IMG_9528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_DpcsopfppKOTkEECE9cUC4TDeftPWjpDbApg8GRAlDz97ai7vhvuQE_wEhwc6PmUgNdym2lkWl-Yup0J9lER_MSLqhwrQf15-tEMUo9YjsKT3ANT58g7Phn67z4_Y-2RmWczRzKEI24/s400/IMG_9528.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Murals are everywhere, some are huge!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PKuflfE2wKzfX8dttU_ypUWnoyxKhvg4vxc0Ljo1FvdAC1LvrxARMqqxl1tRNUGXVmE8SJTQrRAExnvfb-PzXRP1o9eDGxe_go1erxlTsnPj18g9SGbhrugnrEfy4QpcKJGPv80YED4y/s1600/IMG_9529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PKuflfE2wKzfX8dttU_ypUWnoyxKhvg4vxc0Ljo1FvdAC1LvrxARMqqxl1tRNUGXVmE8SJTQrRAExnvfb-PzXRP1o9eDGxe_go1erxlTsnPj18g9SGbhrugnrEfy4QpcKJGPv80YED4y/s400/IMG_9529.jpg" width="226" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The traditional buildings keep pace with the graffiti, showing off their own vibrant colours</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLx1eXjjYOA6q8A0sxtI8pKKYCH7XH7ujh7nJZSw4yrBMPpxt56_dqVnaKzw99RJJCf2aNBLnEJUw-Cy15BEDr0QX1xjEVxLBpGgwNn_ABMB4GYrHHak70fPMysHXArdajU3y6lustRZQW/s1600/IMG_9533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLx1eXjjYOA6q8A0sxtI8pKKYCH7XH7ujh7nJZSw4yrBMPpxt56_dqVnaKzw99RJJCf2aNBLnEJUw-Cy15BEDr0QX1xjEVxLBpGgwNn_ABMB4GYrHHak70fPMysHXArdajU3y6lustRZQW/s400/IMG_9533.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_VZuvycTFmhb8CNjGXaY6xs4Qi64Ye1PhVDUw5IryY7q099Ov7CmH4MsNG8GaYKciIYsUm0F1mB3wyftLJVrr5tCQOwKhiHl-r_cZngGprQosiQGj4bKUQJ2D3YWQITFoWagVs2FqRXZ2/s1600/IMG_9535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_VZuvycTFmhb8CNjGXaY6xs4Qi64Ye1PhVDUw5IryY7q099Ov7CmH4MsNG8GaYKciIYsUm0F1mB3wyftLJVrr5tCQOwKhiHl-r_cZngGprQosiQGj4bKUQJ2D3YWQITFoWagVs2FqRXZ2/s400/IMG_9535.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There have been up to 26 working funicular railways in the town, the earliest dating from the 1880s</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmN6fGzJ_PR5YEQultoBcV1xC-giH3AMOmn0fcMVyU8ysae7zha5eXuwJwMlgkfujXXNEpzp7DrPBAE3f8J-l6vWmI9z2JHoWsRR3hyaIIHc9F2vhZY4Z3CEVIVwtfb7Xtlar94-EFwV30/s1600/IMG_9537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmN6fGzJ_PR5YEQultoBcV1xC-giH3AMOmn0fcMVyU8ysae7zha5eXuwJwMlgkfujXXNEpzp7DrPBAE3f8J-l6vWmI9z2JHoWsRR3hyaIIHc9F2vhZY4Z3CEVIVwtfb7Xtlar94-EFwV30/s400/IMG_9537.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is a significant naval presence here</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYS1D35eIj05crckrGGa-kbhgR7y64E1C30KMi6Z_W9RP3qetcXPEnxXGVbm00hbKJaWwaBvoQmMPVZSzb6SJdkCc0KebS58xjkO2ajyuo4wTmGKNjEGxkl2_PLuNtMqI65HvIBRP9wFf/s1600/IMG_9541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYS1D35eIj05crckrGGa-kbhgR7y64E1C30KMi6Z_W9RP3qetcXPEnxXGVbm00hbKJaWwaBvoQmMPVZSzb6SJdkCc0KebS58xjkO2ajyuo4wTmGKNjEGxkl2_PLuNtMqI65HvIBRP9wFf/s400/IMG_9541.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rivers are pretty dry this time of year - a handy overflow car park (no pun intended)</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg806h4DXiJrcYb8IeeZmKZPcsg9LTZHkJEJhDYtmIn_R964ZiM9tkoAvboqUlPVw0cuaV0JWJRE0neAdx5JnF17H_mmpD7EnR-oKLAM9wnMy5CnLUaxQmFCkO9424rmF7abI3MyysZxPiY/s1600/IMG_9542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg806h4DXiJrcYb8IeeZmKZPcsg9LTZHkJEJhDYtmIn_R964ZiM9tkoAvboqUlPVw0cuaV0JWJRE0neAdx5JnF17H_mmpD7EnR-oKLAM9wnMy5CnLUaxQmFCkO9424rmF7abI3MyysZxPiY/s400/IMG_9542.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We might not make it to Easter Island but at least we've met this guy!</span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-46727862994108859232015-05-11T17:07:00.000+02:002015-05-11T17:07:39.535+02:00Chiloe<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our dear friend Julia (a tailor from Berlin) told me "you
definitely have to see the island Chiloé in Chile" so we went. It's the
second largest island in Chile, the first being Terra de Fuego which we visited
whilst down at Chile’s furthest southern point. Chiloe runs 41 degrees 47S to
43 degrees 26S parallel to the Andes. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We arrived by bus from Puerto Montt. Lonely Planet states that the
best thing about Puerto Montt is 'it's numerous exit points' which is a tad
uncharitable but we did heed their advice. Four hours after utilising one of
the said exits we found ourselves surrounded by windswept pastureland and
undulating hills of Chiloé. We alighted at Castro, the island’s capital, which
is in the centre of the island on the eastern shore (in the rain shadow). The
western side of this island, with its mountainous central spine, meets the
Pacific ocean and is accordingly much wetter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst staying in a homely, family run hostel, from our window we
regularly spotted pods of dolphins in the naturally scalloped bay. Castro had a
cold and humid climate. That said, heating was a luxury we often found lacking.
It became the norm to wear two fleece jackets at all times, that included even
when eating and sometimes also in bed! We found that the Spanish spoken in
Chile is much faster than in Argentina and locals in Castro had a strong
regional accent. Generally our listening is getting much better and we can now
most often be understood. One unfortunate miscommunication with a hairdresser
did result in a rather visual shock as poor Chris lost most of his curly locks
and is now sporting a popular Chilean skin head. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Visiting the local museum we learnt that Chiloé was home to hunter
gatherer small holdings until the Spanish arrived in 1567. Due to its
geographical isolation from the mainland Chiloé remained a stronghold of the
Spanish for eight years longer than the rest of an independent Chile, only
joining it in 1826. The islanders exhibit strong ties to both the sea and the
land, with the Spanish describing them as having one foot on land and one in
the water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is characterised by the local dish: Curanto. For lunch one day
brave Chris munched his way through an average sized portion of this 'soup'
which contained mussels, giant mussels, clams, chicken, gammon, chorizo
sausage, potatoes, dumpling and fish broth. Very filling and a bargain at £4.
Seafood was the main dish here and I tried fresh sea urchins (their
reproductive organs to be exact). These go for mega bucks in Japan but here are
a local speciality and tasted like the scent of roses. They were
absolutely delicious. They came with garnish of lime, chopped onions and
parsley and were eaten raw. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We took Chile's southern highway, the <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">Carretera Austral, north to Puerto Montt, which involved as many hours afloat as on the bus</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyRAond1tIi0zMARR5TYWDzwg3TueDdk-zVWtNfQ8BLF8leLnHGevrWw-MMYZyCznh2qT3yd-qnyUS34PDN12HIgaKKXZKg8uqPMfmcjLXOnisgAgISO8cswvhiFtovPkFzEmcR8DyhutA/s1600/IMG_9397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyRAond1tIi0zMARR5TYWDzwg3TueDdk-zVWtNfQ8BLF8leLnHGevrWw-MMYZyCznh2qT3yd-qnyUS34PDN12HIgaKKXZKg8uqPMfmcjLXOnisgAgISO8cswvhiFtovPkFzEmcR8DyhutA/s400/IMG_9397.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The view from our hostel window over the sheltered bay of Castro</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxn_hbyW-dluSv4nCL-t3txS8O4xbSge5y91DCJq4t90-kDQaszCpadHtxvokasX36uvUzLN73cCHyuhkdZakNpoaTqBmtxk7fz_mMtGQ2mMuh9CBmlowxoyPpLw4l8Thd84TMm_HatW8/s1600/IMG_9405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxn_hbyW-dluSv4nCL-t3txS8O4xbSge5y91DCJq4t90-kDQaszCpadHtxvokasX36uvUzLN73cCHyuhkdZakNpoaTqBmtxk7fz_mMtGQ2mMuh9CBmlowxoyPpLw4l8Thd84TMm_HatW8/s400/IMG_9405.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYM4KavmYZyxMKnd8df0La6c8QyrkZtm-V-LP6k-P0Okf9YEr-qolX38Bg1PRQJAVeSzXo8fadD2W-OOZLaqQAtVeMZGqXbq1aGYu0w5PhlG35PvOzZ4NfJcpNogkYKQsQWPpacphNTptT/s1600/IMG_9409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYM4KavmYZyxMKnd8df0La6c8QyrkZtm-V-LP6k-P0Okf9YEr-qolX38Bg1PRQJAVeSzXo8fadD2W-OOZLaqQAtVeMZGqXbq1aGYu0w5PhlG35PvOzZ4NfJcpNogkYKQsQWPpacphNTptT/s400/IMG_9409.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikLX2h50CV8LY1XkGGAVHEskZnHsYMnvbNf-W8sI5IJZqsTCF1bySJAYcygdr73cZAd1mCsnZ_89-5dy6XJEyPMgPBDNutBwEnows4_2nTbHAjtilGsc_SHAmder0LyAB3f2rlOTPQKyBE/s1600/IMG_9411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikLX2h50CV8LY1XkGGAVHEskZnHsYMnvbNf-W8sI5IJZqsTCF1bySJAYcygdr73cZAd1mCsnZ_89-5dy6XJEyPMgPBDNutBwEnows4_2nTbHAjtilGsc_SHAmder0LyAB3f2rlOTPQKyBE/s400/IMG_9411.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The town had some very colourful murals</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1zCtTd6tsyRqMQQwnOM9fAuqTTocmsZlfkZhNJCEzkBtZ5uiKw_bH9nTxqkhMT3mtq5OqalBiOXendH3z4HjaFHsVe0_nTdTt5TguUtVNOWKCXTzT9ZE-oYFTmFS4HW86JxpCsZjiYiPY/s1600/IMG_9413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1zCtTd6tsyRqMQQwnOM9fAuqTTocmsZlfkZhNJCEzkBtZ5uiKw_bH9nTxqkhMT3mtq5OqalBiOXendH3z4HjaFHsVe0_nTdTt5TguUtVNOWKCXTzT9ZE-oYFTmFS4HW86JxpCsZjiYiPY/s400/IMG_9413.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The impressive San Francisco Chirch in the centre of Castro is constructed with wood from the area such as
the alerce, cypress, coigüe and other native wood. The
interiors are made of Rauli Beech and olivillo;
however the facade, roof and exterior lining are sheets and shingles made of galvanised iron.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcE70i_x6o7JWu7P-O5kxqLnC6dub-vvqY2fw1Baon-sJaRX-Q0_v9fdBaQxhKO68vusAPFktQMppRV_niqC06ZgoUTsYw14sqIKTKY5fNrARUFeqDE331IqHyt4R-5PuL3jrTVYc47hvY/s1600/IMG_9420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcE70i_x6o7JWu7P-O5kxqLnC6dub-vvqY2fw1Baon-sJaRX-Q0_v9fdBaQxhKO68vusAPFktQMppRV_niqC06ZgoUTsYw14sqIKTKY5fNrARUFeqDE331IqHyt4R-5PuL3jrTVYc47hvY/s400/IMG_9420.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">..and of course very brightly painted! Over 30 of Chiloe's churches are listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBLkEzpwf93-0RyshtrR0kqP3seyqS8ZIfK99Rq-lwIioMID68DKTK_GiOlsCtvOMwqWKv7fldVrUQiU_mm9Q3A_WHrkdLhpgD0do2hOI7pE-tEvCQSnidOwWqKsCLDAHSlPgsFa4UFSu/s1600/IMG_9427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBLkEzpwf93-0RyshtrR0kqP3seyqS8ZIfK99Rq-lwIioMID68DKTK_GiOlsCtvOMwqWKv7fldVrUQiU_mm9Q3A_WHrkdLhpgD0do2hOI7pE-tEvCQSnidOwWqKsCLDAHSlPgsFa4UFSu/s400/IMG_9427.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wooden shingled buildings are still very common</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijw24sIxCEaZWB9XKkmwQo0TM8QPTGxnzp7KaCmLP9iwkyuOAfP8jPIGLooin_XEtl-_4xW98xOcM2hIVLerooXvSrzyGU-121TOXQ39uuEZxmy8lfqHrDODG0b86sR0H7HkSl0lryJKQN/s1600/IMG_9441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijw24sIxCEaZWB9XKkmwQo0TM8QPTGxnzp7KaCmLP9iwkyuOAfP8jPIGLooin_XEtl-_4xW98xOcM2hIVLerooXvSrzyGU-121TOXQ39uuEZxmy8lfqHrDODG0b86sR0H7HkSl0lryJKQN/s400/IMG_9441.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Down at the harbour however is where you find the best food</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUhuet3xYhDweKsp0egvUnejlC4Kj_dlbRpDEAxC7Rpqrq291vGCvK4_bHt7qOB36c01-azbM6Hi-d5Ec0h23rDVc2cXqJDkROofBClfWdj1Zbw_oSIyao3fhDC94PQ7TrFFBJ2fdbA3X/s1600/IMG_9446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUhuet3xYhDweKsp0egvUnejlC4Kj_dlbRpDEAxC7Rpqrq291vGCvK4_bHt7qOB36c01-azbM6Hi-d5Ec0h23rDVc2cXqJDkROofBClfWdj1Zbw_oSIyao3fhDC94PQ7TrFFBJ2fdbA3X/s400/IMG_9446.jpg" width="305" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These old stilted buildings used to be used for the unloading of fishing boats but now function as restaurants to the many tourists that visit Castro</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKoYxp7bmEo7DBsu43nshfjJI1x0pVD2GpqwOpLfZ1n2erKHQMdNKpRybAc75HFW_r0hoqPZ5MEjt5yYI6JMO8CqHVaDSYwapozTA8cUtDVxhE4kLS2Uhzp0V9bvHeATymArVwQw4jO8N1/s1600/IMG_9448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKoYxp7bmEo7DBsu43nshfjJI1x0pVD2GpqwOpLfZ1n2erKHQMdNKpRybAc75HFW_r0hoqPZ5MEjt5yYI6JMO8CqHVaDSYwapozTA8cUtDVxhE4kLS2Uhzp0V9bvHeATymArVwQw4jO8N1/s400/IMG_9448.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The food is amazing, particularly the local speciality Curanto - hungry anyone?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcNLwgAGKE1Gwxw2JoaGGAZZpbFmdUqwIiZfg3F7pcmTEmEM2e_50ugjUW67lFI7aTIoAFh4HL8iAkgAZHMctQOu0iYIGkduzUPWVdKsygfFy1rrjkUi3C6sUAgZKF1u7G35oUJ6O89hyphenhyphen/s1600/IMG_9452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcNLwgAGKE1Gwxw2JoaGGAZZpbFmdUqwIiZfg3F7pcmTEmEM2e_50ugjUW67lFI7aTIoAFh4HL8iAkgAZHMctQOu0iYIGkduzUPWVdKsygfFy1rrjkUi3C6sUAgZKF1u7G35oUJ6O89hyphenhyphen/s400/IMG_9452.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remnants of an earlier agricultural history lay dotted around the sea front</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0TMX43Fh9GzYXRqeAfJngDVEL1wborkSzFofADp_BMh2p2EQ4_u8S7pZOsNQKBPRgvSFFWIz8SF9scUOeMzVwbgJBYav5immX-qno5H_6mIILXwI0rmDzOgpCbN-sn3_tfrvUVPXQZLL/s1600/IMG_9460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0TMX43Fh9GzYXRqeAfJngDVEL1wborkSzFofADp_BMh2p2EQ4_u8S7pZOsNQKBPRgvSFFWIz8SF9scUOeMzVwbgJBYav5immX-qno5H_6mIILXwI0rmDzOgpCbN-sn3_tfrvUVPXQZLL/s400/IMG_9460.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Along with the old narrow gauge railway - construction began in 1909</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ZvKu0qM0iuMGPKoeDvsIzXDnuGDOkDHLaw7pIpTfaDllz1LyUKS-UIPnTlIVihoceqk0PIzcJLMOAJPETte85RtvDUduIpIeGe9GWc7GRIN7EHBjYEKmks2YSisfrS_BCY23fC_W4iKL/s1600/IMG_9462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ZvKu0qM0iuMGPKoeDvsIzXDnuGDOkDHLaw7pIpTfaDllz1LyUKS-UIPnTlIVihoceqk0PIzcJLMOAJPETte85RtvDUduIpIeGe9GWc7GRIN7EHBjYEKmks2YSisfrS_BCY23fC_W4iKL/s400/IMG_9462.jpg" width="275" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCJ1VFqKSs7OUJSI2G1gUqQAqTr0jHaUw2WyYd1KjP5mDC6AZvO_QDXadRCXoINuHfjU9iKZfLk-CPYwwxX5zk0ytSIeROdHU3tNbKz6BExJuSG3p96ZtWdxxKGOnnqupFkUhEcS7RWvh/s1600/IMG_9466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCJ1VFqKSs7OUJSI2G1gUqQAqTr0jHaUw2WyYd1KjP5mDC6AZvO_QDXadRCXoINuHfjU9iKZfLk-CPYwwxX5zk0ytSIeROdHU3tNbKz6BExJuSG3p96ZtWdxxKGOnnqupFkUhEcS7RWvh/s400/IMG_9466.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sea urchin sex organs anyone? </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8cCfbtWGcaX3dyyYf84UOrlMYmxSPtixAj0o2BHkmsqXP8JvwYa5mTp1Md-qCluhtoYSAD9z7uOlCCVi-Vn4pFDVcScNxnIM3KHFRdr4-sAwx072WpAzwLtsiMa8-RjYe07ZWFZsgUqb/s1600/IMG_9474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8cCfbtWGcaX3dyyYf84UOrlMYmxSPtixAj0o2BHkmsqXP8JvwYa5mTp1Md-qCluhtoYSAD9z7uOlCCVi-Vn4pFDVcScNxnIM3KHFRdr4-sAwx072WpAzwLtsiMa8-RjYe07ZWFZsgUqb/s400/IMG_9474.jpg" width="396" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The remnants from many a good meal of sea urchin and clams just tossed out the window and left on the shore</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfoCLaH0iRmoHPB3hFJbouLqeXflQTZ_dHtXeLgkuQqM6JuJWfjD3c5XImG2gVINLJDq-z4S69nMr2J7Uj2IPPaUT4aHoHJ14pFKCa3T5NkMljRMZf4rhFwwzAIHCom7dPUw1LDLVdFKhR/s1600/IMG_9482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfoCLaH0iRmoHPB3hFJbouLqeXflQTZ_dHtXeLgkuQqM6JuJWfjD3c5XImG2gVINLJDq-z4S69nMr2J7Uj2IPPaUT4aHoHJ14pFKCa3T5NkMljRMZf4rhFwwzAIHCom7dPUw1LDLVdFKhR/s320/IMG_9482.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR3KblIEMcWUcVDzyPodfvg6XbSs7He5N7en7hjtMdZV8aJZmk4quWJnEms8pv1IsaSEaOd1ZrcJg5Ma43G2p2KRGuu8jv8FGGrN9h2AreWQE9SFnC4tpwytRgl_2IZzCjfEtjY1niqqK1/s1600/IMG_9487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR3KblIEMcWUcVDzyPodfvg6XbSs7He5N7en7hjtMdZV8aJZmk4quWJnEms8pv1IsaSEaOd1ZrcJg5Ma43G2p2KRGuu8jv8FGGrN9h2AreWQE9SFnC4tpwytRgl_2IZzCjfEtjY1niqqK1/s400/IMG_9487.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Handbag made to measure down at the market just get your order in two hours in advance!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9FBqzIXqLNsFDf7FIw1KppDw95gifOtt-dy3GerSGh66BgMpWYU9FV-gSpHpgOotXndbvouCi6KGaUq0nAE-BvrbPT282QjS2zq6bhqpwYq8WOpmSQgJ3pLJgiW6z4qylrbQMtB55SKDf/s1600/IMG_9499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9FBqzIXqLNsFDf7FIw1KppDw95gifOtt-dy3GerSGh66BgMpWYU9FV-gSpHpgOotXndbvouCi6KGaUq0nAE-BvrbPT282QjS2zq6bhqpwYq8WOpmSQgJ3pLJgiW6z4qylrbQMtB55SKDf/s400/IMG_9499.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Home sweet home - the white house to the left of the steps</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVi-UnMA1cyBn1t4IBs09vMl7r6udejuJlK_Dmj3Juh9cf1Nw-ZZ8T8oa0a15qXLcBU9GhYVARWd_wMfflQ0n3t6TNpZdxC-9tV4h_xltL1YP6dGDneVYSQfNeM4178HCHbtv1jotaovP/s1600/IMG_9511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVi-UnMA1cyBn1t4IBs09vMl7r6udejuJlK_Dmj3Juh9cf1Nw-ZZ8T8oa0a15qXLcBU9GhYVARWd_wMfflQ0n3t6TNpZdxC-9tV4h_xltL1YP6dGDneVYSQfNeM4178HCHbtv1jotaovP/s400/IMG_9511.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-68216571320335967302015-05-07T17:25:00.000+02:002015-05-07T17:25:25.723+02:00Don't cry for me Argentina.....<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“….the truth is I never left you…” although technically we have! We
crossed the border into Chile on the early bus from Esquel bumping up and down
on what looked more like a farm track than a highway. We climbed for over an
hour up into the high pass. From here after a bit of bus swapping we reached
the cosy, quaint little town of Futaleufu, a beautiful alpine style village
surrounded by towering peaks and lush forests. The western side of the Andes
gets a considerably more rainfall and is much more green and vibrant than its
eastern neighbour. The gardens of the traditional wood shingle houses are full
of vegetables and fruit trees all fully laden with apples and pears. It’s the
first time we’d seen that for a long time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Futaleufu is becoming renowned for white water rafting and kayaking
on the river of the same name. Everything here is very seasonal however, so
most places were closed but we did find a cosy B&B in one of the traditional
wood shingled houses with a very welcoming family who we couldn’t understand at
all. Chileans mumble worse than your average British teenager! The house was
heated by the huge wood-burning range in the large family kitchen, the top
covered in pots of simmering stock, boiling potatoes and sumptuous soup – the
smells were divine. From our bedroom window we could look out over the town and
watch the chickens with their chicks scratching in the dirt of the vegetable
garden and the kittens playing on the tin roof of the shed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We took the 6am bus to Chaiten, passing past Park National Cocovado
with its towering snow capped summits amazing rock walls – requires a definite
future visit! At Chaiten we glimpsed our first sight of the Pacific Ocean since
we flew over it from New Zealand over a month ago. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chaiten is a small town that was formerly the capital of the region
until the local volcano erupted in 2008. The town was evacuated as it lies only
10km from the Chaiten Volcano and a few days later a Lahar (an ash laden flood) swept
through the town changing the rivers coarse, sweeping over 50 houses out into
the bay and completely reshaping the coastline. The Chilean government stalled
for over 2 years on its response, meaning no infrastructure was replaced and
those that chose to return had to fend for themselves. Now with a new
government they have promised to help rebuild the town but everything takes a
very long time down here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The volcanic eruption itself was very unusual <span lang="EN-US">as it was the first major explosive eruption of
rhyolite magma in nearly a century. Molten rhyolite is rarely found at the
surface, therefore this eruption has been of immense interest to
volcanologists.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We went for a trek with a Canadian guide, Nicholas, who has lived
here for over 30 years. He showed us the volcano, the damage caused to the
temperate rainforest by the pyroclastic flows and the lahars. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The damage to large parts of the forest was
evident, charred dead trees stood like natures’ monuments to the volcano’s
victims. However, nature is returning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nicholas talked us through the natural regeneration that is
happening in theses damaged areas which are full of giant hogweed and fuchsia
bushes nearly 12 feet tall, all full of busy bees. The young beech saplings are
starting to thrive and the mosses and lichens with them. He has been working
with researchers including volcanologists and botanists who have been studying
the volcano’s activity and the regeneration post eruption. This is all based in
the privately owned Parque Palena. The remainder of the park is in pristine condition,
having never been touched by people it is one of the best examples of pristine temperate
rainforest in the whole world and with a much higher biodiversity than other
temperate rainforests in USA, New Zealand and Tasmania. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The park is also home to some of the oldest trees on the planet, the
Alerce tree.<span lang="EN-US"> They are only found in the Andes Mountains
of south-central Chile. Using tree rings, scientists found one giant to be
3,620 years old. Though these Patagonian cypresses can reach 150 feet tall,
they gain only a millimeter in girth each year, and can take a thousand years
to be full-grown. The Zoroastrian Sarv and the Llangernyw yew are thought to be
older, but the Alerce is the second oldest tree to have its exact age
calculated.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is huge potential for outdoor enthusiasts and lovers of nature
in this stunning untouched area of southern Chile; jungles, mountains, fjords,
glaciers, volcanoes, rivers and very old primary forest. Much of this area is
untouched, just waiting to be explored.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our Posada, one of many traditional houses in Futaleufu - with non traditional satellite dish</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmTiXDMI3jZzKCxeJEpeleGUDGoiavmNzPN8lM-KKTHFQORj0wfe2fBDVmcUUOh4HXEspAbyEKGswRsNB5NOR6FhhsqOYEbWytwbp4UJke4w2zJsuFXutrznD1jG3TBKSF35DKe_Su1aV/s1600/IMG_9178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmTiXDMI3jZzKCxeJEpeleGUDGoiavmNzPN8lM-KKTHFQORj0wfe2fBDVmcUUOh4HXEspAbyEKGswRsNB5NOR6FhhsqOYEbWytwbp4UJke4w2zJsuFXutrznD1jG3TBKSF35DKe_Su1aV/s400/IMG_9178.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Even the church has shingles</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4mzMO5O4tFa7RwkIYsF7YtTawI5bohvsFnEBKYvSbrOeZ7YhpSa72NuDA-qYz3eRic25O6dlhJh8FmJ8-6ccmwxlU0g_GKTHJWtWJg2a3n82zU5RbLCqFEN3ARqs0hBf84xY1it9Yqlj/s1600/IMG_9186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4mzMO5O4tFa7RwkIYsF7YtTawI5bohvsFnEBKYvSbrOeZ7YhpSa72NuDA-qYz3eRic25O6dlhJh8FmJ8-6ccmwxlU0g_GKTHJWtWJg2a3n82zU5RbLCqFEN3ARqs0hBf84xY1it9Yqlj/s400/IMG_9186.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm not sure who lives here but I love it, complete with crooked stove pipe</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDweu8P_oVynrkHdPHdojRnSOetkM7l2CIar1xYCuhzB_ko-dPG0dAn-GBEGIbYrnL22RtsfQiron4t4pb0-dCt_fWRwS_kDscxZLTtge6ifFUxWC1qWJStQpF3dIzCtRcbjNsHdlDRAr3/s1600/IMG_9190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDweu8P_oVynrkHdPHdojRnSOetkM7l2CIar1xYCuhzB_ko-dPG0dAn-GBEGIbYrnL22RtsfQiron4t4pb0-dCt_fWRwS_kDscxZLTtge6ifFUxWC1qWJStQpF3dIzCtRcbjNsHdlDRAr3/s400/IMG_9190.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The coastal town of Chaiten. In the distance one of the many volcanoes within close proximity to the town. On the right is the ash and mud deposited by the volcanic lahar that swept through the town extending the coastline another 500m further out to sea. The former sea wall promenade is now completely landlocked!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUyvosGFBxa7aGiaGxfelSNyMEkKE9vDHXQnKWjdxxG2DcyNnfrzyNB9THCKrrFmPs7GOm6y5gRkFmbkBpjU0PccLllsf-ELDkaeVRHVxD6a-V2AxgoiZ8ouNSi9FVVM87UTngMhe1yvd/s1600/IMG_9204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUyvosGFBxa7aGiaGxfelSNyMEkKE9vDHXQnKWjdxxG2DcyNnfrzyNB9THCKrrFmPs7GOm6y5gRkFmbkBpjU0PccLllsf-ELDkaeVRHVxD6a-V2AxgoiZ8ouNSi9FVVM87UTngMhe1yvd/s400/IMG_9204.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shingled houses are still the norm, unfortunately many have been abandoned or severely damaged</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihmKn4sh9P-IpQLeg6tJhCdLzdBVTrMX3mhZLhxzCzmpzQ-MJjmFrgZuN3ec9VScjHJtgkq9TVdMFvn9cnls3ttNEMGwVCg7LtIyB3OuhMHYFCSWUOOGeEIMy2xZXO_3jykW0FMXBGDVDR/s1600/IMG_9206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihmKn4sh9P-IpQLeg6tJhCdLzdBVTrMX3mhZLhxzCzmpzQ-MJjmFrgZuN3ec9VScjHJtgkq9TVdMFvn9cnls3ttNEMGwVCg7LtIyB3OuhMHYFCSWUOOGeEIMy2xZXO_3jykW0FMXBGDVDR/s400/IMG_9206.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Volcano Chaiten 10km from town. The lava dome can be clearly seen, one of the fastest growing ever recorded during the time of the eruption. The damage from the pyroclastic flows can be clearly seen marked by the dead and felled tree trunks.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5_7tswtJV4qoQ9w9aaY-vIosnkypXDgloM4xb9BVd6LFq0u2yHy0jssuBI0Ofu2LqrEiPFmshQ90vE7OaNIZgUhSYBlPlVm6vbIf24rPZPTVrvQ2FfMCP7AR9FcNjXSTAJVoHRksyobd/s1600/IMG_9220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5_7tswtJV4qoQ9w9aaY-vIosnkypXDgloM4xb9BVd6LFq0u2yHy0jssuBI0Ofu2LqrEiPFmshQ90vE7OaNIZgUhSYBlPlVm6vbIf24rPZPTVrvQ2FfMCP7AR9FcNjXSTAJVoHRksyobd/s400/IMG_9220.jpg" width="282" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The regrowth contains slow growing southern beeches, giant hogweed and beautiful fuchsia trees some 12 feet tall! Spot the bee?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLvp9LsXyCbXDPtVQABDwhyphenhyphenmGsnxs5pnXmlgSe1pSOlR-wAw8lUThyphenhyphenRsZgBtNMgS7lUMdc_17RbwXRMqOfRBqE1HpduBmIG8l4lPHWu7YRAyysh-9xvPDjqIKiV2rGHr0ezNX1jKxYnWv/s1600/IMG_9239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLvp9LsXyCbXDPtVQABDwhyphenhyphenmGsnxs5pnXmlgSe1pSOlR-wAw8lUThyphenhyphenRsZgBtNMgS7lUMdc_17RbwXRMqOfRBqE1HpduBmIG8l4lPHWu7YRAyysh-9xvPDjqIKiV2rGHr0ezNX1jKxYnWv/s400/IMG_9239.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here we are on the edge of one of the lahars that swept through the valleys destroying everything in their path</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyu2iOxvLMrpn4c7jW4czDc2ppvpniSWrjJhEpjuLCkF_2OeV_hmFD1iQcxKJFXBkHzLtZQnUx2aVt5uoAiozyRw3PiMzM7sTwRpX8YNOdG99-agvlKFVW0BexLLcYjsqrCBIqA__7IK_Y/s1600/IMG_9255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyu2iOxvLMrpn4c7jW4czDc2ppvpniSWrjJhEpjuLCkF_2OeV_hmFD1iQcxKJFXBkHzLtZQnUx2aVt5uoAiozyRw3PiMzM7sTwRpX8YNOdG99-agvlKFVW0BexLLcYjsqrCBIqA__7IK_Y/s400/IMG_9255.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As well as being a very unusual rhyolitic eruption Chaiten Volcano produced huge amounts of obsidian - volcanic glass - this is produced when felsic lava with a very high silica content become very viscous and is extruded rapidly, cooling quickly and therefore has minimum crystal growth giving it a smooth glassy appearance.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYUZydDT4Li2_kJeFGnfI_wMDY3YOvjjpx-naflw5xRlJud91UwetVR9M_T1hiLpZgao3B5S74Sv_dzMNEFBKmIXY4tt2BGc6J3TY_rUR2RirCfG5dcGUMndkjrMQiunsm_OLgZ2gsNcN/s1600/IMG_9258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYUZydDT4Li2_kJeFGnfI_wMDY3YOvjjpx-naflw5xRlJud91UwetVR9M_T1hiLpZgao3B5S74Sv_dzMNEFBKmIXY4tt2BGc6J3TY_rUR2RirCfG5dcGUMndkjrMQiunsm_OLgZ2gsNcN/s320/IMG_9258.jpg" width="213" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Behind the people you can see the layers of ash and volcanic rock that were deposited from the lahar, pyroclastic flows and ash fallout</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc33qFRcY3bcijMshyK5gZOZaepPWAwh4Q_sSnFQWZ5SZI7o4i2pbYj7Yb5vzK_1zzb81cBxQzIN9YtZTKBZ9U684g2MGJMcMZSACkMfeyXCY6lcVro6zwVv6BtBqW9d792D0NwotqaBrX/s1600/IMG_9268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc33qFRcY3bcijMshyK5gZOZaepPWAwh4Q_sSnFQWZ5SZI7o4i2pbYj7Yb5vzK_1zzb81cBxQzIN9YtZTKBZ9U684g2MGJMcMZSACkMfeyXCY6lcVro6zwVv6BtBqW9d792D0NwotqaBrX/s400/IMG_9268.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Alerce trees - these ones are quite young, maybe only 1000 years old!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dxmbiGCXYP9s4dDvX3WvdnLPmxMsIM16jIikCqFTsUvOval1a1QWKYa81vDCJIpEDY1TBpWvFAdM8fvkwyBeSYoNJc6xeP77Nd7Pi1ijkPRJsJJhSUVRcLW2nCuiw6DRlPOz0GzaiNlL/s1600/IMG_9269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dxmbiGCXYP9s4dDvX3WvdnLPmxMsIM16jIikCqFTsUvOval1a1QWKYa81vDCJIpEDY1TBpWvFAdM8fvkwyBeSYoNJc6xeP77Nd7Pi1ijkPRJsJJhSUVRcLW2nCuiw6DRlPOz0GzaiNlL/s400/IMG_9269.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsLvmXqEdbpaJkflbghvNgo5H7doFEVkDWsZwoHpdzeGghzq7o5mVz_2xrrMPLd1tVBLXXUJBf93qi4DfYuh6AfilYfzLGeyYEl_Velfmp5hJLfk_64DhPno383JCQMu4x_QotipYNQie/s1600/IMG_9275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsLvmXqEdbpaJkflbghvNgo5H7doFEVkDWsZwoHpdzeGghzq7o5mVz_2xrrMPLd1tVBLXXUJBf93qi4DfYuh6AfilYfzLGeyYEl_Velfmp5hJLfk_64DhPno383JCQMu4x_QotipYNQie/s400/IMG_9275.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The temperate rainforest is pristine, trees adorned with layers and layers of mosses, the thick vegetation cover means the temperature plummets to a cool 18 degrees</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXj92RIM0m91kTshEPxyKgOei83vtXZh_GzNBvHf9_huGGB3f03xLbLxe-ItglxOFPE-0YBQGqVA6p73nXWPDwKyOapUaV2DN7y2iDC1XpZTczJK9RnqO7fSI8NIkTt7ZP2l5ZQLV4Wp77/s1600/IMG_9281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXj92RIM0m91kTshEPxyKgOei83vtXZh_GzNBvHf9_huGGB3f03xLbLxe-ItglxOFPE-0YBQGqVA6p73nXWPDwKyOapUaV2DN7y2iDC1XpZTczJK9RnqO7fSI8NIkTt7ZP2l5ZQLV4Wp77/s400/IMG_9281.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTp0RgI20Vw9Y_lOeicHPaaNcuR_b9zZeoAUxBL8GxCaKTM3Z6Y48SLKZAfXqGB5xR7TFquXlTbzgO7FYo4SrrsbTESgdxdIrSmhuDd49zo6JX7gCTgIk1QmTVHruJ842l_iCiUibaybE/s1600/IMG_9286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTp0RgI20Vw9Y_lOeicHPaaNcuR_b9zZeoAUxBL8GxCaKTM3Z6Y48SLKZAfXqGB5xR7TFquXlTbzgO7FYo4SrrsbTESgdxdIrSmhuDd49zo6JX7gCTgIk1QmTVHruJ842l_iCiUibaybE/s400/IMG_9286.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There are plenty of hidden waterfalls fed by clear andean mountain streams</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGfwVTBGxzhDhVAQKLLf61akRA8eDe05HuJSJS_jnUe-ASyvrhF1nJtolreqS7vMi5QDe02EV9ifoi4TUiPuRM8RV4AYowjHSLaofX10RPY4akTK10dOWJMkX0dJzmVeE65BjxwNwSo3B/s1600/IMG_9298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGfwVTBGxzhDhVAQKLLf61akRA8eDe05HuJSJS_jnUe-ASyvrhF1nJtolreqS7vMi5QDe02EV9ifoi4TUiPuRM8RV4AYowjHSLaofX10RPY4akTK10dOWJMkX0dJzmVeE65BjxwNwSo3B/s400/IMG_9298.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These mosses appeared to be stretching to find the light</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjEC3WUvHz5ytUm4evIKdJHTdlE5oyJPNeO7JvSQRuOxUK5QWprvufUcbn-F0Iw164C29DHnVOVCMy0ZAy5SIQTqSkw7fTvxsQYdRWTSBpvzreVYjL4OBWbe63ePVXcp9uK0JHePb2vi7H/s1600/IMG_9311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjEC3WUvHz5ytUm4evIKdJHTdlE5oyJPNeO7JvSQRuOxUK5QWprvufUcbn-F0Iw164C29DHnVOVCMy0ZAy5SIQTqSkw7fTvxsQYdRWTSBpvzreVYjL4OBWbe63ePVXcp9uK0JHePb2vi7H/s400/IMG_9311.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is a close relative of the national flower of Chile the rosea</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8vduMlSRHNzyVURcNsR5_b3N43CLhsvaZB2bcvlpChtgE6X1zCWrZWW-Hfb8EDdPBamAQOMSWsg-WyQW8uHzYY0djZGPVd56X9jINr5rcP6rA-BPZ12QEQGwrEmPfF5n5EI355Rah1AvK/s1600/IMG_9321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8vduMlSRHNzyVURcNsR5_b3N43CLhsvaZB2bcvlpChtgE6X1zCWrZWW-Hfb8EDdPBamAQOMSWsg-WyQW8uHzYY0djZGPVd56X9jINr5rcP6rA-BPZ12QEQGwrEmPfF5n5EI355Rah1AvK/s400/IMG_9321.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">More Alerce trees</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3I_8k7ppSe_imKcHbvZFiCoa6tL2l7hpvGfU7_fNmdHqLjYPbvUjcQRGunHSxVVU7NMy3THEK3djBZfScaFI3B4f2srwS3NqK_k1wKeN5B9Lj_i3aNOTIKmEOyoKz8Id2kcJ6QwNcOyI0/s1600/IMG_9327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3I_8k7ppSe_imKcHbvZFiCoa6tL2l7hpvGfU7_fNmdHqLjYPbvUjcQRGunHSxVVU7NMy3THEK3djBZfScaFI3B4f2srwS3NqK_k1wKeN5B9Lj_i3aNOTIKmEOyoKz8Id2kcJ6QwNcOyI0/s400/IMG_9327.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These ones are much older, maybe over 2000 years old</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjo3FC2HXLyY1RKJHcyTLJ3V-ZPQph6HmXKlQb8KAGoS8H7uWo4TgVQKCi0G69TQ2VsDaKoJO-thF8LJfHop0oT1M83QgAzEtEl4rNlftAMlRg3yuWbE1M4rQ6VJTcrtMiLNLTM70TQOHN/s1600/IMG_9351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjo3FC2HXLyY1RKJHcyTLJ3V-ZPQph6HmXKlQb8KAGoS8H7uWo4TgVQKCi0G69TQ2VsDaKoJO-thF8LJfHop0oT1M83QgAzEtEl4rNlftAMlRg3yuWbE1M4rQ6VJTcrtMiLNLTM70TQOHN/s400/IMG_9351.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZTZpKxiTWHORFRxUc2ubAiBw_RmatpE4P8KtW6-zBbvnDJF4Oy1bqfEDLNY5sGy1Hs_gzNyihSqigLFqzPrroaSz9HvW-i3A-ItJ35ZuXF8hrn6jXgPANW0y4qSY3yqANr1pMNKZqTgJ/s1600/IMG_9381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZTZpKxiTWHORFRxUc2ubAiBw_RmatpE4P8KtW6-zBbvnDJF4Oy1bqfEDLNY5sGy1Hs_gzNyihSqigLFqzPrroaSz9HvW-i3A-ItJ35ZuXF8hrn6jXgPANW0y4qSY3yqANr1pMNKZqTgJ/s400/IMG_9381.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nicholas serenading Chris after a hard day of exploring on the traditional Andean Charango, a 10 stringed lute with strings grouped into 5 pairs. A big thank you must go to Nicholas who was a wealth of knowledge on the volcano, the forest and almost everything else you could care to ask!</span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-66311598841493523772015-04-21T03:15:00.000+02:002015-04-21T03:15:27.597+02:00Croeso i Cymru - Welcome to Wales <div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">After an 18 hours bus trip north from El Chalten we were still within the northern reaches of Patagonia, just south of the Argentinian lake district. We stopped here for a very special visit so Chris could go and practice his Welsh in the small town of Trevelin. Settled by Welsh immigrants in the latter half of the 19</span><sup style="font-family: Helvetica;">th</sup><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">century who were escaping the persecution of Victorian Britain that was trying its hardest to eliminate the Welsh language and culture. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Large numbers of Welsh people settled on Patagonia’s eastern shores and valleys. By 1860 all good pasture land on the east had been settled, so they looked further inland for fertile valleys. The Mapuche Indians with whom they traded promised a rich fertile valley in the foothills of the Andes and so an expedition set out to find the promised land. The first Welsh families settled into Trevelin in the early 1860s and slowly turned the fertile valleys into rich pastures for crops and the surrounding hillside for grazing sheep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Trevelin translates as Mill Town. The mill was built in 1889 and has recently been refurbished as the region’s museum. We spent a fantastic few hours exploring the early history of the local tribes, the arrival of the Welsh and the agricultural and household displays. The chap in charge looked like a fiery welsh man, with red hair, blue eyes, a pasty complexion and bristling red moustache. He spoke a little welsh and his faltering English was delivered with a wonderful welsh lilt to his accent. He has family in Conway and has visited Wales once and is planning to go back. His Father and Grandfather have both been Director of the Trevelin choir (one Jones and one Williams obviously) and he sang with Gwyndaf Jones at last years local Eisteddfod.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Trevelin holds an annual Eisteddfod and has close ties with its counterpart in North Wales undertaking exchanges and sending performers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Unfortunately most of the rest of the town’s attraction were closed down for the off season, so we missed out on a Welsh tea at Nain Maggies (Grandma Maggies) but we did manage to visit the old Chapel Bethal and see the Welsh language school.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Diolch yn fawr Trevelin.</span></div>
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The sign outside the Trevelin tourist office</div>
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Their emblem combines the blue and white flag with yellow sun of Argentina, the pointy yellow mountains of the flag of Patagonia, the sheep, the crops and of course the red dragon</div>
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Unfortunately closed this morning</div>
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Passion for traditions and culture are very strong in this valley</div>
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A young Welsh goucho and his Mapuche Indian friend - drinking matte together is a sign of friendship - a culture that thrives still throughout South America</div>
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Had some great stuff in the old Mill Museum - Fordson tractor</div>
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Case steam engine</div>
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Used to drive the thresher on the right</div>
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The hills and valleys of a new home from home in the 1860s</div>
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Local artwork</div>
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The restored Mill museum</div>
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A picnic lunch at Capel Bethel where we were shown around by an old gentleman who also works at the language school teaching the next generation Welsh and keeping the language, culture and traditions alive in this small outpost in the Andean foothills</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348204065983138841noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-200957874177146764.post-24037795040115828072015-04-19T22:19:00.000+02:002015-04-19T22:19:23.214+02:00Travelling through Patagonia<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many prolific words have already been written about the allure of
Patagonia. For hundreds of years it has drawn men and women to its barren, bold
beauty. Travellers from Darwin onwards have noted how the bleakness seizes the
imagination. It is a harsh place, battered by winds and snows, scorched by the
sun, carved and shaped by ice and smothered in glacial deposits and volcanic
debris. Oh, and its huge, seemingly endless as you sit looking through the bus
window for hour after hour, day after day gazing at the same landscape of flat
arid steppe with sedimentary hills and distant blue mountains topped with
cloud.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Patagonia’s dimensions are not exact, it exists on maps and charts
and in books but has no absolute boundaries and multiple definitions. Some say
south from the Rio Negro others say from the Rio Colorado. Either way it covers
over one million square kilometres, most of them taken up by a coarse grassy
shrub. At higher altitudes rainfall is more abundant and there are forests of
sub-antarctic beech, rich soils full of wild flowers and huge lakes fed by silt
rich glacial rivers. But higher still it is just a world of rock and ice, cold,
harsh and desolate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The view from the bus window changes little over hundreds of
kilometres. In the small towns, squat single storey houses with small windows
and flat or tinned roofs. Only the main streets are paved, streets branching
off are dirt roads. Old farm machinery and horse-drawn carts displayed on
verges. Barren, wide open spaces stretching out like a film background on
repeated loop, the monotony is endless. Grey soil with round grey pebbles,
dotted with small grey bushes and hummocks of straw yellow grasses, which blend
into a yellowy-grey dusting upon the distant hills. Occasionally a feature
appears to catch your eye, often the sun-bleached bones of an ex-cow litters
the dust-laden road side. Poplars often denote an abandoned farmstead, slowly
crumbling back into the plains.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Despite the conditions life survives, wild guanacos, ancestor of the
llama and alpaca, roam the steppe, along with hare and rabbit. These are all
prey for the puma that rules the Andes, followed by the grey and red foxes. The
bird life is prolific from geese, ducks and flamingos to parakeets, eagles and
the enormous Andean Condor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">As stated by Bruce Chatwin, In Patagonia, “the isolation makes it
easy to exaggerate the person you are: the drinker drinks; the devout prays;
the lonely grows lonelier, sometime fatally! … Patagonia is the farthest place
to which man walked from his place of origins. It is therefore a symbol of his restlessness.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Despite the harshness it is a truly beautiful and unspoilt place.
There are dozens of national parks, reserves and wilderness areas. There are
still unexplored regions, two huge icecaps, thousands of glaciers and a
seemingly endless coastline of fjords, islands and inlets. I think we’ll be
back for more!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The endless flat steppe plains</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2Kz7_r0kWr8RhwviTAB_gTVJiodUy6ApF9fowh9CixDZtgA9xsET55oAhdtUxaYItA-4VyBJZHvcV23ZcG9jiR6YSyRPvj_lbkfkQBxu9ZVmhpGpRYPKh30lR6Pw2CICfrAVmsMC-grQ/s1600/IMG_8190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2Kz7_r0kWr8RhwviTAB_gTVJiodUy6ApF9fowh9CixDZtgA9xsET55oAhdtUxaYItA-4VyBJZHvcV23ZcG9jiR6YSyRPvj_lbkfkQBxu9ZVmhpGpRYPKh30lR6Pw2CICfrAVmsMC-grQ/s1600/IMG_8190.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Only broken by rivers, lakes and the sea to the east</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2SgW2JX3GjaSxDBXLfmP6vvYztqBGJULgcZ_SB16YNnsJpwn8m_djQwzP3z4HNp7kkgT4SrqyuanRO3kx1LXPiqlgLUT_AoH4Hi2EgK1_2oJjVoqsNj10i5jL9rQnCSDPUm7DG6Qb_7Ei/s1600/IMG_8191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2SgW2JX3GjaSxDBXLfmP6vvYztqBGJULgcZ_SB16YNnsJpwn8m_djQwzP3z4HNp7kkgT4SrqyuanRO3kx1LXPiqlgLUT_AoH4Hi2EgK1_2oJjVoqsNj10i5jL9rQnCSDPUm7DG6Qb_7Ei/s1600/IMG_8191.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">...and the mountains to the west</span></div>
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<br />
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