Tuesday, 11 March 2014

Journey To Freedom Part 1 - Background to Thai Elephant Decline


A few folks, Miss Kat in particular, asked me to write down a summary of what I picked up over our week together and what Lek explained to me about the Elephant Nature Park, the history of elephant use in Thailand and Lek's answers to some of our questions. I've tried my best to remember all the facts but I'd had a couple of Chang most nights so please don't expect this to be 100% accurate!

I'm afraid it's a very sad story, but if we can spread the news about the elephants’ plight and get more supporters there is a chance it will have a happy ending. There is a lot of information so we've broken it down over a number of blog posts. So here goes, part 1.

Part 1. The background to the Thai elephant decline

Long ago the Karen tribe (also called Pa-ka-your tribe) saw the elephants as part of their respective family and treated them as a sacred animal. They worked with their elephants to undertake logging in the forests and cared for them, actually thanking them every day for their work and blessing them in special ceremonies. The skills used to be a mahout were passed on from generation to generation, as were the elephants and their offspring. Although only men were allowed to become mahouts. The elephants worked and fed in the forests close to the villages and so the mahouts and their sons saw them every day.

In Thailand elephants were respected, venerated and protected. They were a national symbol of pride and strength and even appeared on the national flag. Then the Second World War arrived and the elephants along with their mahouts were used by the invading Japanese to pull and carry equipment, clear forest and build railways. Many died or were taken away to neighbouring countries.

The surviving elephants and their mahouts returned to their Karen villages at the end of the war. They returned to logging and their original way of life in the forests.

Then in 1989 Thailand banned logging. This happened for three main reasons.
1. As the demand for hardwoods increased following population growth and the new-rich middle classes in China the mahouts and elephants were forced to work longer hours. The Karen had complained to the logging companies explaining that the elephants were being overworked and demanded a reduction in daily hours.

2. There were significant international animal-rights pressure on Thailand. During the logging activities and sometimes using elephants, hunting parties would go out to trap animals to illegally export alive or for their bones/teeth/horns/ tusks/skin which had a black market value. Many large containers had been found containing live snakes, monkeys, gibbons etc at international airports and so the Thai government had been warned that unless this stopped international sanctions would be placed on Thailand. This would have been a huge problem for Thailand's commercial and tourist businesses. (Thailand is now recognised by animal right activists as the 'hub' for the very same illegal animal trades from for example Africa and India on their way to China and Japan).

3. In 1988 there were large floods in the south of Thailand killing thousands of people and the deforestation for agricultural expansion and timber was seen as a factor contributing to the floods. This was because when the trees were removed the topsoil washed away and so could no longer soak up excessive ran, this led to the rain streaming straight of the hills and causing the floods.

So after Thailand banned logging in 1989 the Karen mahouts and their elephants returned to their villages without any work. This was a very difficult time for the Karen people as they received no government support. Some mahouts could not provide enough food to feed their elephants and so were forced to sell them. This broke the connection between the mahout and the elephant. The new elephant owners only saw them as a commodity, a tool to do a job such as illegal logging in Burma or as tourist attractions.

Elephants undertaking illegal logging in Burma were in much more danger than previously. Many were mortality wounded by landmines, or were wounded terribly and forced into street begging. Inexperience mahouts treated the elephants cruelly. Some elephants were purposefully blinded to make them easier to handle.

Then the Karen people were told by some government employees that they could return to logging. These people are simple farmers and so did not realise that this was a trap. When they returned to logging the mahouts and the elephants were both arrested. There was no help or defence provided for the mahouts so they went to jail. The elephants were sold by corrupt government officials to other countries, to circuses, to poachers for their ivory and to trekking camps.

In 1987 Thailand held a country-wide campaign to promote the tourist trade. After that numerous elephant trekking camps sprung up. The remaining mahouts with elephants took their elephants to these camps. The camps were eight or more days walk from their villages. The mahouts were now far away from their families and unable to help on the farm. The trekking companies said that the mahouts could leave the elephants with them for a long-term rent and they would assign new mahouts. Many mahouts signed such contracts and were given payments in advance and so left their elephants at the trekking camps. I was told the mahout receives today 300baht a month for leasing out his elephant to a trekking camp. The trekking camp owners saw the elephants as commercial tools. Some of the new mahouts were not really mahouts at all and hence were not experienced in elephant care or welfare. So many of the elephants died. No compensation was given to the Karen mahout. In addition, the bond between the elephant and the successive generations of mahouts was broken. So the Karen culture of caring and nurturing the elephants was not being passed on, the younger generators were forgetting the true importance of respecting the elephant.

Some elephants also became street beggars. This has now been banned in Bangkok and Chang Mai, but it still continues in other tourist areas. Elephants do not like loud noises, such a cars or crowded streets. Touting elephants up to bars late at night meant many came across drunk people who would force them to drink alcohol, burnt them with cigarettes or shined lasers into their eyes. Many elephants were hit by vehicles and some died from the injuries. The owners worked them at every opportunity and they died from mistreatment and starvation. Even more upsettingly a trend towards using baby elephants has now grown, and it is strongly expected that these are captured from the wild in Burma and smuggled into Thailand.

Elephants involved in street begging and trekking are not in their natural habitat (forest). Due to over work in the hot sun, lack of health care and mistreatment they become sick, in pain, and commonly depressed and mentally unstable. This means that they have no interest in reproducing. Forced breading programmes have not been successful. Male bull elephants in musk are full of testosterone and very violent. The female elephants are often tethered with their legs apart to receive the male. The forced breading often results in major injuries to the female, including broken legs, and hips and sometimes death.

We were told how pregnant mothers were used by the trekking camps right through their gestation period. As they worked long hours in the hot sun and wore a saddle the baby could not turn in the mothers stomach. This leads to many still born births. Furthermore, many reports were received of trekking camp mothers killing her baby. They say they don't know why but I personally believe that it could have been because they were depressed and didn't want their child to have the same life as them.

Sangudan 'Lek' Challert recognised this terrible picture of elephant decline and Karen people losing their cultural knowledge and bond with the few remaining elephants. Lek spoke with the Karen people and they asked her to help them. After conducting research and speaking to many Karen tribes she decided to form the 'Journey to Freedom' volunteer programme. 


For miles surrounding every Karen village huge swathes of forest have disappeared due to agriculture and timber logging

Some primary forest still remains on the highest and steepest slopes



Monday, 10 March 2014

Elephant Volunteering - Introduction


We decided to volunteer for a week with the Elephant Nature Park (www.elphantnaturepark.org).

It stands apart from the many elephant camps around Chang Mai as it is specifically set up to help elephants as a centre for conservation. The founder and director Mrs Sangduen 'Lek' Chailert has won numerous conservation awards including Hero of Asia by Time magazine and is a crusader for elephant welfare.

In Thailand, as in many other countries elephants have been used for trekking, riding, circus shows, street begging, painting shows and other tourist sport attractions such as football and polo. The elephants used for this have either been captured and smuggled from the wild or nature reserves (Thailand or Burma most commonly) or were previously logging elephants until the national ban on logging. Registration of the elephants is very poor. The 'domestic' elephants are the private property of their owner who can do with it as they choose. There are no laws to prevent cruelty or ensure proper care of the elephants as they are still classified as draft animals under Thailand's 1939 Draft Animals Act.

Added to this, as now well published, is the continued high rate of poaching of elephants from the wild and reserves for their ivory, teeth and bones which are prized as status symbol carved ornaments and as talismans. Their ears are often removed along with their tail as people think they will protect them from black magic. It is estimated by some that worldwide the elephant population may be extinct in 30-40 years.

This is a vast topic, and if you want to know more 'the Elephant Voice' is a good source that is updated frequently and speaks out about the plight of Asian elephants. www.theelephants.org

We chose to support a program run by the Elephant Nature Park called 'Journey to Freedom', which was one of the more final steps of their vision to enable a few very lucky elephants to return to their natural environment - the strips of remaining forests in Northern Thailand.

Over the next few posts we will do our best to explain our volunteer activities over the week and their context in the overall ENP strategy. As well as supporting a very worthy cause we made long lasting friendships with our fellow volunteers and learnt an unexpected amount about the countries they came from. 


Dawn breaks over our Karen Tribe village 7 hours north of Chang Mai


Deforestation is a huge problem, land is cleared to grow crops, this leads to landslides in the wet season, wildlife is diminished as is the natural food for elephants

There are no roads here just dirt tracks - dust bowls in the dry season and impassable in the wet

A mother and her twins who we met, owned by one of the Karen people

A cheeky seven year old male who we bring banana palms for extra nutrition

Bananas are also a favourite of an elephant at the Nature Park



Thursday, 6 March 2014

New Friendships

Back on the Thai mainland we were collected from the jetty by our new friend Lilly and her daughter Ai. We'd met them in the swimming pool at our hotel in Ranong where we stopped overnight after exiting Burma. Sarah had helped Lilly to improve her swimming and shown her how to do the breast stroke and to thank us Lilly had taken us for some breakfast Roti (pancakes) and given us a lift to the jetty to catch the morning ferry to Koh Phyayam. She insisted that we call her on our return to Ranong and we duly did so. 

Lilly lived in the hills above Ranong were she manages a rubber tree plantation. She very kindly offered to put us up for the night in her charming wooden stilted house situated amongst the rubber trees. It was a beautiful setting and very peaceful. 

We all shared a fantastic Thai meal at a place in town. Lilly wanted to make sure we were very well fed! That night from our bed we watched the workers tap the rubber trees, using a torch to guide them in the darkness. They worked from about 10pm to 6am. Each tree was cut diagonally across the trunk and the rubber oozed out to be collected in a small half coconut cup. Later in the night the harvested rubber was collected from each tree. 

After a hearty large breakfast of ham and cheese roti Lilly and Ai dropped us at the airport and waved us off as we departed. It was sad to say goodbye as although our friendship had been short the kindness and warmth we were shown was very touching. 


Sarah and Lilly in her front room

Us with Ai, Lilly's daughter

Lilly's beautiful stilted house amongst her rubber plantation that was set up by her grandmother

Chris and Ai play with the puppies that are only a few weeks old and live underneath the house

Our farewell to a wonderful hostess


Pass The Nuts


We've enjoyed many a cashew nut nibble, salted or honey sweet, over the years. But why are they are so expensive compared to a peanut? On Koh Phayam we found out. The cashew nut, Kayoo in Thai, is hand picked and manually processed during the various stages to get the nut from the tree to the shop shelves.

Koh Phayam island is covered in cashew nut trees, with families each harvesting their land. Our time here coincided with the cashew harvest. This meant that during day and night you were continuously bombarded by falling cashew apples all across the island. They landed on the corrugated tin roof at night and took potshots at you during the day on your motorbike as you drive along the islands narrow tracks. Many locals and tourists had tales to tell of their cashew injuries. The British naturally stood their ground under the bombardment, as for the French.....well.......!!

I'm sure that there is a more comprehensive process flow in more advanced communities but this is what we saw happen. Only matured nuts from fully-grown apple were harvested. When the apples fall from the tree the nuts are ripe and ready for collection. The nut is broken off from the bottom of the cashew apple.

The cashew apple is a soft fruit, rich in nutrients, and contains five times more vitamin C than an orange. Throughout cashew nut producing countries the apple is eaten fresh, cooked in curries, or fermented into vinegar, as well as brandy. However in Koh Phayam the apple is hardly used at all in cooking, let alone the production of alcohol, which seems a shame!

After harvesting, the nuts are immediately sun dried on a tarpaulin sheet on hard ground. Uniform drying can be achieved by regularly turning the nuts over to prevent partial drying. Freshly harvested nuts normally require three days of sun drying.

The raw cashew nuts, now sun dried, are then steamed for about 30 minutes. The cooking time varies depending upon the conditions of the cashew nut and atmospheric conditions. The steaming expands the outer husk and softens the nuts due to penetration of steam into the husk.

After steaming, the nuts are air-cured by spreading out on the floor in the shade. These ultimately harden the shell and make it fit enough for de-husking in the manually operated cutting machine. The husks are removed as they are toxic.

Et voila, there's your cashew nut. It's pretty waxy and bland at this stage so they are often roasted or lightly fried in Koh Phyayam with salt and chilli to make a perfect appetiser or added to stir fry, curries and salads.



A cashew apple with its nut dangling below ripens on one of the thousands of trees which cover the island

Once the fruit has fallen the locals harvest the nut and levee the apple on the ground. Everywhere you go the smell of fermenting apples hangs thick in the air like a Somerset cider festival

The nuts are dried in the sun and turned regularly

Once steamed the toxic husk is removed using this hand tool before bagging the nuts

The island's cashew nut festival coincided with our time here

Bagged nuts for sale direct from the Koh Phayam Farmers Wives Group

Our accommodation was called Baan San Kayoo, the home of the cashew nut, and the walls of the kitchen were adorned with pictures of the family's prize crop



Monday, 3 March 2014

Ko Phayam


We came to Ko Phayam for a couple of days and stayed for a fortnight. We could have easily stayed longer if we hadn't already made arrangements to volunteer in the north of Thailand.

Ko Phayam island is shaped like a kangaroo with a joey poking out of her pouch. The island is a 45 minute speed boat ride from Ranong. It has a few small jungle topped rises and is covered in cashew nut trees, with the occasional rubber tree grove. It is underdeveloped (for now) and a motorbike or bicycle is essential for travel around the island as there are no roads large enough for cars.

We settled at the furthest guest house from the pier on a beach called Ao Yai (Long Beach). It was a 3km sandy stretch that gently slopes to the sea. Our place was called Baan San Kayoo, which roughly translates as Home of the Cashew Nut. It was a basic bamboo hut, with electricity from 6.30pm to 11pm and cold water which occasionally had enough pressure to reach our bathroom.

After being on the move everyday in Burma it was relaxing to take it easy and have a place to call home for a while. Chris brought a bright yellow hammock and we put it up on the veranda. Our hut is nestled amongst the cashew nut trees, and we often have a Hornbill feeding nearby or spot squirrels in the trees. The pride of our place is our resident frog and three large geckos. It's lovely to see them everyday and study their behaviour.

We've read a few books and snorkelled most days. Today I've mostly been sitting under the mosquito net, reading George Orwell's Burmese Days and shelling sunflower seeds to extract the pip. Yes, only a few weeks ago we were aghast at the passengers, like parrots, devouring their morsels on the Arreywaddy Boat and now I've become one!

The snorkelling on Ao Yai beach is pretty good, when you catch the tide coming in it's quite good visibility. One day, just before the full moon high tide we went out during the late afternoon and saw three Lion Fish. They were absolutely beautiful and mesmerising to observe.

We have met a great crowd of folks; many are staying for a few months to get away from their winter. Ricky, Hans and Summer were excellent drinking buddies along with Carin, Kriss, Mark and Tracey at Geir's bar! Every few days one of the bars has a party with live music around a theme, such as Valentines or Rock "n Roll. Everyone turns up - children, shop owners, Thai locals, old hippies ex pats, well to do middle-aged French tourists and joins in the dancing. It's a top atmosphere and very welcoming.

Chris has become an excellent motorbike rider, with me hanging on the back for dear life! We often visit one of the other two beaches, or the high street next to the pier to find some lunch or take a swim. Some nights we went for dinner with our neighbour Rob, a Canadian who had visited the island once before. Rob was a great laugh, an incessant talker who became a good friend during our stay.

Our home from home, one hundred metres from the beach tucked into the jungle

 Our new back garden

3km of beach to ourselves at Ao Yai

Our resident hornbill who visited most days


Two of our other room mates

 Our house sitter, we worked in shifts, he looked after the place during the day and us at night

Sunset at our secret cove


The fantastic shipwreck look of the Hippy Bar at Buffalo Bay to the north of the island

Snorkelling off the northern tip of Ko Phayam

One of 3 Lion Fish we spotted whilst snorkelling off Ao Yai beach

.......and relax!